2023 Forscan Issues

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Syberspace

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I thought about doing this but am on the fence if the standard auto high beams are good enough. Have you had a chance to test it out?
It is worth it. It is almost transparent when it happens and you don't get that high low jump. The best part is, you get to see more even if there are oncoming cars, as it will still stay on highbeam for the other light not hitting the oncoming car. If you get behind someone, they both go to low. It is very subtle and basically fades to high and low. I forget they are on most of the time.
 

northlaker

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I have a question on adjusting DRL to max brightness, in Livnitups spreadsheet it says "set at about 60% (3C hex) thru 75% (4B hex) use lowest value you can before flickering appears"....I'm no hex expert but does that mean 3C is brightest and 4B would be less? Trying to make sure I set mine at max brightness, I want them to see me coming.
 

swoop1156

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Truck also has to be in drive.
Truck does not have to be in drive, that's wrong information. Every time I pull out of my garage, as soon as I start, the lights come on and it shows up in park, because, the lights are on.
I thought about doing this but am on the fence if the standard auto high beams are good enough. Have you had a chance to test it out?
There's multiple threads dedicated to this process and in short - yes, it's the best free mod one can do.
I have a question on adjusting DRL to max brightness, in Livnitups spreadsheet it says "set at about 60% (3C hex) thru 75% (4B hex) use lowest value you can before flickering appears"....I'm no hex expert but does that mean 3C is brightest and 4B would be less? Trying to make sure I set mine at max brightness, I want them to see me coming.
There's multiple threads dedicated to this process and how it works. If 60% brightness and 3C and 75% is 4B, how could 3C be the brightest and 4B less? 75>60. Flickering sucks, and if you think you need brighter DRL's, that's wild. Mine are factory and definitely bright. Note that this setting doesn't change the marker lights - just the headlight amber surround.
 
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cfmistry

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I have not driven in the dark enough to comment on it, but I've had ILS on other cars and it is a very impressive difference. On those vehicles I paid a lot of money for it - it's nice that it was nearly free on this one.
 

laramie1pt8t

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There's multiple threads dedicated to this process and in short - yes, it's the best free mod one can do.
Swoop, since the programming is 9 steps, does it matter what sequence you follow or can you go out of order? Just curious if this is the reason people are seeing errors?
 

swoop1156

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Swoop, since the programming is 9 steps, does it matter what sequence you follow or can you go out of order? Just curious if this is the reason people are seeing errors?
When I did mine, I followed the steps, reset the APM (I think, recalling from memory) in the middle as specified, and continued on. Reaching into my technical background, changes to code aren't reliant upon each other to function while making the changes, but until you get to the end and click that final "write", it may give a ton of errors because it's trying to do a thing that cannot be accomplished. You're writing to individual banks of memory, 'chips', whatever you want to call them. They all do a certain function. Changing them individually and then they work in unison together once the final result is completed.

I've long thought that the most simplistic way to do this for someone who is not experienced in FORScan, code, Hex, etc, is for someone that has completed this modification successfully to upload (I could even do it and have suggested it in the past for other modifications to both the Raptor and the Mustang) what I call "known good" ABD values that work correctly in my truck, for instance, and simply replace yours with mine. Would recommend having either exact build or similar build values, though being the Raptor only comes with one style of headlight - I'd venture a guess that those would all be the same no matter the other options.
 

laramie1pt8t

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When I did mine, I followed the steps, reset the APM (I think, recalling from memory) in the middle as specified, and continued on. Reaching into my technical background, changes to code aren't reliant upon each other to function while making the changes, but until you get to the end and click that final "write", it may give a ton of errors because it's trying to do a thing that cannot be accomplished. You're writing to individual banks of memory, 'chips', whatever you want to call them. They all do a certain function. Changing them individually and then they work in unison together once the final result is completed.

I've long thought that the most simplistic way to do this for someone who is not experienced in FORScan, code, Hex, etc, is for someone that has completed this modification successfully to upload (I could even do it and have suggested it in the past for other modifications to both the Raptor and the Mustang) what I call "known good" ABD values that work correctly in my truck, for instance, and simply replace yours with mine. Would recommend having either exact build or similar build values, though being the Raptor only comes with one style of headlight - I'd venture a guess that those would all be the same no matter the other options.
I am pretty tech savvy, i used to use Vagcom for VWs/Audi's. It's really the same thing. I am going to attempt the Glare Free this weekend but your suggestion of swapping saved files is a good one!
 
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