Upper control arm life span.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Jordan@Apollo-Optics

aka <b><font color='darkorange'>LSUstang05</font><
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Posts
801
Reaction score
408
Location
Houston, TX
I've had mine for about 5-7k miles and I bought them used from a friend who had them for probably close to 30-35k miles. I haven't had any issues with them, there is zero play in the bearing, and they don't grind or squeak. Once a week I make sure they are clean, spray with WD-40, and also use a little liquid graphite so mud and dirt don't stick.

They still look brand new and the mechanic I bring my truck to for any and all work says there isn't any cause for concern at this point and to keep doing what I'm doing with them.
 
D

Deleted member 12951

Guest
^^
You live in Texas. Wonder their life span in the northern states?
 

Jordan@Apollo-Optics

aka <b><font color='darkorange'>LSUstang05</font><
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Posts
801
Reaction score
408
Location
Houston, TX
^^
You live in Texas. Wonder their life span in the northern states?

Yes. Fortunately I don't have to deal with the salt like the rust belt. Sand will do incredible damage to heim joints though. The method I posted should help tremendously even for guys that have to deal with salt and ice. WD-40 is a good, low cost protectant that will help keep water out and the graphite lube (or even white lithium grease would work) will help keep them squeak free up north. Going with heim joints means you no longer have a park it and forget about it truck. It takes constant preventative maintenance to maintain them and get the most life out of them. This is one of the many reasons OEM's don't put heims on consumer vehicles. I would imagine you could easily get 20K miles out of them if you are diligent. I also can see somebody only getting one "season" out of them if they just drive it and don't do any PM on them.
 

ntm

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2011
Posts
886
Reaction score
946
Location
Alberta, Canada
Long story short, you're better off replacing with stock uca. Aftermarket upper control arms are more of a fluff piece by themselves. The spindle bends before the uca breaks usually. If you want stronger upper control arm, best to go the limit and get a matching spindle and lower control arm with all double shear mounting.
Then at least the shorter lifespan and increased maintenance due to the Heims is worth it.
 
D

Deleted member 12951

Guest
^^
So go big or go home is what you are saying. So to really take advantage of a UCA setup is spend $8k+ and just replace it all (UCA,Knuckle,LCA,Tierod,3.0's, etc) or just have planned to take smaller steps to get there eventually
 

Jordan@Apollo-Optics

aka <b><font color='darkorange'>LSUstang05</font><
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Posts
801
Reaction score
408
Location
Houston, TX

ntm

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2011
Posts
886
Reaction score
946
Location
Alberta, Canada
^^
So go big or go home is what you are saying. So to really take advantage of a UCA setup is spend $8k+ and just replace it all (UCA,Knuckle,LCA,Tierod,3.0's, etc) or just have planned to take smaller steps to get there eventually

Yes and no.
I'm saying the money spent on aftermarket uca's is usually a waste. The weakest part of the uca is the single shear mounting of the spindle. People usually buy them as a "feel good" type of mod, they do not add appreciable reliability or performance.
Spend the money on bumps, 3.0's, deavers, etc.
If you've done that already, then yes, you are much better off going with something like rogue's stage 4, rpg's bolt on mid travel, etc.
Theses are much stronger than the stock style single shear mounting used by the bolt on piecemeal "upgrades", and offer more travel as well.
I'm just saying, bang for the buck wise, the aftermarket uca's are of dubious value.
 
Top