What did you go with on the wheelwells? I'm on the fence between Rust-oleum Truck Bed Pro Grade and Raptor Liner (rattle can), leaning towards Rust-oleum...
Brown wire going to downshift lever was smashed good and grounding to steering wheel. I installed another butt connector there just to be safe:
Then made double sure the wires cleared and had slack in them after the plate was in:
Honestly on the first go 'round I was more worried that the...
Got this done today, thanks for building an awesome kit and walkthrough videos @KrautKabbage!
Some thoughts for anyone else that does this. The wires are TINY and luckily I didn't have to use any of the extra included wire terminals for the connectors but just be careful with em and don't...
I've been having occasional weirdness with my RH steering wheel switch for a few months, sometimes instead of increasing volume it would skip to the next track, and then instead of skipping back to that song it would skip ahead even more (not cool bro) so I ordered a new SW-6879 from Rockauto...
Makes sense! Given that, it should be the same for these, whether it's the fronts with the Internal Floating Piston or the rear with the external reservoir, the nitrogen charge is separated from the shock fluid by the floating piston and gets compressed as shock fluid flows into the oil side of...
Not real sure, I haven't seen anything about it either, I'm no engineer but in my head as the shock goes through it's travel (compressing), the IFP is compressing the nitrogen so it would read a higher pressure at part/full travel...
Kinda the nature of the setup, smushing (yes that's a technical term I just learned in BJJ) a semi-metallic object into a spinny metal disc...I dunno, bed 'em more with some high-speed panic stops?
+1 on the time for rebuild, sounds like previous owner had issues and tried changing the trans oil ahead of you to no avail (also may be indicative of abuse heh). Side question, where the hell did you find a Ford lead frame? Or did you get the whole valve body assembly?
Hand tight P/S pump bolts ain't good, most likely has been replaced at least once as they are pretty common failures (or at least annoyingly noisy for everyone at some point). That seal is just a dust seal...ish, my factory ('13) one and reman rack had the same flimsy thing. The giant bolt...
Loose where?
The fans seem like the most likely suspect, although if your fans are anything like mine you could have zoomie headers and the RIDICULOUSLY LOUD HOVERCRAFT sound of those fans would completely drown it out :gasp:
Finally got around to ordering a set in blue, can't wait haha! I need to replace my steering wheel RH radio switch and I figure that's a close enough excuse to get this done at the same time =) I'll post some pics when I get it done...
I'd put that $1200 towards bump stops instead! You said you checked the leaf/shackle bolts, how about the rear shock mounting bolts? I missed torquing one of those and elongated a top mount hole (giggity)...
Yeahh that impeller doesn't look good haha! UPS Gorilla?
3 things come to mind in regards to wiring in the engine bay; A) that big harness that disappears down the firewall just aft of the passenger side cylinder head, make sure it's routed as far as possible from the exhaust, known to melt...
Yes! Full Race doesn't really tell how much increased capacity (although that's probably more marketing hype than anything) but it does say it's a "42mm 2-row (compared to 22mm 1-row)" for the stocker. Here's a little better angle, eyeballing it does look like the core is about twice as thick...
Full Race Radiator, fresh coolant and Motorcraft upper & lower radiator hoses this last weekend. Stock one developed a semi-random leak at the plastic tank, 203k miles seemed like a good time to swap the hoses as well. That lower clamp at the block was of course clocked at an impossible angle...
Beautiful truck, looks great! Forever truck is an intriguing proposal, how long you planning on living? Might need a spare truck heh, it's surprising (at least to me) how soon parts are no longer available from Ford and/or the aftermarket. But as others have mentioned and since you did too...
Nicely done! Stupid questions (full disclosure, I removed my swaybar and like it just fine heh, so just morbid curiosity here); #1 how do you secure the swaybar when disconnected? And #2 what drawback would there be to running one stock and one removable link (so you wouldn't have to secure...
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