Ajtheboiii
Member
Where did you get the inlays from?
What did you do to your Gen 3 today?
- Thread starter Antho
- Start date
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wmflyfisher
Active Member
Hood Cowl & Tailgate Set Acrylic Inlay Gen 3 2021 Raptor F150 Art - Etsy
This Bumper Stickers item by CaliDesignsLLC has 44 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Simi Valley, CA. Listed on Aug 31, 2024
www.etsy.com
I added L-Track to the bed in a couple of places. I had this in my Tundra and liked the flexibility it offers.
Materials used
2 - 6" Standard L-Track from US Cargo
1 - 48" Standard L-Track from US Cargo
M6 x 1.0 Stainless Flush Head Bolts/Screws
1.25" Diameter Fender Washers
Stainless Nylock locking nuts
Beer
Tools
T30 Torx Head
1/4 Ratchet
10mm Box wrench
Air Shim
Drill
1/4 Drill Bit
Countersink Drill Bit
Angle Grinder w/Cutoff wheel
First I removed the OEM tie downs that are in the corners of the bed. I have the Ford spray in bed liner, so I spent some time carefully removing the spray liner on the bolt heads and scoring/cutting around the tie down withing a razor. I was going to install the 6" L-Track sections in the stock locations while adding additional holes to run bolts through. I ended up cutting the 6" L-Track in half(3") and added an addition hole to each 3" section. The OEM holes are exactly 2" apart. After the additional holes were drilled and countersunk, the 3" L-Track bolts right in.
If someone wanted to use 6" sections of L-Track in the OEM locations it is possible. You can access the front of the bed underneath the truck and the rear can be accessed by removing the taillights. The OEM bolt locations have re-enforcement, so if more bolt locations are added you will want to use thick fender washers or some type of backing plate.
For the 48" L-Track it helps to get an extra set of hands to get the track in position. My son helped me with holding the track while I got it centered, marked and drilled the first hole. I used the L-Track as my drill guide, I don't trust my free hand drilling. Getting my fingers between the bed and the cab was by far the hardest part of installing the rail, I ended up using an air shim to put more space between the cab and bed. I still ended up dropping the wrench a couple of times and a few nuts, one of which I never found, so buy a couple extras if you are going to do this. I started with one hole right of center, then the far right hole, then the far left hole. Getting your hand between the cab and bed on the far right and left sides is difficult, the air shim didn't move the bed as much and the top edge of the bed is curved so there is a bigger gap to get your hands and wrench into. Prepare to loose some knuckle skin and drop a few things.
Without Air Shim
With Air Shim
Finished
Materials used
2 - 6" Standard L-Track from US Cargo
1 - 48" Standard L-Track from US Cargo
M6 x 1.0 Stainless Flush Head Bolts/Screws
1.25" Diameter Fender Washers
Stainless Nylock locking nuts
Beer
Tools
T30 Torx Head
1/4 Ratchet
10mm Box wrench
Air Shim
Drill
1/4 Drill Bit
Countersink Drill Bit
Angle Grinder w/Cutoff wheel
First I removed the OEM tie downs that are in the corners of the bed. I have the Ford spray in bed liner, so I spent some time carefully removing the spray liner on the bolt heads and scoring/cutting around the tie down withing a razor. I was going to install the 6" L-Track sections in the stock locations while adding additional holes to run bolts through. I ended up cutting the 6" L-Track in half(3") and added an addition hole to each 3" section. The OEM holes are exactly 2" apart. After the additional holes were drilled and countersunk, the 3" L-Track bolts right in.
If someone wanted to use 6" sections of L-Track in the OEM locations it is possible. You can access the front of the bed underneath the truck and the rear can be accessed by removing the taillights. The OEM bolt locations have re-enforcement, so if more bolt locations are added you will want to use thick fender washers or some type of backing plate.
For the 48" L-Track it helps to get an extra set of hands to get the track in position. My son helped me with holding the track while I got it centered, marked and drilled the first hole. I used the L-Track as my drill guide, I don't trust my free hand drilling. Getting my fingers between the bed and the cab was by far the hardest part of installing the rail, I ended up using an air shim to put more space between the cab and bed. I still ended up dropping the wrench a couple of times and a few nuts, one of which I never found, so buy a couple extras if you are going to do this. I started with one hole right of center, then the far right hole, then the far left hole. Getting your hand between the cab and bed on the far right and left sides is difficult, the air shim didn't move the bed as much and the top edge of the bed is curved so there is a bigger gap to get your hands and wrench into. Prepare to loose some knuckle skin and drop a few things.
Without Air Shim
With Air Shim
Finished
wmflyfisher
Active Member
Nice. Any pics of what you mount to it?
Just using them for tie points right now. When/If I get around to mounting L-Track to the bed floor I'll try my hand at mounting coolers, containers and a floor jack.
wmflyfisher
Active Member
Took a shot at painting the lower bumper this afternoon. It’s not a 100% match but close enough. Factory color has some slight blue metallic flakes. Worlds better than the silver. I’ll post more pics in the daylight tomorrow.
Last edited:
wmflyfisher
Active Member
More… I scuffed it with a red scotch bright pad then cleaned with alcohol. Skid will be painted a dark gray satin to match the Ford grill letters.
WestTexasRap
Member
Installed the real truck wheel well liners the other day after picking the truck up. Breeze of an install and really prefer this look over the painted wheel well.
wmflyfisher
Active Member
Did you have to unbolt the flare?
WestTexasRap
Member
Yes, you have remove the bolts in the fender flare that secure it to the quarter panel. But, you do not remove the flare at all. By removing the bolts it allows you to tuck the wheel well liner under the flare and then secure it by putting the bolts back in. You also add two threaded clips into holes that are already on the bed and secure it with two more bolts there. If you look closely above the shock solenoid and towards the back, you can see those two bolts. Took me about 30 min to install both sides. They do not touch the shocks or the wires. Pretty much a perfect fit.
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