The Synthetic Switch - Blend First?

[SilverBolt]

The best part of synthetic is at cold start up. It does not react the same way dino oil does to cold and hot. When cold it circulate much quicker and on the hot end it has a much higher maximum temperature before breaking down.

 

[BOJANGLES]

If I switch to full synthetic, does it make sense to open up both ends and do an oil flush with a 1/2 qt. - 1 qt. of synthetic before loading in new synthetic, or is that just a waste of $$?

 

[SilverBolt]

Bo,
I wouldn't worry about a flush when switching. Drain it the best you can and reload with syn. There won't be anu negative reactions between the dino residue and the new syn.

 

[iceman302]

A lot of people switch from conventional to synthetic oil. On bikes it's generally recommended to go from conventional to PART synthetic first, and then to FULL syn on the next change. Anybody ever heard of this being applied to v8's?

I followed this for my bike but never for my cage's. I've never noticed any difference, but I was wondering if there's anything to it.

I'm confused. The recommended oil in my owner's manual is Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend. I'm assuming the factory fill is the same.

 

[swoop1156]

I'm torn on this and making the switch. Allow me to tell you a story...

A long time ago, we had a Ford Explorer. We ran what the factory recommended at that time, whatever it was. Something happened in the engine and the engine had to be replaced under warranty. They sampled the oil to be sure that it was "within specs" for amount and type.

Fast forward to now-a-days. I was talking to my service adviser buddy and he stated that if there is any engine trouble that requires parts or whatever to be replaced, the first thing they do is check the oil for amount and type. He said that to be on the safe side -- run the factory 5w-20 Synthetic Blend from Motorcraft (sure, it could have been some BS marketing ploy) or possibly work could be voided on the engine for warranty.

I'll definitely take the time to research this before I come back in here and say more, but I just wanted to share my experience and what I've been told. I am sure that there is something in writing about this someplace.

Please discuss.

 

[SOCOMech]

I'm torn on this and making the switch. Allow me to tell you a story...

A long time ago, we had a Ford Explorer. We ran what the factory recommended at that time, whatever it was. Something happened in the engine and the engine had to be replaced under warranty. They sampled the oil to be sure that it was "within specs" for amount and type.

Fast forward to now-a-days. I was talking to my service adviser buddy and he stated that if there is any engine trouble that requires parts or whatever to be replaced, the first thing they do is check the oil for amount and type. He said that to be on the safe side -- run the factory 5w-20 Synthetic Blend from Motorcraft (sure, it could have been some BS marketing ploy) or possibly work could be voided on the engine for warranty.

I'll definitely take the time to research this before I come back in here and say more, but I just wanted to share my experience and what I've been told. I am sure that there is something in writing about this someplace.

Please discuss.

If a dealer tells you that, you know they're some picky dudes over there. I'd never seen a different grade of oil being the reason that someone was denied warranty coverage.....unless they were waaaay off like running 15-40 or something. I can say that the sohc 4.0 found in Explorer's and Ranger's were a biiiit testy on the tolerances, that's why they called for 5-30 where as most everything else was 5-20.

I used to run Mobile 1 full synthetic in my SVO Mustang, but that had a good amount of miles and a turbo, deff. made a difference in that though. I've since been a big fan of good ol' Motorcraft synthetic blend in my Ranger and Raptor. Not a full synthetic but the price is nice, it's what's recommended (even though that doesn't really bother me) and I've never seen or heard anything negative about it.

 

[IH-Scout_800A]

Factory fill from FOMOCO is a Syn blend which is a 80/20 (Syn / Dino). I would be hard pressed to believe there is any difference in a full Syn oil. The Ford Semi Syn is a heck of a product. Honestly 80/20? I'd like to see the math on what you get for the other 20%. IMO... BTW For the $35 the stealership charges for an oil change...I'll let them do it all day long.

 

[JP7]

Factory fill from FOMOCO is a Syn blend which is a 80/20 (Syn / Dino). I would be hard pressed to believe there is any difference in a full Syn oil. The Ford Semi Syn is a heck of a product. Honestly 80/20? I'd like to see the math on what you get for the other 20%. IMO... BTW For the $35 the stealership charges for an oil change...I'll let them do it all day long.

My last oil change at Ford, Full Synth, was $177.00 including the damn $12.00 environmental fee...
Once things thaw out here a bit, I'll go back to doing them myself and save $100.

 

[iceman302]

My last oil change at Ford, Full Synth, was $177.00 including the damn $12.00 environmental fee...
Once things thaw out here a bit, I'll go back to doing them myself and save $100.

That's retarded expensive!

 

[BDRAG]

On bikes you do the transition so the wet clutch doesn't start slipping. Even that is becoming old school. Now most bikes with integrated transmissions use full syn from new.

Bikes with WET clutches need to make sure the Synthetic has NO friction Modifyers. Mobil One has a V TWIN type thats a WET CLUTCH version. Works Great in the Buell. Lot of Motorcycles are o.k. with the Shell Rotella T Syn. Most All Deisel oil should be fine in a bike. High Sulfer and so On I think.

So on the Oil Thread, Mobil One O.K. to use> I have it in The CRV and had it in my Fx4. Its in the Buell now as well. 0-20 wt correct?

BDRAG