Trailer scraping issues while towing.

[Pulp]

Thanks so much for the help everyone, you guys rock!

Ok, yes you guys are totally right and I do feel very stupid and slightly ticked right now for taking the dealerships word for it but the weight distribution hitch has to be the issue. It is rated at 600 lbs hitch weight and 6,000 lbs trailer weight. When I asked the guys at the dealership that installed it why it was rated lower than the trailer would weigh loaded they had like 4 guys standing around telling me that is the ideal weight rating and you don't want to go to much over or you will have other types of issues and they put the same hitch on much heavier trailers. So I totally moved that from my mind as a possible issue until now.

I will see if they will switch the weight distribution hitch out for me to see if that makes a difference and update you guys. If not I will add deavers and/or airbags and update you again.

As far as the weight, that is not the issue, I should be well in the safe zone -unless I’m missing something- in that area. I will break it down a little below if anyone is still even interested and so you can see how everything progresses as I troubleshoot this:

The weight of the trailer -xlr boost 20cb- is 4,950 lbs dry, the rzr in the back weighs 1,600 lbs, plus about 100 lbs of gear, I filled 50 gallon freshwater tank to ⅓ before the trip so assume 25 gallons (with black water), plus I put in 7 gallons of gas -the size of the rzr gas tank- so 32 x 6.3 = 205 lbs of liquid. Oh also 75 lbs for propane.

So I am not over the max tow weight limit of 8,000lbs with a total of approx. 6,830 but I like to add some lbs in my estimate just in case which is where I got the approx 7,000lb figure. So that probably isn’t the issue.

The back of the truck in this pictures is unloaded, everything is in the trailer, the truck cap weighs 150-200 lbs. So i wouldn’t think that would put me over the payload rating of 1,300 lbs as some of you presume.

---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 PM ----------

Ha, thanks dirtslinger for all the tips, great advice. I live in Springdale UT right by Zion National Park.

---------- Post added at 08:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 PM ----------

Here's all you need:
Stage 2 from RPG and the 4" bump stops. Get 1K load bars for your hitch. I'd upgrade that WDH also to a Blue Ox.
Don't be afraid to tow with the Rap, just do the things that will help its spring load (or lack of). While you'll here it's not a tow vehicle (which I agree if you're doing nothing but), it's more than capable with the proper setup. Be careful on your loads (nothing in the bed if you can help it) and get with someone who has towed so they can show you the ropes. Traveling down the road at 70+, as you described, with that set up is an accident waiting to happen. Also, since you're new to towing, you do realize that your trailer tires have a max speed rating of 60 mph. Those are trailer tires and aren't your run of the mill radials. This is where most people get themselves in trouble with trailer tires exploding or overheating.

Good luck and be safe......, it just might be me and my family coming the other way and need you to be safe first.

I might have to look into bump stop as well. Not sure to get Deaver +3 leaf springs, air bags, or bump stops first now if the upgraded load bars dont make a big enough difference... These tires are rated at 75 mph.

 

[Kowboy17]

Good news on the tires (what brand are those?). Don't forget the following for weight.
1. Propane tanks (full?)
2. Battery
3. WDH
4. Anything in the nose of the trailer
5. Clothes, dishes, etc, etc.

Believe me, it will add up quick. The trailer is weighed at the time of build and it's bare bones to say the least. When you add #1,2,3 and 4 plus your cab, you will definitely need the bigger bars and bump stops.

I pulled a trailer heavier than yours across the entire country (but within limit) and the 4" bump stops worked very well. Leveled it out along with the Blue Ox and 1K bars.
Nice looking trailer and Zion is blast to hike!

 

[guernsej]

As far as the weight, that is not the issue, I should be well in the safe zone -unless I’m missing something- in that area. I will break it down a little below if anyone is still even interested and so you can see how everything progresses as I troubleshoot this:

Payload, gross axle weight rating, and tongue weight. Between the topper and the trailer you're probably over at least one of these, if not all three.

Check your door jamb to get your axle weight rating and vehicle specific payload. Check your hitch receiver to find your max tongue weight. Go to a scale and weigh by axle to get you're rear axle and gross vehicle weight. Try and get your tongue weight around 10% of the gross trailer weight, and make sure you're not over your GVWR (7050lbs) or GAWR on the door jamb.

 

[Eagle7222]

You need to go to RVnet forums. Those dudes have a wealth of info.

And find a cat scale near you.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sasquatch77]

Thanks so much for the help everyone, you guys rock!

Ok, yes you guys are totally right and I do feel very stupid and slightly ticked right now for taking the dealerships word for it but the weight distribution hitch has to be the issue. It is rated at 600 lbs hitch weight and 6,000 lbs trailer weight. When I asked the guys at the dealership that installed it why it was rated lower than the trailer would weigh loaded they had like 4 guys standing around telling me that is the ideal weight rating and you don't want to go to much over or you will have other types of issues and they put the same hitch on much heavier trailers. So I totally moved that from my mind as a possible issue until now.

I will see if they will switch the weight distribution hitch out for me to see if that makes a difference and update you guys. If not I will add deavers and/or airbags and update you again.

As far as the weight, that is not the issue, I should be well in the safe zone -unless I’m missing something- in that area. I will break it down a little below if anyone is still even interested and so you can see how everything progresses as I troubleshoot this:

The weight of the trailer -xlr boost 20cb- is 4,950 lbs dry, the rzr in the back weighs 1,600 lbs, plus about 100 lbs of gear, I filled 50 gallon freshwater tank to ⅓ before the trip so assume 25 gallons (with black water), plus I put in 7 gallons of gas -the size of the rzr gas tank- so 32 x 6.3 = 205 lbs of liquid. Oh also 75 lbs for propane.

So I am not over the max tow weight limit of 8,000lbs with a total of approx. 6,830 but I like to add some lbs in my estimate just in case which is where I got the approx 7,000lb figure. So that probably isn’t the issue.

The back of the truck in this pictures is unloaded, everything is in the trailer, the truck cap weighs 150-200 lbs. So i wouldn’t think that would put me over the payload rating of 1,300 lbs as some of you assume.

---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 PM ----------

Ha, thanks dirtslinger for all the tips, great advice. I live in Springdale UT right by Zion National Park.

---------- Post added at 08:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 PM ----------



I might have to look into bump stop as well. Not sure to get Deaver +3 leaf springs, air bags, or bump stops first now if the upgraded load bars dont make a big enough difference... These tires are rated at 75 mph.

Now that you are converting it to a hauler, don't expect it to ride all that great or do what it was meant to do offroad.

 

[2014RubyRed]

Now that you are converting it to a hauler, don't expect it to ride all that great or do what it was meant to do offroad.

It'll be a totally cool looking F150 though.......

 

[UMKP]

Here's all you need:
Stage 2 from RPG and the 4" bump stops. Get 1K load bars for your hitch. I'd upgrade that WDH also to a Blue Ox.
Don't be afraid to tow with the Rap, just do the things that will help its spring load (or lack of). While you'll here it's not a tow vehicle (which I agree if you're doing nothing but), it's more than capable with the proper setup. Be careful on your loads (nothing in the bed if you can help it) and get with someone who has towed so they can show you the ropes. Traveling down the road at 70+, as you described, with that set up is an accident waiting to happen. Also, since you're new to towing, you do realize that your trailer tires have a max speed rating of 60 mph. Those are trailer tires and aren't your run of the mill radials. This is where most people get themselves in trouble with trailer tires exploding or overheating.

Good luck and be safe......, it just might be me and my family coming the other way and need you to be safe first.

^This. Was going to type the same advice but he beat me to it. RPG kit with the 4" bump stops, then proper WDH and 1200 lb bars adjusted properly. With this setup your Raptor will tow as good and as safely as the F-150 with max tow. Probably good for 2000-2500 lb payload. And the 4" stops can be swapped out for 2.5" in about 5 minutes.

 

[Pulp]

Now that you are converting it to a hauler, don't expect it to ride all that great or do what it was meant to do offroad.

I've heard Deaver +3 leaf springs improve the Raptor's off road prowess, air bags can be inflated or deflated depending on application, and better bump stops don't hinder off road performance. Wouldn't any of these mods significantly help with towing while making very little difference offroad?

 

[Jake17]

I'm scraping everywhere. What's the ideal solution?

SUPERDUTY

 

[DrippinRaptor]

Ugh... you bought a Raptor, not a Super Duty. May want to go trade it in....