Undercoating this weekend; What to spray?

[Mister Pinky]

What’s the concern here around undercoating the steel portions of the underbody with I.e. tectyl (same stuff that’s in the amsoil) at a reputable shop?

The AMSoil product is closer to Woolwax than Tectyl. There’s no rubberized undercoating in it.

You can buy the DIY kit off WoolWax’s website and do it yourself if so inclined. You can also e-mail them and see if they have an authorized sprayer near you. Either way, look at doing it every year.

 

[Todd Turbo S]

Has anyone here used it?

Here is a write up I posted. Can tell you it’s holding up well and the underside after 5000 miles still looks like it does in these pictures
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/posts/1446547/

 

[Mister Pinky]

I applied the AMSoil MP HD today. Definitely more liquid-y than Woolwax. It will drip and run if you spray too much in one area. According to the instructions, they recommend 2 hours to dry and 12 hours to set up completely.

By the time I was done, the first part I sprayed was already starting to set up nicely leaving a waxy layer. I sprayed everything including my wheel wells so it’ll be interesting to see how it holds up. I still plan on topcoating with WoolWax simply because it’s applied with shop air and a sprayer meaning it tends to travel far and wide into every crevice. I also have a 360 degree flexible plastic wand that I can send all up throughout the frame and anywhere hard to reach.

I’m thinking this should be a good combo. I opened up my gallon on Woolwax HV grease and good lord is that stuff thick. I painted the diff cover with a stiff brush and I am not disappointed. I’m going to go over the rear axle next weekend with it, along with the brake lines and anywhere else I feel could use it.

 

[CobraJay]

View attachment 152648 View attachment 152649 this is what i did on my f150 to protect the turbos and exhaust manifolds from splash.

Did you use 2 left's or a left/right from the ranger. The left one matches your photo but the right one looks different but the stock photos used on the web could be wrong.

 

[Flash1034]

Did you use 2 left's or a left/right from the ranger. The left one matches your photo but the right one looks different but the stock photos used on the web could be wrong.

I have the same question.

 

[2019 scott]

Did you use 2 left's or a left/right from the ranger. The left one matches your photo but the right one looks different but the stock photos used on the web could be wrong.

I used 2 of the right (passenger) side ones that i posted a picture of from rock auto. I don’t know if you can even buy a drivers side one for a ranger anymore. As the rangers got newer they revised the drivers side to a small piece of rubber and for some reason they deleted the drivers side all together in the later years.

 

[CobraJay]

Got the PN you screen grabbed from Tasca on the way, will report back when they arrive in a few weeks.

 

[FordTechOne]

Thank you! I’m still trying to make up my mind around this product. The shop appears to be very reputable based on Google reviews, and the guy said the coating holds up for 3-5 years. Maybe it’s a different rubberized solvent or whatever the word is... I don’t know. I’m just looking for a trustworthy, professionally applied solution. Because well, my Raptor has seen one winter already and it does look like cancer under there, so its second winter I’d like it to be protected.

I would never recommend any “rubberized” undercoating. The best way to describe the issue it causes is to compare it to a rubber glove with a small slit in it. As soon as you put your hand in water, it fills the glove. You can dry the outside, but the water is still underneath. Since the undercoating is being applied without full vehicle disassembly, there will always be places for water/contamination to permeate, and the sprayed areas will also eventually become damaged from road debris, further compromising the barrier.

The frame is dipped in an e-coat from the factory; Ford does not recommend any undercoating in the traditional sense. For bare metal or missing e-coat, touch it up with paint. Otherwise, the FluidFilm/Woolwax/Amsoil seems to offer the best protection against corrosion. Just not fun to work on components that have been coated with the stuff...

 

[Tr4ckD4ys]

This guy's channel here is great. In this video, he tested all the different sprays and protectants, and guess what, FluidFilm works insanely well.

 

[Mister Pinky]

I would never recommend any “rubberized” undercoating. The best way to describe the issue it causes is to compare it to a rubber glove with a small slit in it. As soon as you put your hand in water, it fills the glove. You can dry the outside, but the water is still underneath. Since the undercoating is being applied without full vehicle disassembly, there will always be places for water/contamination to permeate, and the sprayed areas will also eventually become damaged from road debris, further compromising the barrier.

The frame is dipped in an e-coat from the factory; Ford does not recommend any undercoating in the traditional sense. For bare metal or missing e-coat, touch it up with paint. Otherwise, the FluidFilm/Woolwax/Amsoil seems to offer the best protection against corrosion. Just not fun to work on components that have been coated with the stuff...

I’m actually very surprised with how the AMSoil dried up. Not sticky or tacky at all and much less messy than FluidFilm/Woolwax.

However, it’s just the base coat for me. There’s a reason I tip my techs in liquor...