Wrench light after uninstalling tune

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gibsonandwhiskey
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Finally got it fixed. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I think it was a combination of user error and weak battery. The Cobb says to make sure you are using a battery charger when changing tunes. I didn’t have one and figured my battery was fine. I’m not sure if it was that or updating the accessport to get the newest firmware, but after doing both of those it worked.
I think I will be keeping an eye on the battery, but I’m just glad I didn’t end up messing up my truck And was able to get it fixed. Also looks like I’m going to be ordering a battery charger tonight for then I install/uninstall the accessport.
Also big thanks to Cobb and Goosetuned for the emails back and forth and the help. I figured it was something I was messing up…
 

smurfslayer

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Great news, good outcome. Similarly, you need to keep power when making FORSCAN changes, or you could, in some serious cases, brick one of the modules.

As to your previous question about driving the truck with the wrench light -

that would definitely depend on the DTC and severity, as well as the context.
Even if all of your DTC’s were seemingly benign, I would wholeheartedly say no, do not drive the truck based on the known circumstances.
 

Keshka

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Grab one of these:
and this software:

it's a great package for reading codes, graphing and real time monitoring. It will also clear codes. You can also clear codes by leaving the battery disconnected for about 10 min. Why clear the codes? To see if it comes back letting you know if the error is persistent or not.

As to driving with a code or CEL, I would. The ECM is smart enough these days that if the code is critical it will put the vehicle in "Limp mode". I have service hundreds of rigs customer had been driving for months with the CEL on.

On checking your battery. Being able to produce 200 cca is only half the story. The other half is for how long. Most of us don't have a way to dump 2.4 Kw of power for more than a few seconds but you can get the results other ways. Turning on the headlights worked great in older cars now the system is smart enough to turn them off after a period of time. Grab a know load such as an old style halogen headlight bulb and connect it to your battery. A 60-watt halogen bulb draws 5 amps so if you have an 80 amp hour battery (pretty standard), one bulb should burn for 16 hours, two bulbs, 8 hours.

At ~4 years old, your battery is probably getting pretty weak.
 

chrisuhl797

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Thanks. I’ve got it on the charger now.

Do you know if it’s okay to drive the truck with the wrench light on? I was thinking of just going for a drive around town to let it run for a bit and see if anything clears up. I just started it this morning and the CEL light went away, so it’s just the wrench now.
I sent my diagnostics report to Cobb and they confirmed that everything was uninstalled successfully and the C/S rep there told me to drive it for a while to see if it clears up.
I would take it to a Ford dealer and have th m hook it up to a computer.
 

Dr Racecraft

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Aren't batteries only covered on the three years/36,000 miles warranty?
Yes, from what I understand, I thought he was under this warranty but maybe I read wrong. I just got a new battery for free myself at like 34k and 2.3yrs
 

WOW

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FordTechOne

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The 2019 Raptor like my 2018 should have an AGM battery. NEVER use a resistive load, carbon pack, or similar tester on this type of battery. You will shorten it's life dramatically if not kill it. Only use smart testers like https://www.otctools.com/products/3200 or https://www.schumacherelectric.com/products/digital-12v-battery-tester/. These testers use smart electronics to test the battery without loading it in a way that could damage the battery.
This is important information. An AGM compatible tester and charger should always be used on these batteries.
 
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