2013 hard shift 3rd to 4th and 4 to 5th. Grinding noise heard as well

[kidkotic2001]

I have a 2013 Ford Raptor, recently started to hear like if something is loose on the front end. I figured it was the locking actuator and did a full test the passenger side was bad. I replaced that, and just to make sure I also replaced the vacuum tubes and solenoid. Everything was good until recently were I started to notice the noise again, and now it is jumping/halting when it shifts from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th. Does not happen all the time but when it does it feels like my entire transmission is just going to jump out of the truck.

I am going to replace the driver side locking actuator this weekend to see if that could be an issue not sure what else. I do have a cheap bluedriver code reader and I did have a code p184A that is the transfer motor. But I have not driven it in 4h, 4L, will be replacing that too. Just not right now unless it could be an issue.

Truck has 108k anyone having something similar or how to T/S further before going to the dealer.

 

[FordTechOne]

There is a specific procedure that needs to be followed when replacing an IWE (locking hub). The IWE must be compressed fully and capped before installation, and the depth of the threaded shaft must be verified to be at least 15.5mm from the inside of the hub. If those procedures weren’t followed, the IWE may exhibit a repeat failure and grinding noise.

DTC P184A indicates that the transfer case shift motor position has not been reached after the maximum number of allowed blocked shift attempts between 2H and 4H or 4H to 2H. Diagnostics instruct to remove the t-case shift motor and observe the motor position while switching between 2H and 4H. If the motor rotates, the t-case should be manually shifted between ranges to check for binding/damage. If the motor doesn’t rotate, the circuits between the TCCM and motor need to be verified.

 

[kidkotic2001]

There is a specific procedure that needs to be followed when replacing an IWE (locking hub). The IWE must be compressed fully and capped before installation, and the depth of the threaded shaft must be verified to be at least 15.5mm from the inside of the hub. If those procedures weren’t followed, the IWE may exhibit a repeat failure and grinding noise.

DTC P184A indicates that the transfer case shift motor position has not been reached after the maximum number of allowed blocked shift attempts between 2H and 4H or 4H to 2H. Diagnostics instruct to remove the t-case shift motor and observe the motor position while switching between 2H and 4H. If the motor rotates, the t-case should be manually shifted between ranges to check for binding/damage. If the motor doesn’t rotate, the circuits between the TCCM and motor need to be verified.

Okay so I might not have done the compressed portion, the DIY that I Followed did not mention that. I guess I have to compress it then make sure it is in place? When I replaced the locking hub I made sure that the bolt was out at least 15.5mm that I did check, I also tighten the nut and did a few turns I also compressed it to make sure it was engaging and then not. It seemed to be good to go. I will have to go back and see about compressing the hub and reinstalling it.

Do you think that is why my 4th and 5th gears are jumping/halting? I hope so I dont want to see how much a transmission for this beast is. LOL

 

[FordTechOne]

Okay so I might not have done the compressed portion, the DIY that I Followed did not mention that. I guess I have to compress it then make sure it is in place? When I replaced the locking hub I made sure that the bolt was out at least 15.5mm that I did check, I also tighten the nut and did a few turns I also compressed it to make sure it was engaging and then not. It seemed to be good to go. I will have to go back and see about compressing the hub and reinstalling it.

Do you think that is why my 4th and 5th gears are jumping/halting? I hope so I dont want to see how much a transmission for this beast is. LOL

It almost sounds like it’s stuck in 4WD; the DTC indicates that it’s trying to shift but can’t complete. So if the mode selector is in 2WD, it would seem its trying repeatedly to shift from 4WD to 2WD unsuccessfully. I would start with the 4WD issue before going after the shift concerns, the harsh shifting may be the result of a transfer case issue.

 

[kidkotic2001]

It almost sounds like it’s stuck in 4WD; the DTC indicates that it’s trying to shift but can’t complete. So if the mode selector is in 2WD, it would seem its trying repeatedly to shift from 4WD to 2WD unsuccessfully. I would start with the 4WD issue before going after the shift concerns, the harsh shifting may be the result of a transfer case issue.

Okay I will start with that, "Diagnostics instruct to remove the t-case shift motor and observe the motor position while switching between 2H and 4H. If the motor rotates, the t-case should be manually shifted between ranges to check for binding/damage. If the motor doesn’t rotate, the circuits between the TCCM and motor need to be verified." when you say observe you are saying remove the tcase shift motor and the have someone turn the knob to 4h to 2H to see if it moves right? If it moves then I need to see if the Tcase moves manually with a socket wrench?

 

[FordTechOne]

Okay I will start with that, "Diagnostics instruct to remove the t-case shift motor and observe the motor position while switching between 2H and 4H. If the motor rotates, the t-case should be manually shifted between ranges to check for binding/damage. If the motor doesn’t rotate, the circuits between the TCCM and motor need to be verified." when you say observe you are saying remove the tcase shift motor and the have someone turn the knob to 4h to 2H to see if it moves right? If it moves then I need to see if the Tcase moves manually with a socket wrench?

Correct. Workshop Manual states to use a wrench to manually rotate the shift cam. You can also check the front driveshaft, it should spin freely in 2WD with the IWEs disengaged (engine running.

 

[Kirkw]

Could be two problems. Search transmission hard shift in the forum for lead frame grounding. For the 2h to 4h It's likely an internal plastic comb that aids in the shift process that fails. Been there done both. The latter issue provides some evil sounds and clunks.

 

[kidkotic2001]

Okay, so yesterday after work I did some T/S, Tcase shifts fine I think I remember the one time it did that crazy noise and asked me to move forward. Yesterday I did often in a dirt road. I could not hear the noise when in 4h, . I replaced the driver side hub lock, I will be replacing the driver side. I am pretty sure or hope that will stop the grinding noise. The other issue if it jumping/stalling when going form 3rd to 4th and sometimes 4th to 5th I did a little more searching @Kirkw That may be my issue I will probably take that to the dealer and let them know. I did have the recall done a while back and I did notice the jump after that. Hoping they will replace the lead wiring and that will stop it or at least help it.

 

[kidkotic2001]

So i just got back from vacation and as I was getting of the plane ford dealership called. Said I need new transmission. Apparently there are shavings and oil
Is thick. I asked if the lead frame was an issue and service rep said no. He said no, crazy cuz I do the proper maintenance at dealership when they recomend it. I'm out of warranty with 108k miles
invoice
Labor 13 hours @ 149.95 TOTAL 1,949.35
TRANSMISSION 3,372.00
SHOPSUPPLIES 50.00
Taxes 278.19
Total 5,649.54

That is crazy money not sure what next steps I will take maybe take it to a transmission shop to see if it is less. I'm a little frustrated I kept up with maintenance and this still happened. I asked service dude to see if he could help
Me out with discount but he said no. Lol. I don't know if I get new or remanufactured will the truck be the same? I have heard that after a trans swap trucks are never the same.
What do you all think I should do.

 

[FordTechOne]

So i just got back from vacation and as I was getting of the plane ford dealership called. Said I need new transmission. Apparently there are shavings and oil
Is thick. I asked if the lead frame was an issue and service rep said no. He said no, crazy cuz I do the proper maintenance at dealership when they recomend it. I'm out of warranty with 108k miles
invoice
Labor 13 hours @ 149.95 TOTAL 1,949.35
TRANSMISSION 3,372.00
SHOPSUPPLIES 50.00
Taxes 278.19
Total 5,649.54

That is crazy money not sure what next steps I will take maybe take it to a transmission shop to see if it is less. I'm a little frustrated I kept up with maintenance and this still happened. I asked service dude to see if he could help
Me out with discount but he said no. Lol. I don't know if I get new or remanufactured will the truck be the same? I have heard that after a trans swap trucks are never the same.
What do you all think I should do.

Those numbers do not add up. The book time to R&I the transmission is 6.6 hours, not 13. That's warranty time, so if they charged 8 hours since it's an older vehicle, that would at least be within reason. 13 hours is not even close to being legitimate.

Finding metal in the transmission fluid does not condemn the transmission; these units are fully serviceable at the dealer level. Root cause could be as simple as a failed planetary, which would require replacement of the affected component, inspection/cleaning of the remaining components, flushing the trans cooler/lines, and a new torque converter. Not a $3400 replacement transmission.