Would the rest of the powertrain be able to handle that kind of power reliably for a long time? I’d assume building the tranny & swapping a new rear end might be needed at those power levels for this truck. New driveshafts, etc. as well.
I’d honestly stick around the 600rwhp mark... somebody did it with the Freakoboost kit. Made like 590rwho/640rwtq on 91 octane.
Traction bars, lightweight tires (BFG KO2), lightweight rims, & lightweight brakes could help scavenge any power lost from traction issues & rotational mass loss (1lb = 10 HP is the rule of thumb I believe).
I finally saw my first Gen1 cracked tcase housing a couple of weeks ago. I wouldn't be terribly worried.
I think the 10spd might have some TC lockup/pressure issues with a ton of HP, but in all reality, if someone goes with that much horsepower, they SHOULD be manually shifting.
the rear end 100% needs to be changed out. My factory rear end was really unhappy at 600 hp and 37s.
If the unsprung weight adage of 10HP per 1lb is accurate, My truck makes 250HP to the wheels. ( not including the heavier Rear axle, mid-travel bits and heavier front brakes. which is in no way accurate).
If you run lightweight brakes, you'll be warping rotors like a ****.
Here is some food for thought... 37" Generals on 17" method 701s are 11 lbs lighter per corner than 40" BFG KR3s on 1552 traverse HD wheels.
The 40" KR3s are a full 6 INCHES taller than the 37" Grabber X3s. Horsepower aside, I can carry TONS more speed through BIG whoops on the KR3s when compared to the generals.
My truck is materially FASTER on the 40s in reality, but on paper, it probably seems like I need a 1000hp motor to keep up with a stock raptor.
I can promise y'all that I do not struggle to keep up with a stock raptor anywhere.