Your Raptor and It's Alignment

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

D

Deleted member 12951

Guest
Is it difficult to get all these at that with an alignment? Firestone just did mine and it looks like:

Camber LF -.6 / RF -.7
Caster LF 3.9 / RF 3.9
Toe LF .07 / RF .10
Total Toe .17
Steer Ahead -.01

Camber LR -.4 / RR -.2
Toe LR .13 / RR -.06
Total Toe .07
Thrust Angle .09

What is was before:
Camber LF -.3 / RF -.8
Caster LF 3.4 / RF 3.5
Toe LF -.12 / RF -.28
Total toe -.40
Steer Ahead .08

Camber LR -.4 / RR -.2
Toe LR .11 / RR -.04
Total toe .07
Thrust Angle .08

Not exact but why would the LR be what appears to be quite off on toe?
Only thing done to the rear is HD leaf springs about 6 weeks ago.
EDIT: just looked at previous alignments, LR seems to be higher since day one.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
D

Deleted member 12951

Guest
From what I read in the Alignment thread, most run these specs.

Caster 4.0 - 4.3
Camber -0.2 - -0.4
Toe .10 - .12
Total Toe .20 - .25

Works for both stock and mid perch.


Are these specs still want I want to have if I replaced my stock shocks with ICON 3.0's or should it be different?
 

Towerhog

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2012
Posts
358
Reaction score
110
Location
Southeast CT
RDFTS. Sorry I didn't see your post from July. Those specs are good with the exception of total toe. Though not horribly bad just could be better. The specs listed is also good for 3.0's.
 
D

Deleted member 12951

Guest
Well Firestone did another alignment since I came back from Raptoberfest and got the 3.0's installed. They said they could not get the RF camber adjusted any more.

Left me with:
Camber LF -0.5
Camber RF -1.1
Caster LF 4.0
Caster RF 4.4
Toe LF 0.12
Toe RF 0.09
Total Toe 0.21
Steer ahead 0.01

Camber LR 0.0
Camber RR -0.1
Toe LR 0.70
Toe RR -0.37
Total Toe rear 0.33
Thrust angle 0.54

Why would they be having trouble with the RF camber?

Edit: going back, driving down the road, wow the wheel is way off, pissed.

9ca78f5d76eae26e4b4336e90610e34a.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
OP
pirate air

pirate air

will plunder your booty
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Posts
4,253
Reaction score
1,379
Location
Texas
^^^ your right steering knuckle is probably slightly bent.
 
D

Deleted member 12951

Guest
^^^ your right steering knuckle is probably slightly bent.


How do I check/confirm that? And would that still account for the crooked steering wheel or can that at least be corrected?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
OP
pirate air

pirate air

will plunder your booty
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Posts
4,253
Reaction score
1,379
Location
Texas
How do I check/confirm that? And would that still account for the crooked steering wheel or can that at least be corrected?


Unfortunately there's really no easy way to verify a knuckle that's slightly bent because its nearly impossible to identify with the naked eye. You really have to know what your looking at and what the data is telling you when making the adjustments, and even then, bent suspension components are hard to spot. If the alignment tech is doing everything to correct the negative camber (pulling the lower control arm all the way in) and still having excessive camber, either the alignment machine has problems or something is bent. I've helped ALOT of people over the years with camber issues and it always comes down to a bent knuckle.

The steering wheel should be able to be straightened. Some extra negative camber or positive caster will have to be added to the left side to correct a pull to the left. But I wouldn't leave it like it is and drive it around a bunch. With that much camber the front tires will wear pretty fast.
 
D

Deleted member 12951

Guest
So would my best option be to purchase the SDHQ knuckle replacements with gussets to get installed and then redo the alignment? Any concerns with the UCA or LCA?
 
OP
OP
pirate air

pirate air

will plunder your booty
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Posts
4,253
Reaction score
1,379
Location
Texas
So would my best option be to purchase the SDHQ knuckle replacements with gussets to get installed and then redo the alignment? Any concerns with the UCA or LCA?

Either buy the sdhq ones or buy new knuckles and have the outlaw off road gussets welded on (I have the outlaw gussets and they've been good so far). Or there's the more expensive fabricated knuckle options. Then yes, after the new knuckles are on, redo the alignment. The factory LCA is pretty freakin stout, chances of it bending are pretty slim. The UCA would bend next after the knuckle but overal the UCA is a fairly stout peice. The knuckle is the real Achilles heal.

One thing to look for when installing gussested knuckles is to make sure the gusset doesn't hit the coil spring on full turning lock. You may have to grind a little off the gusset if it does. Not a major deal but something that is easily overlooked.
 
D

Deleted member 12951

Guest
Either buy the sdhq ones or buy new knuckles and have the outlaw off road gussets welded on (I have the outlaw gussets and they've been good so far). Or there's the more expensive fabricated knuckle options. Then yes, after the new knuckles are on, redo the alignment. The factory LCA is pretty freakin stout, chances of it bending are pretty slim. The UCA would bend next after the knuckle but overal the UCA is a fairly stout peice. The knuckle is the real Achilles heal.

One thing to look for when installing gussested knuckles is to make sure the gusset doesn't hit the coil spring on full turning lock. You may have to grind a little off the gusset if it does. Not a major deal but something that is easily overlooked.

@pirate air
Will a dealer replace a slightly bent knuckle under warranty? Have less than 12k miles. Or do they consider that abuse? Or is it one of those, it depends...
 
Top