Tie Rods?

[Aidan]

Aidan, If you factor in needing a 4 axis CNC, proper heims like FK, machined center pins with heat treat, machining individual mis-alignments, polishing, laser etching and annodizing plus product liability insurance the cost is way more than $100

For example our Tie-rods for the Raptor are less than a company like Ready Lift charges for a chevy

Readylift Chevy Silverado Steering Kit and we use far better materials.

Don't get me wrong, I'm the ultimate DIY'r and if you feel comfortable doing all the above I say go for it. They make the truck drive so much better.

Don't get me wrong. I'm certainly not trying to say that you're selling a bad product.

I totally understand where you're coming from, I understand the engineering and overhead involved and amortizing design work over large and small production runs.

Believe me, I'm a heat treating engineer and my company makes bearings and rod ends, I know what you're talking about. The major issues I have are with the 300M and anodized aluminum. I don't really see any benefits of 4340 and mild steel or 4130 tubing, seems like extra money for no benefit to me. Certainly looks nice though!

---------- Post added at 10:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:00 PM ----------

Also, out of curiosity, why do you require a fourth axis? I'm not an expert machinist, but it looks like you could do it with manual tooling if you felt like it and didn't mind wasting the time. Is the fourth axis just to save the time in making parts or is it really necessary?

 

[Yukon Joe]

Don't get me wrong. I'm certainly not trying to say that you're selling a bad product.

I totally understand where you're coming from, I understand the engineering and overhead involved and amortizing design work over large and small production runs.

Believe me, I'm a heat treating engineer and my company makes bearings and rod ends, I know what you're talking about. The major issues I have are with the 300M and anodized aluminum. I don't really see any benefits of 4340 and mild steel or 4130 tubing, seems like extra money for no benefit to me. Certainly looks nice though!

---------- Post added at 10:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:00 PM ----------

Also, out of curiosity, why do you require a fourth axis? I'm not an expert machinist, but it looks like you could do it with manual tooling if you felt like it and didn't mind wasting the time. Is the fourth axis just to save the time in making parts or is it really necessary?

The 4330 is a lot stronger than the mile A36 that is used in the stock tie rod. Also, I'm guessing the 4 axis mill is for the clevis end that attaches to the steering gear. It is a solid machined piece.

 

[Yukon Joe]

Here is a pic of one


Joe

 

[Yukon Joe]

here is a nice explanation of the different materials for those who are not enginerds.

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/drivetrain/131_1210_off_road_truck_axleshaft_facts/

 

[Aidan]

The 4330 is a lot stronger than the mile A36 that is used in the stock tie rod

A36 is actually a pretty wide open spec as I recall and not a great way to describe the material. Still, 4340 and 300M are both a lot stronger than mild steel ~1020... at least when heat treated.

Comparison of UTS:
A36 = ~60ksi
4340 = ~240ksi (800F temper)
300M = ~280ksi (600F temper)

*The 4340 and 300M are very similar materials with the differences in strength coming more from the temper temperatures than the material composition.

 

[Yukon Joe]

here is a nice explanation of the different materials for those who are not enginerds.

Damn, the link didn't work. I'll correct it tomorrow.

There is always a fine line between strength and hardness.

Joe

Link fixed in post 24.

 

[M64D RAPTOR]

I got red anodized RPG tie rods inbound!

 

[J DAMAGE]

So if we remove the laser etching and annodiezing, we could get the price to 400.00 a set. ok 450.00, thats sounds about fair.

 

[Huck]

The 4330 is a lot stronger than the mile A36 that is used in the stock tie rod. Also, I'm guessing the 4 axis mill is for the clevis end that attaches to the steering gear. It is a solid machined piece.

Really you could do all of it I'm a 3 axis lathe. That would be most efficient and economical,
4th axis is really just the sub spindle. Not too complicated. - coming from an expert machinist


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[onesickpuppy]

As much as I would like bullet proof, I know that all you will do is find the next weak link and usually those parts cost more..... I would rather have a stock one that I could beat straight or carry spare.
my $.02