GEN 1 Tail Lights Keep Failing

[emerald_nomad - RLTW]

This is def a weird one. I'd say make sure you're not touching the bulb with your bare hands (sounds dumb, but the oils from your fingers...etc. you get it.) but that'll rule out the bulbs burning out prematurely from your oily fingers. (wear gloves). But the "popping out" part is what's weird?? I wonder if there's a spike occurring causing them to blow and "pop out"? Can you verify you have the correct fuse in?

 

[yoopercharged]

This is def a weird one. I'd say make sure you're not touching the bulb with your bare hands (sounds dumb, but the oils from your fingers...etc. you get it.) but that'll rule out the bulbs burning out prematurely from your oily fingers. (wear gloves). But the "popping out" part is what's weird?? I wonder if there's a spike occurring causing them to blow and "pop out"? Can you verify you have the correct fuse in?

Alright so I've definitely been handling the bulbs with oily fingers so that could be the source I suppose? I did take a look at the fuse box. Both sides are on 15A fuses which appear to be in good shape.

Below is a look at the socket discoloration. All 4 look the same. Also, previous owner put in LED reverse bulbs but I wouldn't expect those to have any impact on the taillight bulbs.

 

[Vash]

If your fuses are good, you can try replacing the bulb socket itself. Most full LED replacement tail lights plug directly into the connector that’s attached to the socket/bulb holder. Otherwise, just check your wiring and grounds in case something is shorting intermittently. Granted, I’d think that would pop a circuit.

 

[Ruger]

I believe that the oily finger issue pertains only to halogen bulbs.

 

[FordTechOne]

I believe that the oily finger issue pertains only to halogen bulbs.

True. I suppose it wouldn’t hurt to wear gloves with all bulbs though regardless, they get pretty hot.

Repeat bulb failure is typically high resistance at the bulb socket. Meaning the contacts between the socket and bulb are getting excessively hot. With the number of repeat failures I’d replace the pigtails for all of the affected bulbs. Be sure to use a small amount of dielectric grease on the contacts.

If you have ForScan, also check for BCM DTCs. The bulbs are powered by a transistor in the BCM, not a fuse.

 

[yoopercharged]

True. I suppose it wouldn’t hurt to wear gloves with all bulbs though regardless, they get pretty hot.

Repeat bulb failure is typically high resistance at the bulb socket. Meaning the contacts between the socket and bulb are getting excessively hot. With the number of repeat failures I’d replace the pigtails for all of the affected bulbs. Be sure to use a small amount of dielectric grease on the contacts.

If you have ForScan, also check for BCM DTCs. The bulbs are powered by a transistor in the BCM, not a fuse.

Awesome, thanks for the insight! I do have a ForScan adapter, haven't used it yet but should be able to figure it out this weekend. I assume those DTCs won't display on the dash?

 

[badm0t0rfinger]

True. I suppose it wouldn’t hurt to wear gloves with all bulbs though regardless, they get pretty hot.

Repeat bulb failure is typically high resistance at the bulb socket. Meaning the contacts between the socket and bulb are getting excessively hot. With the number of repeat failures I’d replace the pigtails for all of the affected bulbs. Be sure to use a small amount of dielectric grease on the contacts.

If you have ForScan, also check for BCM DTCs. The bulbs are powered by a transistor in the BCM, not a fuse.

I don't know if its SOP for you, but we always wear gloves when handling bulbs. LED enclosures you might get away with it, but generally they recommend alcohol pads if you think skin oils get onto the bulbs regardless.

 

[Vash]

@yoopercharged Only certain types of DTCs trigger a dash light and usually only after a certain threshold is reached. Forscan will allow you to query every module in the truck for currently trending and permanent DTCs. You’ll mainly be interested in those associated with the BCM. It’s pretty detailed. A while back I even saw all the DTC codes from when I temporarily disconnected my side mirror glass to install sequential LED signals in the front and rear of the mirror.

Once you find a pertinent DTC that is actionable, you can execute the fix and then clear the DTCs to see which ones come back if any. Forscan is an invaluable troubleshooting tool that I wish I would’ve started using sooner. It saves you time by allowing more pinpoint testing vs. trial and error guesswork.

 

[FordTechOne]

Awesome, thanks for the insight! I do have a ForScan adapter, haven't used it yet but should be able to figure it out this weekend. I assume those DTCs won't display on the dash?

Nope, lighting DTCs don’t set an instrumentation indicator.

 

[mashtastic]

I’ve had a problem with led bulbs burning out after a few months. Ultimately I believe the grounding point/connection has gone weak from years of you name it. I’ve regrounded/ cleaned up all of the (-) points I could find and haven’t had a problem since