Haha!! Yes i did
Gen 2 SCAB makeover…totally not ripping off Geoff’s 2.5 build!
- Thread starter 91Eunos
- Start date
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OP
OP
91Eunos
FRF Addict
@full-race geoff and/or anyone else in the know. It looks like I can still get the intake cams for my motor, but the exhaust cams have been discontinued and unavailable to order. Anyone have a line on any NOS cams laying around?
Alternatively, I can order Gen3 cams… but have no idea whether or not they’ll fit in my Gen2 heads.
Third option is new aftermarket cams I suppose, but have no idea where to begin that search other than Google and hope for the best, LoL.
Alternatively, I can order Gen3 cams… but have no idea whether or not they’ll fit in my Gen2 heads.
Third option is new aftermarket cams I suppose, but have no idea where to begin that search other than Google and hope for the best, LoL.
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Nex
RIP CoronaRaptor
Or... some old school RV cams, then hack off the last cylinder.
OP
OP
91Eunos
FRF Addict
Block packed up, ready to ship to a guy @full-race geoff introduced me to… Had to get clever with the hoist to get the block/mains/windage tray into the very heavily reinforced box since I’m working solo:
Dropped it in far enough to take the weight off the chains:
And then moved them to the end to raise it back up to add even more cardboard and dunnage under the end (6+” of stacked cardboard plus packing paper), then dropped it back in with the bellhousing down…guess I forgot to take a picture, LoL.
Regardless, I then flipped it on it’s side, so the windage tray is down/cylinder bores up, and those thin pieces of plywood are on the top and bottom of the container:
I even cut two reinforced lifting holes through the first two layers of corrugated on each end (folded the cardboard inwards and taped all around with gorilla tape).
Also shipping him a new Gen3 crank and some other bits, including the billet flex plate so it can be balanced along with the crank/rods/pistons assembly.
Once he’s complete, and the heads are finished at Headgames, I’m almost certainly gonna have the heads as well as the built short block then shipped to a third dude (race shop) to assemble the long block and install the timing gear. Just need to figure out how soon boundary’s gonna be able to get their oil pump out…looking more and more like a Melling, or new factory pump and new factory crank gears though.
I could certainly do that last bit myself, but have way too many other irons in the fire right now…and I get the peace of mind knowing it was assembled by a pro.
I’ll still do all the ancillary parts installation (intake manifold, turbos/exhaust manifolds, a/c, etc.) and of course be cleaning up the chassis and upgrading stuff as the parts go back in.
More to follow.
Dropped it in far enough to take the weight off the chains:
And then moved them to the end to raise it back up to add even more cardboard and dunnage under the end (6+” of stacked cardboard plus packing paper), then dropped it back in with the bellhousing down…guess I forgot to take a picture, LoL.
Regardless, I then flipped it on it’s side, so the windage tray is down/cylinder bores up, and those thin pieces of plywood are on the top and bottom of the container:
I even cut two reinforced lifting holes through the first two layers of corrugated on each end (folded the cardboard inwards and taped all around with gorilla tape).
Also shipping him a new Gen3 crank and some other bits, including the billet flex plate so it can be balanced along with the crank/rods/pistons assembly.
Once he’s complete, and the heads are finished at Headgames, I’m almost certainly gonna have the heads as well as the built short block then shipped to a third dude (race shop) to assemble the long block and install the timing gear. Just need to figure out how soon boundary’s gonna be able to get their oil pump out…looking more and more like a Melling, or new factory pump and new factory crank gears though.
I could certainly do that last bit myself, but have way too many other irons in the fire right now…and I get the peace of mind knowing it was assembled by a pro.
I’ll still do all the ancillary parts installation (intake manifold, turbos/exhaust manifolds, a/c, etc.) and of course be cleaning up the chassis and upgrading stuff as the parts go back in.
More to follow.
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OP
OP
91Eunos
FRF Addict
Not a big update, but it looks like the block’s finally getting shipped out today; spent the better part of last week driving all over Texas trying to get a replacement vehicle for my wife’s wrecked X5. Finally got her a new Jeep Grand Cherokee up north of Dallas…drove it back Saturday night (crappy pic by the salesman):
The block’s ready to go, just waiting for my wife to get home and/or my son to come over to help me load it up…local UPS shop will take up to 150#, so this should be gtg. Shipping on 108# ain’t gonna be cheap though, LoL.
Here’s the basics of what I’m having done for ~$4K plus any required machining to correct issues.
700Hp Rated Shortblock
-Incoming inspection (visual inspection, check mainline, check cylinders, check threads)
-Diamond Hone w/Plateau finish
-Deck (PCD)
-Jetwash
-Set ring gap
-Set bearing clearance
-Check crank straightness
-Crank micropolish
-Full set of bearings
-Balancing Crank, Rods, Pistons (adding weight is additional if needed)
-Traum Forged 10:1cr Pistons
-Eagle Forged Hbeam Rods w/ARP2000 bolts
-Assemble crank, rods, pistons into block
I was gonna upgrade to those Boostline rods @full-race geoff showed in his thread, but overkill for my needs …gonna stick w/the Eagle rods for this one.
Edit: $273 to ship the block to NH insured for $500 with windage tray, mains, and rear seal plate installed; UPS scale said 106#. Fit perfectly in the back of my wife’s new SUV btw…
Also have a brand new Gen3 crank OTW to him; shipping direct from Ford Parts Giant.
Waiting for the ARP crank bolt to show up so I can package it with the billet flex plate and ship them both to him as well.
The block’s ready to go, just waiting for my wife to get home and/or my son to come over to help me load it up…local UPS shop will take up to 150#, so this should be gtg. Shipping on 108# ain’t gonna be cheap though, LoL.
Here’s the basics of what I’m having done for ~$4K plus any required machining to correct issues.
700Hp Rated Shortblock
-Incoming inspection (visual inspection, check mainline, check cylinders, check threads)
-Diamond Hone w/Plateau finish
-Deck (PCD)
-Jetwash
-Set ring gap
-Set bearing clearance
-Check crank straightness
-Crank micropolish
-Full set of bearings
-Balancing Crank, Rods, Pistons (adding weight is additional if needed)
-Traum Forged 10:1cr Pistons
-Eagle Forged Hbeam Rods w/ARP2000 bolts
-Assemble crank, rods, pistons into block
I was gonna upgrade to those Boostline rods @full-race geoff showed in his thread, but overkill for my needs …gonna stick w/the Eagle rods for this one.
Edit: $273 to ship the block to NH insured for $500 with windage tray, mains, and rear seal plate installed; UPS scale said 106#. Fit perfectly in the back of my wife’s new SUV btw…
Also have a brand new Gen3 crank OTW to him; shipping direct from Ford Parts Giant.
Waiting for the ARP crank bolt to show up so I can package it with the billet flex plate and ship them both to him as well.
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OP
OP
91Eunos
FRF Addict
@full-race geoff or anyone else: how do we feel about ARP bolts for the flex plate? Waste of money or good investment?
Seems like a no-brainer considering how much I spent on that billet flex plate and torque converter, but thought I’d ask the hive mind before ordering.
Edit: for $41 I just went ahead and ordered ‘em from Summit. Factory bolts are ~$20 and while these are double the price, it’s only $20 more, and peace of mind is worth a lot more than $20.
arp-bolts.com
And yes, I measured mine on my thread checker to confirm thread pitch and length; same as the Coyote motor apparently.
Seems like a no-brainer considering how much I spent on that billet flex plate and torque converter, but thought I’d ask the hive mind before ordering.
Edit: for $41 I just went ahead and ordered ‘em from Summit. Factory bolts are ~$20 and while these are double the price, it’s only $20 more, and peace of mind is worth a lot more than $20.
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
And yes, I measured mine on my thread checker to confirm thread pitch and length; same as the Coyote motor apparently.
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full-race geoff
Full Access Member
definitely agree - easily worth it to use arp hardware for the engine rotating parts. Thanks for being a few steps ahead of me on the driveline stuff!
I have the CVF turbo adapters I’m installing this weekend. Chose not to get the downpipes because I already have the AWE-0FG exhaust and wasn’t sure how it would sound as it’s my daily. I also have CVF intake, Boost tubes, leaving kit, and Icon leafs in the rear on 37s. If anyone is looking for performance parts with CVF use promo code CITRUS at check for a discount.Geoff- since we’re on the subject, what down pipes work and doesn’t work from your R&D? CVF states it has built in adapters, have you guys tried them?
I have a set waiting patently in the garage…
CVF Stainless Steel Downpipes with Built-In Turbo Adapters (2017-2020
ESTIMATED SHIP DATE: IN STOCK AND SHIPS WITHIN 24 HOURS SEE FEEDBACK FROM THE RAPTOR F-150 ECOBOOST COMMUNITY HERE: Detailed installation/product review from AmericanTrucks Ford on YouTube Cold start video (with OEM exhaust) at YouTube.com Drive-by video (with OEM exhaust) at YouTube.com Product...www.cvfab.com
Nex
RIP CoronaRaptor
Welcome to FRF.
Make a post in the new member section post up a picture of your prius.
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