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The consensus seems to be you can reinstall your tune after it's done without it overwriting the phaser update. It's suggested to update the firmware on your accessport first and may even be required before it will load your tune back on depending on how out of date it is

I reused the black clips that held the original fuel line to support the sensor, so no zip ties needed. I think hacking into factory wiring is totally unnecessary, especially with vampire connectors, only to save 4 ft of thin gauge wire. I'm sure that sensor loves all those voltage drops as well

I did leave the sensor dangling. It seemed pretty sturdy once everything was connected. I had the same bolt and when I reached out to Fuel It they mentioned that was a mistake and the bolt isn't used. I'm surprised for the cost they didn't at least have a set of instructions.

The sensor replaces a section of fuel rail down by the fuel tank. You will see a section of line that is removable that is the same length as the sensor they sent. As far as power/ground, I wired mine up to an unused AUX switch, but I'm sure you could use a fuse tap in the fuse box under the hood.

Just checked mine that I had installed last week and they are 113T. Wouldn't have noticed a difference if you wouldn't have mentioned it

I guess that depends on how far you are modded and if it will run on the stock tune. Shouldn't be an issue for most of us, but I could see highly modified vehicles having a lot of issues with this

Not trying to speak for FTO, but when he says the part needs to be replaced he means the BCM, which is the computer that controls most of the non powertrain functions of the truck. That is one of the reasons it's strongly recommended not connecting anything to existing wiring.

Any truth to this?

KL3Z-5230-A should be correct for the limited muffler. It's in the TSB: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10165706-0001.pdf It is strange Tasca and others are showing the KL3Z as fitting a raptor and the JL3Z as limited/raptor/etc

Did you get Sergey's info yet?

The bottom pic is the 2.4/7.2 option from the powerboost. The previous pic of the inverter under the 60 side of the back seats is the 2kw option that is available on the Gen 3

That pic is the 2kw option. The 2.4/7.2kw inverter is under the truck. 2kw pics: https://www.f150forum.com/f129/2kw-pro-power-491333/ 2.4kw and 7.2kw from the powerboost are under the truck

I'm pretty sure you lose the storage:

I'd suggest at least taking the battery out of the fob and trying to hide it if possible. You could also try one of those RFID blocking pouches.

Are there any earlier clips saved from before the accident that show either vehicle in better light? Perhaps from when you first parked, or when they arrived?

Strange, it should only unlock if the antenna detects a key fob. Have you owned it since new? If not, maybe the previous owner hid a fob somewhere near the tailgate

melvimbe is correct, however in the photo of the OP it looks like the sync module (APIM) is still attached to the screen so that should work for your 2014. You will probably need a new USB hub to use carplay as well

I don't the 8" has the side cards like the 12".. Just a refresh of Sync 3.4, but should give the ability for wireless carplay/android auto which I think is what most people want the upgrade for

There is an 8" version of Sync 4, but I don't know of anyone that has gotten it working yet. Some are working on it on the F150forums. I think there is a missing Canbus wire that Sync3 trucks don't have is one of the big problems they've run into so far.

Assuming it isn't any different from the non H.O. 3.5: More info here: https://www.f150forum.com/f129/2kw-pro-power-491333/index2/

Ok good to know. So I'm assuming your tune only modifies the relevant tables and isn't a complete flash of the PCM/TCM then?

but like nikhsub1 mentioned, reflashing the GooseTuned file would wipe the changes the dealer flash did. Updating the firmware won't fix that either. The latest release of the AP firmware is from 6/22 from what I see and those updates typically just support different ROMs so that you're actually...

That file sounds like a '20 Map update. I'd recommend dropping back to the previous version of SYNC which was 20351 I think. 21020 has a bug with Sirus/ TravelLink not working. You can find all the files and steps over at the F150forum or cyanlabs I think has a program that will download...

For the 315/70/17, but the 35x12.5x17 is load range D: Still heavy though

Sounds like there are 6 screws so you may be missing one. Probably this one: The lower screw on the LH side also has a wiring harness retainer that must be removed in order to gain access to the screw. From: https://www.f150forum.com/f118/center-console-lid-removal-346977/#post4761972