The maximum interval is 150k under “normal” operating conditions; I would definitely recommend having it serviced at your mileage.
Transmission : service writer said he wasn't going to change the filter??? Is this how ford rolls?
- Thread starter thatJeepguy
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What's your opinion on the best time to change it? Half the maximum, like the oil?
To be completely transparent, I do not have any fluid analysis data to support any specific interval. I can only say the the published interval is 150k, and there is no transmission fluid interval listed within the “Special Operating Conditions” section. 75k-100k would probably be a reasonable interval for most people’s use cases.
Out of curiosity I checked on Super Duty; under “Special Operating Conditions” (heavy towing/off-road) it recommends T-Case and Axle fluid changes at 50-60k miles instead of the normal 150k, but the transmission fluid interval remains unchanged at 150k.
Good deal ,thanks Wes I appreciate it my man. I know you hate the T word. But my Tundra they didn't even want to do it at 200,000..I told them to go ahead which they did..cool thing was they asked me to watch. When they dropped the pan there was nothing at all concerning about the fluid filter or and debris. Just fluid was ready to be changed. Now its at 345,000 and still runs great. I'm curious if the raptor will be the same, I am.sure it will since I don't have any issues with it at all.
Bubbasuwannee
Full Access Member
Kind of an old thread but thought I’d throw my question here. 52k on my 2021 and looking at doing the transmission service. Having a heck of a time finding a shop or even my dealer that’s willing to do just the labor. Purchased fluid, filter and also picked up the B&M pan and dipstick. Looks like I’ll most likely end up doing it myself. Anyone here have good bad or otherwise with the B&M stuff for our 10R80? Going with Ford ULV for fluid…. Had thought about using Amsoil like my other fluids, but with these transmissions being somewhat picky, I thought it best to run the factory stuff.
OP
OP
Run factory, amsoil is not ULV. That pan requires you to drop the t case ( i think) .
Old-Raptor-guy
FRF Addict
You can get pan off without removing Tcase.
I have the BM dipstick. Set your fluid level with your original baby dipstick first. Then install the BM dipstick, check level and mark the stick. The BM doesn't have any fluid marks on it.
Bubbasuwannee
Full Access Member
Yea I saw that with the B&M stick. One of the videos I watched said it wasn't worth the hassle. The other thing I'm concerned about is getting the transmission up to the required 206 degrees to check level... mine seems really cold natured and rarely gets above 200 degrees unless I'm towing. Any thoughts on the best way to get it up to temp to check? Brake torque it?
That sounds like it might be overfilled.
Old-Raptor-guy
FRF Addict
First, do not brake torque it much or for very long. The main heat source in a transmission is the shearing of the fluid inside the torque converter.
Fluid doesn't leave the torque converter real fast (if it did it probably would not work), if you brake torque heavy for a length of time you will boil the fluid inside the torque converter, and blow your torque converter seal out.
Just to confess my sin, almost 30 years ago I did this twice. Both on days were the temp was about 10 degrees. Jump in truck, 1/4 inch of ice on the windshield freezing my ass off, certain tests can't be completed until engine gets to certain temp. Don't want to pull in the shop and choke other techs out with exhaust. So put transmission in drive, and apply throttle. About 2-3 minutes later transmission fluid everywhere. Engine never got to 70 degrees. Trans temp sensor never registered over 90 degrees.
Not putting two and two together, it happened next time about 3 weeks later.
Both times, pulled transmission to replace torque converter seal and both torque converters crazy color of purple and ballooned (expanded outward).
2nd time I figured it out.
The transmission temp required to check the transmission is because Ford wants to make sure the transmission thermostat has opened and flow has went through the cooler, this is to push any air out of the cooler. They don't want air in the cooler, you set level to the mark, you go tow, thermostat opens and fills the cooler and now you are a quart low inside the pan.
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