Leveling the front with spacers, not the perch adjustment

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BigJ

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Seems everyone here levels their Raptor via the perch adjustment. Just wondering if anyone else beside me went with spacers instead?

I went with the kit from Truxxx almost a year ago today. 14k pavement miles and 2k or so off road miles later, and I have zero complaints.

Here's the before measurement
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and the after measurement
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for comparison, here's my rear measurement
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Oh and for whatever reason, my truck didn't need an alignment after this. Here's what the dealership handed me when asking me why I wasted their time:
align.jpg

Again, a year later, still no alignment needed and my tires show zero sign of abnormal wear (the original BFGs which at this rate I expect to get betweek 50k and 60k total miles out of them).
 

troycrna

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nice. It seems like there are pros and cons to both. I am on the fence as to which one to do. The spacers definitely seem easier to install.
 
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BigJ

BigJ

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It really was a straight forward install, although I don't know if I'd call it easier. Here's the writeup I did on SVTO that might help you decide, or at least understand what's involved

I've been considering leveling out my Raptor since I brought it home. I'm not ashamed to admit that I don't like the "stink bug" look, plain and simple. And to be perfectly honest, that's probably the main reason this mod keeps coming back up in my mind.

However there are other functional reasons as well. I do want to replace my stock bumper and skid, but finances don't allow for that (at least in the short term), so getting the nose up in the air helps with the approach angle I've been struggling with (by adding my Bull Bar I gave up a little bit). It will also help me avoid mangling that skid plate.

I waffled back and forth between the Truxxx kit and adjusting the spring perch. MarkT pretty much wrote the definitive word regarding these two mods in terms of their ramifications, and in the end thanks mostly to Mark, I decided the Truxxx kit was a better option for me. I scored a brand new kit off eBay for $100 shipped, which made the decision even easier for me.

On to the install. I assembled these notes and many of these pics from various sources over the internet. Those with the SVTO watermark are pics I took and those left unmarked are those I pulled from elsewhere. I totally lost my notes on what came from where, so if these are yours thanks for taking them!

Go ahead and read the Truxxx install instructions then basically throw them away. They're almost worthless. Then call Truxxx up @ 888-660-5892 ext8, tell them you're going to do this install and ask them for any tips. I talked to Dave twice and both times he was really helpful in offering tips and pitfalls to avoid. Then read these notes. Between those three sources, you should be in good shape, even if you're not the most experienced modder out there.

Start by making some room. Unbolt the retainer holding the brake line in place

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You can use a small flathead to push the locking tooth up on the tiestraps releasing them and allowing for reuse
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I then unbolted the tie rods.

I've read one guy used standard tie down straps at this point, wrapped thru the tie rod holes and around the back of the upper control arm pivot bolts, with the other end hooked to the top of the caliper mounting post. I don't have standard straps, but I do have ratcheting straps and a bottle jack so I used those. I would suggest you probably go buy standard tie downs and use those instead.

Once tight and fully supported, I knocked the top ball joints loose.

I then knocked off the chrome spindle dust cap off, and removed the spindle nut. FYI this is a nut that looks like it deforms when torqued. You may consider replacing these with new nuts, or do what I did which is reuse them but also applied couple drops of blue loctite to each first. (According to Ford, there is no special note about either replacing them or reusing them, nor is there anything indicating these are special 'crush' or 'deformation' style nuts. The part number is N802827-S440, and run around $1.70ea retail.)

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You don't actually pull the hub, brake caliper or shaft. Removing this nut allows the shaft to float and give you that extra bit of room needed to remove the strut.



I then pulled the bottom strut bolt (its TIIIGGGGHT) and then loosened (not removed) the three top strut nuts. I worked the bottle jack down slowly as the tension in the strut released until finally I was able to remove the three top strut nuts. A little 'gentle persuasion' with the pry bar and out came the strut.


Here's everything apart
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Here's one of the gotchas; from the factory our struts have wedge spacers top and bottom. Apparently lots of guys neglect to remove the top spacers from the strut FIRST. They then go to put the Truxxx spacer on and it no workie. You want to pull those spacers off before putting the Truxxx on, then put the wedge on top of the installed Truxxx spacer (those wedges are the same side to side, top to bottom)


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Here's where you can see why the stock studs need to be cut down. There's no clearance for 'em.
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Here's a little trick I read from another guy who did this install; The Truxxx instructions tell you you have to flip the strut 180deg to reinstall it, but the bummer there is that pretty engraved SVT logo and Fox labeling is now facing the rear of the truck! Given that everything is identical side to side, why not swap the struts side to side to keep everything pointing forward as before? So that's what I did; the driver strut is now on the passenger side, and the passenger side strut is on the drivers side. Everything is facing forward as before.


After that it was a matter of reinstalling everything in the reverse order. I did have to pry down on the lower control arm to gain that extra bit of clearance required, which is where having that spindle nut removed and slack in all the cabling really helped.

Here's the torque specs I used to reassemble everything. This is from the 2009 F150 4x4 w/ 5.4 FFV Service Manual. The 2010 isn't available yet, but even so I'm fairly positive the numbers I'm interested didn't change between 2009 and 2010, and nothing here is Raptor specific. Use this, or not, with all that in mind :)
hub-assy.jpg
 
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BigJ

BigJ

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If you are on the fence, I can't recommend reading MarkT's post enough. IMHO no one has done a better job explaining the options, their negatives and their positives. He's a former pro trophy truck racer, and really knows his stuff. And honestly you'd be hard pressed to meet a nicer guy who wants nothing but to help you make the best choice for you.

Here's his post in its entirety, just in case something goes wonky during the forum merger and it gets lost or something

From MarkT's post found here: The Fox Shock Perch Adjustment Mod. Please keep in mind this post was made in early 2010, before anyone was doing either of these mods really. So lots of his concerns/questions raised have been answered now. But still, the theory he talks about still totally applies.

When you raise the front ride height, the a-arm angles at static ride height change. This affects the camber of the wheel as the wheel moves through the travel. Caster change and bump steer can also be affected. Roll center height and the way the cornering forces are transmitted to the frame will definitely change as well.

The "mechanical advantage" of the lower suspension arm in relation to the shock assy. changes. This affects the spring and damping rates at the wheel... but probably not much.

Without careful measuring and a lot of calculations and testing, it's really impossible to say if the geometry changes caused by a lift would be significant or detrimental. Some a-arm suspensions are extremely sensitive and others aren't. But with any lift on the Raptor, you are definitely risking affecting the handling... especially if the roll center height moves much... and no matter what you are raising the center of gravity of the truck.

The above is true with either spacers or preload changes. Now let's talk about the two simplest ways to raise the front end.

Spacer Method

The biggest concern I see is the full droop angles of the drive axle and the steering linkage. CV joints can bind up and you need to be sure that the tie rod end at the wheel and in the rack and pinion don't run out of travel at full droop. (don't forget to turn the wheels from lock to lock when checking the steering linkage...) The ball joints need to be checked too. It sounds like the fine folks at Truxxx have already made these checks.

One advantage to the spacer method is that at full compression you have more ground clearance!

I'm not sure I'd worry too much about the a-arm hitting the spring lightly. But if you decide to put limiting straps on to stop this contact, you will likely be reducing the overall travel of the stock suspension.

Preload Method

First an explanation of what's actually happening when you add preload to the spring. Some people will say by increasing preload the springs gets "stiffer" and ride quality is reduced. This would defy the laws of physics and is not true at all!

To keep the explanation simple, let's say the Raptor has a spring rate of 1000lbs/in. That means for every inch you compress the spring, it will exert 1000 pounds of force.

The front end of the Raptor weighs a fixed amount. Let's say with the lower spring perch in the stock position the spring is compressed 3 inches. (In other words, the spring is exerting 3000 pounds of force to hold the truck up).

Now we move the lower spring perch up one inch. What happens? Remember that the front end of the truck still weighs the same amount so the spring still compresses exactly the same 3 inches so the springs are exerting exactly the same 3000 pounds of force! But now the shock is extended one inch more which is why the front end is higher.

This puts the piston in the shock in a different position which will affect the "internal bypass" tuning.

With the shock extended one inch more than stock, you've lost one inch of droop travel (at the shock) but you've gained one inch of compression travel (at the shock).

So let's say the stock setup has 5 inches of available (shock) compression travel and 3 inches of droop travel when sitting at ride height. With the lower spring perch moved up one inch, we now have 6 inches of shock compression travel available at ride height and only 2 inches of droop available.

(Please remember that the numbers I'm using are fictional for the purposes of illustration. The actual Raptor numbers are certainly different but the principle is what is important.)

Stock at ride height plus one inch of shock compression the spring force would be 4000 pounds. With one inch of preload and the shock compressed one additional inch past ride height you have exactly the same 4000 pounds of spring force.

When the stock setup is compressed the full 5 inches past ride height to bottoming, you have a total of 8000 pounds of spring force. Compressing the preloaded shock 5 inches from ride height results in the same 8000 pounds of force.

But remember that the preloaded shock can compress six inches... one more inch. So when it's bottomed out you have 9000 lbs of spring force. (just remember what you gained in compression travel, you lost in droop travel.)

Notice that this "extra force" in our example is not there during normal driving but only at the extreme limits of shock travel. The only way to get a significantly stiffer ride around town is to change the springs.

With the preload method, you don't have to worry about the CV joint or steering linkage exceeding their limits. The only "mechanical" thing to worry about with added preload is the springs coil binding at full compression... not likely.

With either method the CV's will be running at a slightly steeper angle pretty much all the time. Will that affect their life? Probably not much if at all. (I would be very concerned about the spacer kit causing damage to a CV, ball joint, or tie rod end at full droop though.)

Either method will also affect the alignment. Jack up the front end with a floor jack and you can see the camber change on the front tires. One thing I would recommend on a vehicle as new as the Raptor is measuring the stock alignment before doing anything... then trying to get back to those specs after the lift. On some vehicles (like the FJ Cruiser), there is not enough adjustment to get the alignment into stock specs with a 2" lift...
 
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Aaron

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Wow, that was a great post by MarkT. Very information, I learned a ton. Thanks, guys.

Likewise, that really illustrated the pros/cons in a well thought out manner. Consider me more informed now.
 
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BigJ

BigJ

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Hmm normally I'm not a fan of using general marketing material as an information source, and that link kinda shows why. I don't think anything they're talking about applies to us anyway.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong?
 

pirate air

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Hmm normally I'm not a fan of using general marketing material as an information source, and that link kinda shows why. I don't think anything they're talking about applies to us anyway.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong?

Read through it real quick, didn't see anything I would disagree on suspension theory wise. Any IFS spring in strut system (tacoma, tundra, dodge ram, gm 1500, raptor, etc) would react (positive or negatively) the same way with a spacer, or spring perch/preload move. The part components are different between truck makes, which will allow for more or less leeway when it comes to problems, but the theory and reactions are the same.
 
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