Transmission Filter and Fluid Change

[Vader]

Not a hard job to do yourself. But if paying someone to do it have them drop the pan and replace the filter.

 

[mashtastic]

Just did this on my wife's truck. The gasket is reusable if its in good condition.

https://www.holley.com/products/dri...ccessories/transmission_pans/ford/parts/70394

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...T7cseAu1WMZpgWBnuCFg_mQm8-i2ernhoCwmcQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X4AXGCC/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080B4S0E/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

 

[Gary E]

Just did this on my wife's truck. The gasket is reusable if its in good condition.

https://www.holley.com/products/dri...ccessories/transmission_pans/ford/parts/70394

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...T7cseAu1WMZpgWBnuCFg_mQm8-i2ernhoCwmcQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X4AXGCC/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080B4S0E/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

All exactly what I did. And the B&M trans dipstick.

 

[mashtastic]

8 qts in the trans and the rest I put new fluid in the transfer case

 

[FordTechOne]

Ford recommends that the transmission fluid and filter be changed at 150,000 miles. They do NOT recommend fluid exchanges or flushes, because they can take debris from the pan and filter and pull it through the rest of the transmission, causing damage.

 

[New recaros]

Never use the flush machines. Consider this, if a filtering machine has a 20 micron “absolute” filter it will filter out everything 20 micron and bigger. What they do tell the common folk, is that the fluid builds up large quantities of particles smaller the 20 microns. That not only increases the viscosity but also develops an abrasive mixture.
There is a easy way if ur careful, let the truck cool an hour or so, position a pan that holds about 3-4 gallons under the pan, take you neighbor’s drill with a 1/8 drill bit and drill a small hole. Let it drain. Carefully measure everything last drop. Be precise! Again position pan, pull all bolts and remove pan and filter. Measure any additional fluid. Clean pan and take it to a weld shop for a ten second weld repair. Give them 20 bucks, clean with solvent, I use gasoline. Use only lint free fresh or freshly washed rags for cleaning. Re-install pan and filter, add back new factory fluid. Drive it to the Ford dealer and have them check the level especially if you spilled some fluid. Other wise, get a six pack with money you saved

 

[Ruger]

Never use the flush machines. Consider this, if a filtering machine has a 20 micron “absolute” filter it will filter out everything 20 micron and bigger. What they do tell the common folk, is that the fluid builds up large quantities of particles smaller the 20 microns. That not only increases the viscosity but also develops an abrasive mixture.
There is a easy way if ur careful, let the truck cool an hour or so, position a pan that holds about 3-4 gallons under the pan, take you neighbor’s drill with a 1/8 drill bit and drill a small hole. Let it drain. Carefully measure everything last drop. Be precise! Again position pan, pull all bolts and remove pan and filter. Measure any additional fluid. Clean pan and take it to a weld shop for a ten second weld repair. Give them 20 bucks, clean with solvent, I use gasoline. Use only lint free fresh or freshly washed rags for cleaning. Re-install pan and filter, add back new factory fluid. Drive it to the Ford dealer and have them check the level especially if you spilled some fluid. Other wise, get a six pack with money you saved

All that so that you don't burn your knuckles! LOL!

But the measuring advice is wise. I use two of those big plastic containers that cat litter comes in, graduated in advance in one-quart increments. That way I get real close on the refill.

Important reminder: You cannot refill the transmission with the same amount of fluid that drained out unless engine is running. If you do, you'll wind up with your expensive new transmission fluid all over the garage floor. Again, there is a cold fill measurement and a hot fill measurement.

It's not a hard job, but it's time consuming, messy (unless you have an aftermarket pan that has a real, actual drain plug), and potentially painful (unless you own heatproof gloves). There is a torque value on the pan bolts, but you can't get a torque wrench on all of the bolts because a frame member is in the way. You have to do it by feel.

 

[Gary E]

That "10 second weld repair" will probably cost a 1 hour minimum shop time of $50, $75, $100, $120?

 

[Ruger]

That "10 second weld repair" will probably cost a 1 hour minimum shop time of $50, $75, $100, $120?

Bingo!
Might as well put that dough toward an aftermarket pan with a drain plug!

 

[Richard Hinsley]

Called a couple others for the just the drop, filter and about 4qts, quoting me in the low $300s. Seems very high. I guess I’ll keep looking

Thats reasonable actually. I has a seal go bad on my 10 6.2 a d it was $1700.