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I’m going with you!Ok, so usually, i'd just not respond BUT what the hell...
Please understand that in a lot of cases, the expanses of someone's baja "go kit" might be guarded like a trade secret or something. I'm going to type out my list, but you're going to have to look up the part numbers because I honestly don't want to look them all back up again and my spares kit is all packed up. ( which means I really don't want to unpack the whole thing to get the hard copy of all the part numbers out. )
So, here goes:
a generous assortment of fuses ( all sizes and amperages)
4 feet of 14g red wire
4 feet of 14g black wire
an assortment of crimp, loop, u, etc electrical connectors
More hose clamps than you can imagine ( all sizes and some specialty cv boot hose clamps )
2 cv boots
2 kartek emergency 930cv boots
1 oem eBOV
MAF sensor (or whatever the technical term for the $5 sensor in the intake tube immediately post-airbox)
o2 sensor
electronic parts cleaner
spare vacuum check valve (this is what your iwe vac lines plug into)
IWE
Spare fuel pressure vacuum interface
IWE lines
2 front wheel speed sensors
2 rear wheel speed sensors
driveshaft
steering rack
3/8" and 5/16" rubber radiator hose ( prestone brand usually)
a couple hydraulic fittings (some for power steering pumps, some for shock hoses)
some AN fittings
good assortment of SAE and metric hardware (nuts,bolts, washers )
weatherpack fittings
wire loom/insulator
driver's side front differential plug ( the innermost stub that has the cup that makes up half of the cv joint. If you have to pull a front axle, you can use this as a really expedient plug to keep the gear oil in the front dif)
auto parts store exhaust hangers
JB weld
a TON of the biggest zip ties that you can buy at lowes. I usually load up about 50 of each length. these are the ones that are as wide as your pinky.
a few spdt relays
cabin air filter
air filter
oil filter
fuel filter
coil pack
thermostat
sparkplugs (6)
Leaf spring ubolts
steering rack bolts
nut clips of various sizes
4 exhaust studs
2 qts oil
1 gal coolant
1 gal trans oil
1 qt gear oil
1 qt brake fluid
caps for brake lines
2 x 3 ft bendable brake lines w/ fittings attached
F to F brake line joint
roll of quarters (see JB weld above)
spare VHF mic
spare lenses for my offroad lights
spare vhf antenna
spare ronin oil drain
a few different sizes of gates heat shrink clamps ( for radiator and vacuum hoses)
small roll of exhaust wrap
transmission dipstick/cap
4 different size rod ends ( for my suspension )
a few exhaust clamps
rear brake line (the one that drops from the frame to the differential)
front brake line
spare front axle shaft (Driver's side)
Full spares inventory list w/ part numbers (also contains some part numbers of various things that might need to be sourced in Mexico that are generally findable at autozone.)
The driveshaft and steering rack generally stay on the chase truck. I can reconfigure things and hose clamp them into the truck though.
Everything outside of the brake lines, axle shaft, dif plug, driveshaft, steering rack, and fluids fits in a pelican vault V600 case. (I carry two of these, one for spares and one for tools)
My kit is sort of designed to be able to get a gen1 or gen2 raptor off the trail under its own power. I carry some stuff that really only works on gen1s, but it's always a group effort to keep trucks going and if I'm the only one that has it, well, you get the idea.
yes, the list is extensive. What is listed above is what I carry when heading to Mexico. This is in no way a requirement in the states, nor is it a requirement if you are near civilization.
This is for situations where the trail lead says " if you break and your truck can't get out under its own power, we will not be able to get chase and trailer to you. It will take about a month for one of the local farmers to pull your truck out via tractor to a point where a chase truck with a trailer could get to you. Please be careful, drive only what you can see and don't break your shit."
(if you're reading this Gordon, thanks for scaring the shit out of me. )
I will also say that some of these things have been added to the kit because I broke them and it sidelined me during a run, or I watched someone else get sidelined during a run because of the part.
Some may think it is overboard, but that's okay. (But i will charge you if you chastise me now, then end up needing something from my kit on a run. I accept cash and tequila as forms of payment.)
I think that's about it. I could have forgotten a few things, as I typed it out from memory. Hope this helps!
Got my new wheels shipped. Should be on the truck next week.
Signature Wheel Flagship Series FOUR. 18x9 with a Polished lip and Brushed Bronze Tinted Face. Fully forged aluminum and CNC cut setup.
Pretty stoked
View attachment 127482
Dayum, I need a set of those in that color! [emoji3590]
What is the weight of the wheels? Factory beadlocks are ~34 lbs IIRC. I have the 1552 TurboMac HD's (with fake beadlock) and I think they weigh in at 26lbs - a savings of 8lbs per corner. The new Enkeis look to be pretty light. Tires are a different story, some shop tires with weight in mind, others not so much. Aren't you going with 40" tires? Can't be light.I wish more wheel companies would get away from making fake beadlocks. All they do is add unnessary weight. Real beadlocks are even heavier and for me, are not something that I've found a need for.
Some of the lightest 17 x 8.5/9 wheels in a raptor lug pattern, that are strong enough to stand up to abuse are in the 28-30 lb per wheel range, which is okay. It just makes it difficult when running heavier, larger tires to switch to lighter wheels to offset the tire weight gain.
KR3s and 1552 traverse HDs weigh 118 ish lbs per. in comparison, the factory wheel/tire combo is right about 105 lbs.
The extra 52 lbs im spinning is equivalent to the truck itself weighing and extra 500-600 lbs, which requires an extra 40-50 horsepower to maintain the same acceleration. ( all other things remaining static).
if i was able to get my hands on a tough, strong wheel at right about 23 lbs, I could shave 20 lbs in rotating mass and be much closer to factory wheel/tire combo weight
I share the sentiment. If it’s not functional, don’t add it.I wish more wheel companies would get away from making fake beadlocks. All they do is add unnessary weight. Real beadlocks are even heavier and for me, are not something that I've found a need for.
Some of the lightest 17 x 8.5/9 wheels in a raptor lug pattern, that are strong enough to stand up to abuse are in the 28-30 lb per wheel range, which is okay. It just makes it difficult when running heavier, larger tires to switch to lighter wheels to offset the tire weight gain.
KR3s and 1552 traverse HDs weigh 118 ish lbs per. in comparison, the factory wheel/tire combo is right about 105 lbs.
The extra 52 lbs im spinning is equivalent to the truck itself weighing and extra 500-600 lbs, which requires an extra 40-50 horsepower to maintain the same acceleration. ( all other things remaining static).
if i was able to get my hands on a tough, strong wheel at right about 23 lbs, I could shave 20 lbs in rotating mass and be much closer to factory wheel/tire combo weight
What is the weight of the wheels? Factory beadlocks are ~34 lbs IIRC. I have the 1552 TurboMac HD's (with fake beadlock) and I think they weigh in at 26lbs - a savings of 8lbs per corner. The new Enkeis look to be pretty light. Tires are a different story, some shop tires with weight in mind, others not so much. Aren't you going with 40" tires? Can't be light.
I share the sentiment. If it’s not functional, don’t add it.
This is a 2 piece wheel so the hardware is functional in the sense it attaches the wheel face to the barrel.