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nope. Totally happy with the Gen 3 raptor. Solid upgrade over gen 2. Raptor R is the perfect way to allow little boys with small dicks over compensate by purchasing an over the top attention whore truck that has very little extra to offer other then looking better on paper, or the 1x every...

I am finally going to pick up my passed father-in-laws 944 cabriolet. 3,000 pound car on a smallish trailer for 325 miles. Should be no issue for the Raptor right?

She's a bute Clark!!

nope...it is complete overkill and I already have normal sized man parts. no need to buy a big **** truck to over compensate. The normal raptor is plenty and more than many of us ever need or want. Everything else is just peacocking.

it is up in the atic of my garage. maybe this weekend. we covered this several times when many of us were doing our builds 2 years ago.

maybe on the blue one....hard pass on the Rockstar . Gears truck.

it is the same amp. same hardware, connectors, same everything.

nope...not THAT simple. And THAT is the problem. But make no mistake, the AMP is the weakest part of the system. In order to replace the amp, you have to buy the $450 nav-tv to interface with the truck. then you have to buy the amp. You have to replace the front tweeters, when you do nthat...

welcome. i would black out the orange. but you do you.

For a factory set up....overkill...BUT...since they tend to use small amplifiers, you can get better low volume sound with just sure number of drivers. 3 way separates in each door = 12 speakers. 2 way center = 14 2 subs = 16...then i guess they are adding overhead like an ATMOS set up 2 = 18...

THAT is correct. It is B&O in name only and maybe some tuning. The AMp still has the Sony sticker on it. And the speakers are basic FOMOCO paper cones. B&O is just marketing and some tuing...thats it.

I will bet dollars to donuts the speakers will not change. For the record, the speakers are not the problem with the B&O system. The problem is the amp. When I was doing my build, I did the speakers last, using stock speakers + a proper 75w a channel, and the stock speakers sounded pretty...

Ok Karen.

I thought the hubs were engaging and dis engaging in that scenario? either way...it doesnt make much difference. @ the transfer case or @ the hubs...there is some part of the drive line that is still being driven

The truck is easy to drive. I did 16 hours over 1,000 miles Steamboat to STL and I never left the driver seat. Every time we stopped, the wife or daughter were asleep...so i kept going.

get in...fill up with gas...check the oil...and drive. it is a modern truck. stop overthinkning it and enjoy your drive.

yes. about 1 mpg....if you never get the front hubs to lock up. the reason is, the center transfer case is engaged and sending power to the front diff. it is disconnected at the hubs. so you have a little extra drive line resistance. not much, but it is there.

Ford to Dodge...."nice TRX...hold my beer"

people conveniently for get about and dont talk about the extra 1,000 pounds the TRX carries. Ford's commitment to aluminum is really paying off. "on paper" there is a 250hp gap, but in reality 150 of the extra HP is needed to carry all the extra weight.

it all is good. i dont get into the whole KC vs STL vs Memphis vs Texas vs Carolina BBQ. It is all good and has its own variations. As long as it is done correct, i will eat it.

complete myth false as fvck

same....i tell her she is going to cause us to crash over reacting to that thing. She has it in her Explorer knows how ambitious it can be.

That is what I use....and i use a 2x6 block between the frame and the jack puck to get a little extra height.

A couple of Nit picks...for nit picks sake...it is the internet after all...:) This is incorrect. All the changed was Live Valve shocks. the other 90% of the suspension is the same. A arms, springs, leaf springs, stabilizers. All the same. All Live Valve does is changes shock dampening...

oh yes. I pulled up and was like "sh!t, that is closer then i thought"