What heater hose is behind the blower? The intercooler lines are back there but the two heater lines run into the firewall and they’re dry, I think it’s where the heater line comes down under the blower into the block in the front
Just looked at it with a fresh set of eyes this morning, there looks to be coolant sitting in the valley, think it’s where the heater hose that was lengthened goes into the block is where it’s leaking, not looking forward to having to disassemble to see how to tighten it up
I just started mine up yesterday on the lift with my new tune from JDM, it idles smooth and A/F ratios are all good, trying to find a mystery coolant leak tho. Its coming down from the back of the motor from what looks like inside the bellhousing, then dripping out where the oil pan meets the...
I just marked the chains (actually I dint even do that, I just lined up the other colored link with the timing marks when I put it back together), no need to remove the rocker arms. One of my cams did turn a little while the chains was off, there must have been pressure on a spring and it...
Yeah I didn't want to drop the oil pan either, there are 2 bolts that hold the oil pickup tube to the bottom of the pump like in the link for the mustang, just like they say it can be tricky to reach them and if you drop it in the pan it's gonna be almost impossible to get back out. I saw some...
Just did mine a couple weeks ago on a 6.2, working on my whipple install now. I used the service manual I bought to get all the torque specs and prodecure ford recommends, here is a link to some mustang guys doing it on a 5.0...
I'm installing a digital boost pressure sensor for my whipple to use with my aeroforce interceptor gauge. I need to power it from a 12V key swithed power supply. In the under hood fuse box which fuses would work with that, meaning they get constant 12V power while the key is in the on position...
I finished up my install of the oil pump gears and just dropped the intercooler in today. Looking back really wished I had painted my valve covers and gotten the whipple in the same color, would look sharp
damn I was looking for a set of those, I just got the plastic valve covers back on today after doing the oil pump gear, don't feel like taking them back off in the near future. Still chipping away at my whipple install
Nice, I started working on mine in my spare time a couple weeks ago, got my kooks headers and exhaust installed, I was torn because I've used American Racing Headers in the past and they're down the road from me, but I liked the true dual and rear exit setup from kooks. I started on the...
Having someone else pull on it while I heated it with a propane torch did the trick, there was no way this was coming out without heat, it was seized in there good.
On the plus side, if I do have to drop the pan, it'll make it a little easier when I install my new oil pump gear which is the next step in this project. Dropping the pan isn't necessary, but I won't have to worry about dropping something into the pan while I have the front of the engine opened up.
I know, just don't want to have to drop the oil pan to get it out if it breaks too low, trying every other option to get it out first. I'm at 60,000 miles so its a little rust down there. Gonna give it another round of pb blaster, wire brush and pick around where it goes into the block to try to...
I’ve read that and all of it is going smoothe, just can’t get the dipstick tune out, just need to get it out so I can get the header in. I didn’t need to remove it to get the manifold out, but I need to go get the flange of the header against the motor. It’s just stuck in there really good
I know I'm reviving a dead thread, but I have to say the thing giving me the hardest time with this install is getting the damn dipstick tube out, trying not to break it. I've got the drivers side installed, engine raised, motor mount unbolted, manifold out, studs out, just need to get this damn...
I have the part number, I've ordered from a few places, and all of them after a few hours email me saying it was a mistake and they don't have them in stock, they are on backorder and have no expected date that they will be back in stock. I've tried Rockauto, Tasca, and a couple others
Thanks, good to know, I'll put the bolt back in the steering(it was too rusted to separate anyway) and now I'll take out the drivers side mount. I also took your advice and ordered a set of Torx sockets that should be here tomorrow and am going to try that method for the nuts that I can't quite...
Does anyone know where I can buy new oem fox shocks. Mine need rebuilding, I don’t want to have downtime or do a exchange, I figured I’d get one new set, change then in, then get my current ones rebuilt for when I have to change again. I tried ordering from Tasha auto parts and they just emailed...
I know I'm resurrecting a dead thread, but to be clear you guys unbolted the passenger and driver side engine mount (the instructions only mention the passenger side, but I'm seeing it won't raise too much while still attached on the drivers side)? And completely removed the passenger side. Did...
I know this is late, but I know some people from LI Needs a Dragstrip have used https://www.streetimagewraps.com/vehicle-wraps and they currently have some cars a SEMA they wrapped. They're out in Farmingdale on Long Island
Wow you are in the exact same situation as me with JDM and I was getting ready to post about this. I called them on April 17th and placed an order with them. I ordered a Gen 3 whipple (JDM 700hp package), upgraded to a Ford Racing cobrajet throttle body, and 78lb/hr fuel injectors, along with a...
I'm about to be installing a whipple supercharger along with Kooks headers and true dual exhaust on my 2014 SCrew. I've been looking through the kit provided by whipple and the installation procedure and I see that the brackets for the heat exchanger mount to the frame horns.
Eventually (a...
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