Only way to accomplish your second step is to purchase the NavTV zen a2b. There are alternatives but they are junk in comparison to zen a2b. This module completely removes and replaces your B&O amplifier. This is the only way to properly integrate your new speakers and amplifiers.
Tesa tape can easily hide what’s really there. And they used ALOT of it. Although, I’d give them the benefit of a doubt that they did things right. Hopefully they used the pac A2B harness making the entire assembly plug and play without touching the factory harness. That being said, the...
You need to get power and ground directly from battery with the zen. I assure you. It even says it in the manual and NavTV will tell you the same thing. As far as not providing enough signal to amps? That’s not a remotely possible consequence of utilizing a direct power and ground connection...
Your speaker and amp choices are perfectly fine. That’s not the issue. It is how your shop is going to integrate into the B&O system that is the issue. If they are claiming they can retain the center channel and have it powered by the b&o amp then they are not utilizing the necessary integration...
Not sure who your stereo expert is but you should be DISCONNECTING that center speaker once you upgrade.
Also, not sure what integration module your stereo expert is utilizing but you CANNOT integrate into the b&o system without the NavTV Zen a2b can bus conversion interface. This is a hard...
The DSR1 is not an upgrade by any means. It is literally a piece of junk. Rockford may build some decent subs but their 360.3 and dsr1 dsp’s are about as bad as it gets. Pickup the for-11ck harness from Hush and a Dayton 408. The harness makes it 100% plug and play. And it’s future proofed for...
NO! The rear speakers have a non-defeatable 80hz lowpass crossover. The only correct way to do this is to utilize the for-11ck harness and utilize the front left and right channels from the harness. Do NOT use the rears as signal. It’s not full frequency.
https://phoenixandroidradioforums.com/forums/latest/fix-ford-f150-f250-2014-2018-very-low-no-sound
also
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/posts/1411444/
Post #483
Why can’t you solder, heat shrink, and extend the wire? I would not wire it straight to the fuse box. I would plug an add-a-fuse into fuse 23 at the passenger kick panel and utilize a relay.
Different input sources (optical vs rca) will affect the output. The output from your zen to your amps are different depending on the connection type. You have to set your gain accordingly for different connection types. If your input signal is lower (optical), you need to set your gain with...
The axxess harness is designed to plug into an axxess dsp. It has axxess’ proprietary plugs on it.
The for-11ck harness is used when adding aftermarket equipment. It will provide signal to your dsp and amplifiers without having to modify, cut, or splice the factory harness.
1. He does not have the Sony system
2. Factory non-amplified trucks do NOT have bass management or eq attenuation of any kind on the front channels. This has been verified countless times by multiple industry experts. The rear channels have an 80hz highpass crossover applied but rears are for...
This is the wrong harness for your truck and should only be used the with the axxess dsp. Axxess is junk in general.
Buy a pre-fab for-11ck harness from hush. It will be completely plug and play take all of the guess work out of wiring. Just plug and play. No splicing of any kind.
That’s the perimeter plus module AKA shock sensor. One of the best investments you can make. My truck was broken into a week after I bought it. No shock sensor so when they broke the glass, the alarm didn’t go off. I added the shock sensor, now when anyone or anything touches my trucks it gives...
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