Sometimes I wonder.....
You know the number one fix to eliminate shit breaking during wheel hop? The driver
Im not a fan of hennessey, I sure as hell don't wanna stick up for em but... I don't understand the finger pointing that somehow they should of made doing burnouts damage proof. In fact nothing about the 600 package said it improved upon the suspension. Sure, the increased hp made things worse, but a stock Raptor wheel hops bad enough to the point owners reported twisting the driveshaft in half. Maybe ford will replace the drive shaft for a Raptor owner once, but not over and over, and certainly not out of warranty. So couldn't we point the finger at ford for not doing enough r&d on burnout damage prevention just as easily as hennessey?
The Raptor wheel hops easily due to the three inch lift block accommodated by a soft leaf spring pack. When the axle "wraps", the pinion gear is climbing the ring gear, rotating the axle housing rather than rotating the ring gear/tires. The lift block provides added leverage for the climbing pinion gear against the already soft giving leaf spring pack. The axle housing continues to rotate untill the force is so great the tires spin instead. Once this happens the suspension un loads and the proccess starts over again causing sever wheel hop. Short of multi linking the rear axle housing and coiling suspension, you can avoid some of the wheel hop by either eliminate the block/leverage, with aftermarket springs, or use traction bars to fix the axle housing in an addition spot to keep it from rotating. Or do both, springs and bars.
It doesn't matter what Raptor suspension magician shop you take it to. There will never be a guarantee that the truck will be completely wheel hop free. Any form of automotive sport where the tires transmit the force used to accelerate the vehicle will experience wheel hop. Whether its caused by the suspension, tire sidewall, or both. A formula car, cup car, rock crawler, top fuel car, shifted cart, monster truck, whatever, all experience wheel hop at one time or another. Some obviously way more extreme then others. Its up to the drivers to control the throttle to keep things from breaking, wrecking, causing themselfs black outs or brain trauma . No matter how well its built, you still have to understand your throttle and use it accordingly.
I'd stick with the stock drive shaft in this case for two reasons. For one its meant to deflect and give a little before it breaks. It will absorb the shock loads during the wheel hop much like using a tow strap rather than a chain to recover a stuck vehicle. Two, keep the drive shaft the "weak link". It's the cheapest and easiest thing to replace, vs an axle shaft, ring and pinion, differential, or something in the t case or transmission that would/could break instead.