Transmission Fluid - Concencus?

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Proflyer

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Google is your friend for the filter/fluids. I don't have the link.

Several YT videos of how to do it, not a big deal. Helps having a lift. Also, I don't think the factory pan has a drain plug. Make sure you have a big tray to catch the fluid once you take the pan down--it'll still have a bunch in it. If you're feeling froggy, you can do what I did and drill a 1/4" hole in the factory pan in the rear driver's side corner (carefully) and then remove the dipstick and it'll drain out of that pretty cleanly.
 

sc85fiero

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Best to DIY, lazyass dealers want to flush instead of drain and replace filter. I won’t consider it at less than 100k, but I’m not towing in a hot climate, so ymmv.

Sorry but I have to LOL at this. There is so much misinformation about this transmission its not even funny. Without getting into much debate here are a few FACTS that you need to know.

1. Ford doesn't even want the filter replaced during an overhaul unless there is metallic debris in it (usually only during catastrophic failure)

2. the torque converter holds several quarts of fluid that cannot be drained with a drain and fill, but will be replaced when doing a fluid exhchange (what you're calling a flush)

3. There is a thermal bypass valve that acts as a thermostat for transmission fluid to be routed to the cooler. A fluid exchange should be done at temperature to allow fluid flowing through the cooler to clean it out.

4. These transmissions can be extremely sensitive to fluid level. The level needs to be set with the TFT at 206-215F, also they use the same dipstick for several models and applications and there is a range on the stick where your particular vehicle needs the level set at. It can't just be "on the stick".

I certainly don't blame you for not wanting a particular dealer or technician to touch your vehicle. I don't let anyone else touch mine but I have access to a lot more tools, equipment and information than the average user. I would suggest investing in the proper tools, equipment and experience or finding someone you can trust that does.

Final thought..... I am a shop foreman at a Ford dealer. A lot of what I see every day is the "weird" stuff or hard to diagnose issues. I can't tell you the amount of time something becomes broken or damaged that I can point directly to someone (a customer or a mechanic friend or whatever) doing something extremely stupid. In my line of work I see the uncommon failures, the customer that drilled a hole in their RCM trying to install rock lights throwing an intermittent airbag light, the shop that installed a tow bar to tow the car behind their RV that "rerouted" some wiring and it chafed on the edge of the radiator causing multiple electrical issues, and the "mechanic friend" that helped someone do a transmission spill and fill that put the wrong fluid in (way too thick, ULV stands for ultra low viscosity and this stuff was not) which ended up causing catastrophic internal failure (yes that actually happened).

-Joe
 

Space Ghost

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1. Ford doesn't even want the filter replaced during an overhaul unless there is metallic debris in it (usually only during catastrophic failure)
Why? How does it differ from any other filter in terms of maintenance?
I can see regularly changing it out as a waste cause not like the transmission sees as many contaminants as engine oil, but i def can see the case for a first time change esp after everything settles in after the initial wear.

My anecdotal reasoning is ive had a fluid exchange done at 30k, no issue per say other than one weird shift at hwy speed. Then at 50k i had the pan dropped and the filter changed. After that my fluid has been running 5-8* cooler in the summer heat, and my harsh shift into 5th has gone away to the point i dont even notice it anymore.

I dont plan on changing out the filter for a bit, but personally just gonna drop the pan every 20k like i do with any other one of my trucks.
 

thatJeepguy

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Sorry but I have to LOL at this. There is so much misinformation about this transmission its not even funny. Without getting into much debate here are a few FACTS that you need to know.

1. Ford doesn't even want the filter replaced during an overhaul unless there is metallic debris in it (usually only during catastrophic failure)

2. the torque converter holds several quarts of fluid that cannot be drained with a drain and fill, but will be replaced when doing a fluid exhchange (what you're calling a flush)

3. There is a thermal bypass valve that acts as a thermostat for transmission fluid to be routed to the cooler. A fluid exchange should be done at temperature to allow fluid flowing through the cooler to clean it out.

4. These transmissions can be extremely sensitive to fluid level. The level needs to be set with the TFT at 206-215F, also they use the same dipstick for several models and applications and there is a range on the stick where your particular vehicle needs the level set at. It can't just be "on the stick".

I certainly don't blame you for not wanting a particular dealer or technician to touch your vehicle. I don't let anyone else touch mine but I have access to a lot more tools, equipment and information than the average user. I would suggest investing in the proper tools, equipment and experience or finding someone you can trust that does.

Final thought..... I am a shop foreman at a Ford dealer. A lot of what I see every day is the "weird" stuff or hard to diagnose issues. I can't tell you the amount of time something becomes broken or damaged that I can point directly to someone (a customer or a mechanic friend or whatever) doing something extremely stupid. In my line of work I see the uncommon failures, the customer that drilled a hole in their RCM trying to install rock lights throwing an intermittent airbag light, the shop that installed a tow bar to tow the car behind their RV that "rerouted" some wiring and it chafed on the edge of the radiator causing multiple electrical issues, and the "mechanic friend" that helped someone do a transmission spill and fill that put the wrong fluid in (way too thick, ULV stands for ultra low viscosity and this stuff was not) which ended up causing catastrophic internal failure (yes that actually happened).

-Joe
Back on the quest to get mine done at 50k Just called a local dealership to Get estimate pf $400 for pan drop, new filter and ULv fill at 10 a qt. 2 hours of labor at 175 an hour.
 

julien194b

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That's not a F150, sorry for that, but how this guy do for transmission oil change seem the way to go :
(Probably and perhaps not excacty the same possibilities with our truck)
 

1BAD454SSv2

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Been running Redline D6 for many years in my Gen 1 . Switching to it at 50k on my Gen2 .
  • Our lowest viscosity, most shear-stable ATF for consistent operation, designed to satisfy Dexron-VI®, Mercon®SP, Mercon®LV, Honda DW-1, Toyota WS, Mercedes Benz NAG-2, ZF-LG 6, 6+ and 8 fluids, for use in automatic and manual transmissions
1714650691446.png
 

FordTechOne

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Been running Redline D6 for many years in my Gen 1 . Switching to it at 50k on my Gen2 .
  • Our lowest viscosity, most shear-stable ATF for consistent operation, designed to satisfy Dexron-VI®, Mercon®SP, Mercon®LV, Honda DW-1, Toyota WS, Mercedes Benz NAG-2, ZF-LG 6, 6+ and 8 fluids, for use in automatic and manual transmissions
View attachment 452977
That’s LV, not ULV. Not compatible with the 10 speed.
 

shigman

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When it comes to transmission fluid, why snatch complicated from the jaws of easy. Just buy the factory stuff.
 
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