The truth about decals

[ShowCar]

I have gotten a lot of questions regarding the decals on Raptors and their care. First you want to look at your window sticker and make sure you have Ford OEM decals on the truck and the dealer did not upsell a decal package from a local vendor. If you have OEM decals this is for you. If not I will address them later in this thread. The decals on the Raptor are pressure washer safe as long as its not above 2,000psi usually these are electric washers that come with many attachemnts. Home Depot sells a great 2,000psi washer that comes with multiple tools for washing wheel wells and so on. After the truck is washed you can clay the decals gentily just like the clearcoat on your truck because Ford OEM decals are clearcoated to give you 3/36,000 miles of warrantless claims. After the use of clay the decals can be polished with a light polish not something harsh like compounds. Next glaze the decals and remove the residue it leaves. Lastly you can use a paint sealant on them for six months of protection. Orbital polishers can be used on decals too as long as you DO NOT USE anything more agressive than a finishing pad on them than speed 5 on a PC 7424 polisher. All of our products and pads are safe on OEM decals. If you don't know how to use a polisher do not practice on a Raptor, find a beater car to practice on.

Now for the non OEM decal owners, there may or may not be clearcoat on the decals. One way to find out is to ask the dealer or decal vendor they use to find out. If they are not cleared then you can safely use any detail spray with a very low wax content like our Show Car Detail Spray. It will provide UV protection and help give the decals some gloss too. Hopefully this explains a lot to you all. If you have questions feel free to ask. Thats why we are here.

 

[Aaron]

Some great advice there, thanks! I didn't realize the OEM decals were clear coated too.

 

[ShowCar]

You are welcome. Just to be CLEAR the decals have a vinyl clearcoat on them not painted on.

 

[Maxx2893]

Thanks for the info!

I'm about to clay bar and needed to know about the decals.

Side note: do I need to wax after clay barring?

 

[Humvee21]

Thanks for the info!

I'm about to clay bar and needed to know about the decals.

Side note: do I need to wax after clay barring?

Nope. You'll get better results if you do but it's not necessary

 

[Reptar]

You absolutely SHOULD wax after claybaring. You'll have zero protection left on the paint after using a claybar. Always wax/polish after claying.

 

[M1919A2]

I apologize in advance if this sounds weird - But WHAT is 'claying'?

 

[MagicMtnDan]

"Claying" is using a clay bar

 

[ShowCar]

Clay removes bonded contaminents from paint that washing cannot. This includes fallout, brake dust, sap, and anything else I forgot. If you dont clay before you polish, glaze, and seal all you are doing is protecting the dirt stuck to the surface. We sell professional clay kits that put over the counter clay kits to shame. It costs more but the results are much better and you will get 100% of the dirt off the paint where otc will get at most 60%. Clay is all about agressiveness and the lube is all about "the wetter the better" protection from marring or scratching the surface. Hopefully this answers your question.

 

[Boss Hoss]

I know this thread is about the stickers but they are temporary no matter how you look at it esp if you drive off road much. On the ranch those things would last 5 minutes where I drive but the paint which is very hard needs to be protected!!

When I got mine I had to clay a few spots but the next step is to apply a polish I use Meguiars Show Car Glaze applied with a Makita BO6040 Makita - Search Results yes it is expensive but is fantastic being dual action. When applying the Show Car Glaze which is a pure polish the paint when you are done wiping off will look perfect and clear. I apply with a very soft finishing pad on the Makita. At this point the paint is in a unprotected state and we want to make it shine as well.. Then apply with a finishing pad Meguiars number 21 with the Makita—important step and the #21 comes off very easy if you let it cure on the paint for an hour or so depending on the temp outside. The warmer e.g. 80 degrees an hour is perfect then wipe off with a plush microfiber cloth rotating it frequently. Now the paint will look very shiny and deep plus it will be protected. You can wait a day but I only will wait a couple of hours to apply with a (I have many pads and change each time and wash all of them by hand after I am finished) finishing pad on the Makita the Pinnacle Liquid Sovereign which is a pure wax. I usually let it sit for at least half an hour and then wipe it off with a plush microfiber cloth.

After this the paint will look and feel like glass and the shine will be deep. My truck gets waxed with the Pinnacle once a month (did it yesterday in fact) and it not only look good but protects from almost all scratches from the ugly things at the ranch. Have perfected this over the years but it is the best way I know to keep it looking as good as possible and more importantly protecting it. I am on the highway a lot driving back and forth and when the paint has been protected it will also provide protection helping to keep rock/sand from damaging the paint. Lot easier for an object to hit and slide off than hit scratch and if the paint is protected and not open so to speak.

This is just the way I do it and yes I know most people do not care for their vehicles like I do BUT ---- keep the paint looking new and it will stay that way!