The Differing Modes of the Raptor

[07Alloy]

BigJ....Its a 2010. I am going to try it out more this weekend coming up. If I cant get it all to turn off then I will be off to the dealer. I am already thinking of scheduling a dealer appt because my shocks in the front rattle and my driveshaft clunks. Already had them look at the driveshaft and they wouldnt do anything but its driving me nuts.

 

[BigJ]

^^Ah man that sucks. I hope they take care of you.

Hey one thing to be sure of is the order in which you do things. I know you probably know all this but just in case, do the squiggly line 10sec press thing as the very last thing you do. If you do it first, depending on what you do next you could turn it right back on again without knowing it.

If I'm going for broke, I'll come to a full stop, leave it in drive, set the transfercase and locker like I want, then go into offroad mode and THEN hold the button for 10.

Maybe that will help? Either way good luck and keep us posted on how it goes, and if needed how the dealer treats ya.

 

[Raptoyd11]

What year? I can absolutely confirm 100% all 'nannies' are disable-able on the 2010. Can't say for sure on any other year. If you have a 2010, and you cannot disable the nannies, I'd say its time for a dealer visit.

Pretty sure my 11 behaves the same way. I found this out the same way others did on here by flying across a field at my buddies farm and tried to throw her into a hard spin and it just dogged as I assume the nannies took over. After doing some reading and making a few adjustments I was carving figure 8's .

 

[Maxx2893]

my friend tell me he use 4-Hi when they're driving in tight twisty soft stuff so the front wheels help preserve traction and do some pulling around the curves. When it really is a lot more open terrain he'll run 2WD with the locker on after which can slide the Raptor (kind of an oversteer) rear end around the turns undertaking a lot more steering using the skinny/go pedal.flip down monitors

Why is there a link in here

 

[kawie95]

OFFROADING:

Settings
4x4 high, offroad enabled, traction control off, rear diff locked.

Put my mirrors in, they are $800-900 each.

Close the sun roof- On jumps it makes a horrible slapping sound on the roof. It also lets in TONS of dust.

Roll up your windows- Dry lake bed sliding kicks up all kinds of silt and it goes all over inside the truck right in your face. Not cool. And it gets on my dash gage plastic and when I wiped the dust offf once offroading it scratched the crap out of the plastic. Bad move.

Transmission (mode/temp):
I also use manual mode (select shift). This keeps my temp below ~230F when driving hard, if it creeps up I cruise for a bit to about 210 or 220 then its back to raptoring!

I notice that automatic vs select shift gets hotter (230+) offroading.

I suspect this is due to:
1) The torque converter working hard in the automatic mode
2) Lower RPMS - bogging- heavy load on the transmission vs having the power to pull-which I think puts more strain on the the transmission (I could be wrong)
3) Frequent down shifts and upshifts- rather than have a steady pace and crusing at high RPMs.

Just my thoughts- but I have noticed a temp difference between auto and select shift, but I don't know a lot about transmissions.

RPMs
I keep my truck always above 3k RPM so I have power to dig in the rear tires when navigating turns so the tires dig in and get traction. Sometimes you do have to slow down for turns, but its rare

Mods
The Henessey intake and chip really helped out, but its not offroad worth for me (see my other threads). There was a lot more crisp throttle response that I loved. I am back to stock now, so we will see how it does in the dirt again.

Technique (or what not to do)
Dont take whoops bigger than 1ft going over 50mph. Unless its like 1 random whoop with none behind it. Also if theres a bunch of 1ft whoops, and one 1 1/2ft whoop or bigger, you can hit that bigger one hard, as long as there are not others behind it (dont land in whoops- its baaaad).

If you do find yourself going too fast in the whoops, and they are too big, your screwed. DONT slam on the brakes and pitch it sideways- thats how I bend my passenger side rear axle.

When in the mud, be careful in 2wd mode on roads. The AT TA KO's build up with mud and are like ski's. 4wd you can floor it, break the mud loose, and steer to safety (once you slow down from flooring it- its pretty crazy so be careful). In AZ, I was flying down a muddy powerline road and slid right off, in 4wd. So sometimes you just gotta be careful in all modes, etc. (unless you have bad ass mud tires- then maybe)

Care
Never NEVER rub the dirt off the car. Dont let people write on it, dont let people lean on it. I was told its like taking sandpaper to the paint. Just pressure wash it when you get home so you dont rub dirty sponges on it and scratch the paint.

If you take it to the dealer, pressure wash underneath the truck to hide "abuse". Remove twigs, dirt/mud (rear bumper, running boards, spare tire, etc. are some common places that have a lot of buildup of mud. I like to wipe off the shock guards too because they look like the surface of the moon on the plastic.). Front skid plate they like to point out as a point of abuse as well.

ONROAD:
Anyone know how to smoke the tires on the street with this thing? I told my buddy its impossible unless you find some slick pavement or in the rain, etc. but he said its possible (he doesn't know much about the raptors). Thoughts? (besides "Don't smoke the tires you idiot")

Warning about all the tips above
This is just my experience, and I have broken some stuff- and probably things I dont know about. But I like to push the limits- and I accept the consequences (sometimes).

 

[JP7]

^^Ah man that sucks. I hope they take care of you.

Hey one thing to be sure of is the order in which you do things. I know you probably know all this but just in case, do the squiggly line 10sec press thing as the very last thing you do. If you do it first, depending on what you do next you could turn it right back on again without knowing it.

If I'm going for broke, I'll come to a full stop, leave it in drive, set the transfercase and locker like I want, then go into offroad mode and THEN hold the button for 10.

Maybe that will help? Either way good luck and keep us posted on how it goes, and if needed how the dealer treats ya.

Amen to that. Also, if you shift between 4H and 4L or 2H, Offroad Mode to T/H etc - assume it has reset and you will have to disable it again.

 

[Squatting Dog]

there is no one best setting for the Raptor.. It is very versitile and depending on the enviroment/driving conditions/drivers skill.. What works in the mud will bury you in the desert. The best thing is to drive, and try everything.. It will very day to day.. the first day at the raptor run.. offroad mode, automatic, locker locked and 2wd worked great.. the next day after the track became chewed up by the class 1 buggy, putting it in offroad mode manual shifting worked better because of the ruts and washboards. The next day on the same track, it was 4wd, offroad mode manual shifting, and sport mode because the track was so muddy.. the sport mode still allowed the truck to rotate, but kept it from over rotating in the mud because of lack of counter steering response in the big washes..
Call it driver inexperience or whatever, it was a lot faster around the course with sport mode on than traction control completely off. The point is, I learned a lot over that weekend what worked great for me in Missouri wasn't worth a crap in Texas.. After fiddling with the settings I was able to get the truck to the way I am used to..

 

[kawie95]

there is no one best setting for the Raptor.. It is very versitile and depending on the enviroment/driving conditions/drivers skill.. What works in the mud will bury you in the desert. The best thing is to drive, and try everything.. It will very day to day.. the first day at the raptor run.. offroad mode, automatic, locker locked and 2wd worked great.. the next day after the track became chewed up by the class 1 buggy, putting it in offroad mode manual shifting worked better because of the ruts and washboards. The next day on the same track, it was 4wd, offroad mode manual shifting, and sport mode because the track was so muddy.. the sport mode still allowed the truck to rotate, but kept it from over rotating in the mud because of lack of counter steering response in the big washes..
Call it driver inexperience or whatever, it was a lot faster around the course with sport mode on than traction control completely off. The point is, I learned a lot over that weekend what worked great for me in Missouri wasn't worth a crap in Texas.. After fiddling with the settings I was able to get the truck to the way I am used to..

Sport mode offroading is actually useful? Does anyone else have this experience?

 

[Madcowranch]

Sport mode offroading is actually useful? Does anyone else have this experience?

There's 'Street Sport' and 'Off-Road Sport'. The difference is whether or not O/R mode is selected. Greg was probably referring to 'Street Sport'.

http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WOAF12/~MUS~LEN/36/10f12rp3e.pdf

So looking at this, I just noticed that if you're not in Off-Road mode and do the 10 second AdvanceTrac disable, it reverts to single-press AdvanceTrac mode when you excede 35 mph. Interesting. Learn something every day...

 

[Squatting Dog]

With traction control fully engaged, the truck clamps down hard on any chassis excitement, killing engine power and locking things down. In Sport mode, however, things can get really, really crazy. The system opens up the yaw limit for righteous oversteer and significantly loosens the ABS threshold. This is one of the few instances where a vehicle performs better in sport mode than with the nanny systems fully defeated. With all the nannies killed it's really easy to overcook a gravel apex or find yourself facing the wrong way against a one-way tree.

Try it and I promise you will be surprised by the improvement when playing in the mud.. (live in Missouri, that is all I have to play in)