GEN 2 Wiring question-Adding powered sub to non B&O system

[Hush Car Audio]

I build a ton of custom harnesses for people that are plug and play. Send me a PM if interested. There are a ton of threads on the other F150forum about my service. Hundreds of people love what I make for them. The NavTV unit is not the correct thing to use for non amplified systems end of story. The rear speaker are also not to be used as they do not deliver the full range signal for your amp.

 

[dhmcfadin]

you can tag the front door woofers or the rear door speakers for signal. turn on you can get from the passenger fuse box

NO! The rear speakers have a non-defeatable 80hz lowpass crossover. The only correct way to do this is to utilize the for-11ck harness and utilize the front left and right channels from the harness. Do NOT use the rears as signal. It’s not full frequency.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

NO! The rear speakers have a non-defeatable 80hz lowpass crossover. The only correct way to do this is to utilize the for-11ck harness and utilize the front left and right channels from the harness. Do NOT use the rears as signal. It’s not full frequency.

on the b&o system, yes. but on the non b&o system the low pass cutoff is different.

 

[dhmcfadin]

Pretty sure this was the post I referenced. Drivers side kick panel there is a connector, I tapped into the wires there, Passenger side it was behind the glove box.

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2015-ford-speaker-wiring-diagram-387719/

The PAC is not working for me so I need to decide if I want to go Audio Control lC2i or ramp up to the Rockford Fosgate DSR1.

The DSR1 is not an upgrade by any means. It is literally a piece of junk. Rockford may build some decent subs but their 360.3 and dsr1 dsp’s are about as bad as it gets. Pickup the for-11ck harness from Hush and a Dayton 408. The harness makes it 100% plug and play. And it’s future proofed for any other audio upgrades you want to do. The Dayton is a higher quality product and significantly more capable vs the Dsr1.

 

[dhmcfadin]

on the b&o system, yes. but on the non b&o system the low pass cutoff is different.

On non-amplified trucks, there is an 80hz low pass.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

On non-amplified trucks, there is an 80hz low pass.

i only use the front speaker signals, so i have never really measured the rears. there have been a few people here that have tagged the rears for sub.

 

[dhmcfadin]

i only use the front speaker signals, so i have never really measured the rears. there have been a few people here that have tagged the rears for sub.

Wrote lowpass but meant highpass. Glad you are doing it right. So many shops seem to think the rear channels are full frequency and they aren’t.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Wrote lowpass but meant highpass. Glad you are doing it right. So many shops seem to think the rear channels are full frequency and they aren’t.

i learned that back in 2011 with the crappy sony system. no matter what processor i used, anytime i added the rear or sub signal into the equation, it messed with the sound in a horrible way. tried 4 different processors, all the same result. 2017 came along, i didnt even bother. tried it once with b&o and got the same result. just did away with it instead of trying to make it work. ever since then, just used front signals. i havent connected an rta to the rears on a non amplified one. did it on the b&o to get a reading, but i havent had a non amplified come through our shop to test. some people here have said it works, but nothing i have tried

 

[Hush Car Audio]

Only use the front speakers for signal end of story.