Sounds like they’re being helpful, but you need to bypass the dealer and go straight to your regional Ford customer service rep. As others have stated, if they deny the claim in writing then it’s time to lawyer up.
If it is indeed a missing drain tube, then it’s a clear manufacturing...
<MATH>240 hours labor at a standard $100/hour rate... 6 40-hour work weeks labor, or two mechanics for 3 weeks. </MATH>
Price seems steep, but is pretty much in line with what I’d expect for a warrantied driveline change for a vehicle that doesn’t come in that configuration.
Flyin’ Miata...
Concur w/most of the above statements. Really depends on how much your time is worth.
Leaving the weights off, and more importantly failing to properly torque the lug nuts is a huge deal though. Might be worth getting a lawyer, but hood luck probing they did it unless it was immediately...
it’s at the four roses distillery! I’d be listing after visiting there too! :cheers:
Looks like a combination of the wheels turned and the induced camber, along with a slightly tilted camera.
No way to hammer an oversized socket over the lug?
Re: the threads, it sounds like galling or cross threaded to me. Do you use a (very small) dab of anti-seize on your threads? I do...every time I rotate or take off a rime for any reason (brakes, etc.). Clean and re-lube the stud/lug...
Yep Gorilla... work very well, and solid, unlike the semi-hollow crap factory lug nuts.
edit: just saw the spline/“tuner” requirement. Not sure Gorilla makes those, but believe they do.
Something from Amazon...honestly don’t recall the brand, but it was like $10 and had a couple different bases for different thread pitch/type (male and female) mounts.
they’re just Baja Design XL80s on SDHQ mounts I had powder coated black... in the BD thread in lighting and I think I did a stand-alone installation thread.
lights and mounts sold by a couple vendors here, but I got mine through Apollo Optics.
great vendor
My stock KO2s finally got to the point where I could justify replacing them, so went a bit of a different direction than I originally planned...
Was planning to put on some Nittos or Toyos, but mounted the new Goodyear Ultraterrains in 35/12.5-20 on the 601s I bought almost a year ago from...
My truck did not come with it and my odyssey to get one is detailed in my build thread (on phone but can search for it tonight)...
bottom line: you can NOT add it later unless you perform major surgery on the tailgate; cheaper to purchase a new one and it will cost a lot more than $700...
Try putting it into 4wD next time you hear it... if it goes away, very likely IWE.
that’s exactly what mine sounded like; thought it was a turbo waste gate or loose exhaust beacket.
@zombiekiller
Gonna seem like it’s not a big thing compared to all the other major mechanical changes on your beast of a build, but really curious how you mounted the light bar above your wind screen.
would love details and pics ... especially for how you routed the power cable into the cab...
kind of like the glare issue for me...wind noise with the XL80s is noticeable if I have the radio off and am listening for it, but otherwise I don’t even think about it.
greater light output up high is worth it for me even if it was much loder.
i guess the short bus looks pretty cool too...
:D
Hell, lose the wheels and I might actually buy this one...it’s even the correct color! Though it looks like it’s built on a van chassis.
Still think the SCAB looks better...
Thought about it, but haven’t tried it... it’s really a non-issue for me. Noticeable if I’m looking for it, but when I have them on, I’m usually looking as far out in front of the truck as possible and frankly don’t even notice it.
that’s pretty much my take on it as well. Really, really want to figure out a way to throw a bigger tank (and the F-150 diesel engine for that matter) into mine, but the SCAB just looks ‘right’ to me, and it’s only me 90% of the time, me plus the wife or maybe the pups 99.9% of the time.
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