Way to handle intercooler condensate buildup problems in 3.5 ecoboost

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chi_weezy

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With the issue stated above regarding the CAC and dew point, and the fact that quite a few people are getting hesitation, and the fact that the drilling of the weep hole supposedly works, and that the Afe intercooler has what's basically a weep hole (cmiiw) and solves the problem, it seems that this is a very likely issue. Sasquatch (dispite the fact that he is a pain in the **** and an obvious hater and shit stirrer) seems to be correct gentlemen. We'll see if I have the issue when I get my truck.

If someone can explain the difference between the afe intercooler and just drilling a weep hole in the stocker that would be great. I can add the best method to my mods list
 
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Sasquatch77

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The AFE has a manual valve so that owner can close it if desired. This is a bad idea because you NEVER want it closed. You never know when the intercooler is making condensate, so best bet is to leave it open all the time.
 

chi_weezy

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The AFE has a manual valve so that owner can close it if desired. This is a bad idea because you NEVER want it closed. You never know when the intercooler is making condensate, so best bet is to leave it open all the time.

Ya I guess unless you wanted to run the calculations regarding temp, humidity and dew point etc etc every time you want to drive your truck lol
 

smurfslayer

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Ya I guess unless you wanted to run the calculations regarding temp, humidity and dew point etc etc every time you want to drive your truck lol

c’mon. Who doesn’t want to do a little math warm up before getting into the office, or heading home from work, or off to jump a few puddles or cruise the mall parking lots?
 

kdub405

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With the issue stated above regarding the CAC and dew point, and the fact that quite a few people are getting hesitation, and the fact that the drilling of the weep hole supposedly works, and that the Afe intercooler has what's basically a weep hole (cmiiw) and solves the problem, it seems that this is a very likely issue. Sasquatch (dispite the fact that he is a pain in the **** and an obvious hater and shit stirrer) seems to be correct gentlemen. We'll see if I have the issue when I get my truck.

If someone can explain the difference between the afe intercooler and just drilling a weep hole in the stocker that would be great. I can add the best method to my mods list



There are a lot of assumptions in that statement that are not based in fact..just saying!


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chi_weezy

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There are a lot of assumptions in that statement that are not based in fact..just saying!


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I'm aware they're not all fact. Hence the "supposedlys". But with all those things mentioned, it makes sense to me that this is what causes this hesitation, and that a weep hole could potentially help the problem. Or maybe Sasquatch convinced Afe to build their intercooler with an advanced version of a weep hole? And maybe the people who have done the hole are just imagining the fix? I'm also not aware if there are people that have drilled the hole and not had the issue resolved. So there could be those people out there
 

dlbb

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yeah, the thing I’m trying to pieced together is the variables. we’re nowhere close to ambient conditions either before or after the charge cooler, but I am a little intrigued by the data. note the dates on this one: https://www.google.com/patents/US20160061100 This would be in the era of the 2015 and later trucks - it’s 2014, but by that time, dev. on the ’15 and later models was in the final stages.

best i have understood is the issues arises from extended cruse control use. never had an issue on 2 ecoboost so far. but i also don't use the cruse control.
in theory only, the cruse control uses minimal fluctuation of throttle input, hence aiding in the possibility of condensation buildup. by constantly manually adjusting throttle, it mitigates the condensation. also i think higher gear ratios help too due to higher rpm. both my trucks were 3.73 and now a 4.10. the new 10 speed cruses at a lower rpm then my 6 speed 3.73. i think there are many variables that come into play, yet i think certain configurations are less likely to have an issue. all is just theory though. i'm sure if ford knew the resolution they would resolve it. i think the active shutter were to address it as much as slight mpg increase from reduced drag.
 

solarwinds

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The AFE has a manual valve so that owner can close it if desired. This is a bad idea because you NEVER want it closed. You never know when the intercooler is making condensate, so best bet is to leave it open all the time.



Come on people read
"
Condensation Drain:
The intercooler includes a 1/8" NPT brass breather vent for automatic draining, of condensation or any type of build up inside the intercooler. For those who wish to manually drain the build up we have also included a solid NPT plug."



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---------- Post added at 03:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:59 AM ----------

Come on people read
"
Condensation Drain:
The intercooler includes a 1/8" NPT brass breather vent for automatic draining, of condensation or any type of build up inside the intercooler. For those who wish to manually drain the build up we have also included a solid NPT plug."



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And from full race
"In high humidity or rainy environments, the stock intercooler position can lead to condensation water building-up inside the stock cooler. Upon sudden acceleration and boost, this water can be introduced into the engine causing a misfire event. If you have experienced this often, we recommend using a mechanical vent-to-atmosphere BOV (blow-off valve) on the lower charge pipe, after the intercooler. These can help evacuate moisture from the charge air stream before it enters the engine’s throttle body."



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NewMetaRacing

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I have been avoiding saying anything on this topic because I really don't like to get involved in peoples conjecture, especially on the internet. I am really tired of hearing about this so here is my 2 cents...

I have been building race cars for a long time now, and our shop specializes in turbo kits. Everything from kits for already turbo vehicles to adding forced induction to a stock motor. Vehicles of all types, from 1600 hp supras to mustangs new and old, ecoboost and coyote. We are in South Florida just about the most damn humid place on earth, never had problems with water condensation buildup. Oil? For sure, some vehicles have less then optimal PCV systems but thats what a catch can is for. The idea that condensation build up is causing misfires seems hardly believable when one of the number one power adder these days is a **** kit, which is mixed 50/50 with WATER.
 

FatBuoy

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So.....who's going to be the next guinea pig to drill the hole? Someone with the issue want to buck up?

I had thought the Premium fuel had resolved mine, but it still is just not right. Admittedly, I have not taken it to the dealer yet. I am in a humid area (Dallas)
 
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