This is why spacers are a bad idea. (And lots of cv axle innards pics)

[pat'sRAPTOR]

Haha yea I'm with ya on that one J the more knowledgable can tackle this one but I gave it
One hell of a try

 

[BDRAG]

What I see is its all caused by changing the STOCK angle of the shafts. Oher words, if you space the shock down it creates wear because the angle of the shafts is more, worse. At Stock position the shafts are more horizontal. So it seems to me that changing the perch also changes the angle, increases it and Top Perch will increase the angle even more.

I am sure there is an IDEAL ANGLE that these like to run at or sweep through as the suspension moves up and down. For the discusion lets say 5 degrees down from diff to hub is stock and as the truck squats and it goes full loaded it goes 10 degrees up from Diff to hub. On full droop like when ya get air it sees say 15 degrees down from Diff to Hub.

So when you change the angle of the dangle you have now got the joints running at one end of the spectrum, more in an always Droop or air angle but your just driving along so its kept at this bad angle more of the time which to me seems like it would cause more wear.

I am no enjineear but it also seems that an increased angle would cause several issues. Heat due to the angle increasing effort to drive, Seems more level would require less effort. The balls are running along in an almost unloaded movement when more horizontal and if there is angle the balls travel more and are used more. GAWD does what I am trying to say make sense? HAhahaaaaa.

I am stayin stock pertch. Better milage, less wear. HAhahaaaaaaaa.

BDRAG

 

[JRASIK_Cdub]

Great write-up. Thanks for the info!!!

 

[BIRDMAN]

Damn BigJ, you need your own "corner" of the forums, like BDRAG. Call if

BigJ's Joint - How to's, How-Don'ts, and just because I'm BigJ!

I love reading your posts!

And your truck is looking great!!!!

The BigJ Good.....Ungood! Corner.

 

[Maxx2893]

What I see is its all caused by changing the STOCK angle of the shafts. Oher words, if you space the shock down it creates wear because the angle of the shafts is more, worse. At Stock position the shafts are more horizontal. So it seems to me that changing the perch also changes the angle, increases it and Top Perch will increase the angle even more.

I am sure there is an IDEAL ANGLE that these like to run at or sweep through as the suspension moves up and down. For the discusion lets say 5 degrees down from diff to hub is stock and as the truck squats and it goes full loaded it goes 10 degrees up from Diff to hub. On full droop like when ya get air it sees say 15 degrees down from Diff to Hub.

So when you change the angle of the dangle you have now got the joints running at one end of the spectrum, more in an always Droop or air angle but your just driving along so its kept at this bad angle more of the time which to me seems like it would cause more wear.

I am no enjineear but it also seems that an increased angle would cause several issues. Heat due to the angle increasing effort to drive, Seems more level would require less effort. The balls are running along in an almost unloaded movement when more horizontal and if there is angle the balls travel more and are used more. GAWD does what I am trying to say make sense? HAhahaaaaa.

I am stayin stock pertch. Better milage, less wear. HAhahaaaaaaaa.

BDRAG

Hell if the had a perch LOWER than stock BDRAG would be THERE!!! lol

 

[INI]

lord knows i have done my fair share of CVs too.
Its like a right of passage in the Off Road Racing world.
But why do you always find Moly IN the oddest places.
(insert weird spot here)

BTW, its not hard to do, just very messy. Throw away clothes and lots of gloves. F'ing moly grease.

 

[BDRAG]

Hell if the had a perch LOWER than stock BDRAG would be THERE!!! lol

DUDE! The mud flaps would drag then. SWEET! HAhaaaaaaa. You still using that milk crate to get in and out of yours?

BDRAG

 

[ISFast]

Yep, if we're talking about the shock "cap", that's an easy fix. Just replace your cut ones with new ones from the dealership. Part number AL3Z-18A099-A and they run about $40ea (you'll need one per side).

Thanks for the part number! By chance can you get a pic of this just so when I get it in I make sure its the correct one? I don't want to get half way through and have an OH SHIT moment

 

[knine]

Nice catch. Excellent write-up and photos

 

[BigJ]

Thanks for the part number! By chance can you get a pic of this just so when I get it in I make sure its the correct one? I don't want to get half way through and have an OH SHIT moment

Damn, turns out I didn't grab a pic of it specifically. But this should get you real close:



What you're seeing here is the the cap (bottom), the wedge spacer sitting on top of it, and the three studs that all of us who installed spacers cut. So the part number I provided replaces the cap (that bottom part) and the three studs; its all one piece. You'll reuse the wedge spacer again.

Hope that helps. Basically the cap is a black base that looks like it would sit on top of the shock, and the three studs that bolt thru the shock tower on the truck.