Surprising issue after Icon leaf springs install

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Yes. I got them from the printed Icon instructions.
Their instructions are known to be wrong and I called their tech support on it. Told that they should just say torque them to OEM specs and leave it like that. They agreed and said they would change it, they never have.

On the GEN1 leaf springs, it also says to torque them to the same. But the torque specs are 258lb-ft for the front bolt and 136lb-ft for the shackle bolts. The only torque values that I use from ICON is the torque on their own hardware but never on the OEM stuff. I am pretty sure the torque on this is the same as the GEN1 but trying to confirm because I want to know too.
 
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7six2

7six2

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Their instructions are known to be wrong and I called their tech support on it. Told that they should just say torque them to OEM specs and leave it like that. They agreed and said they would change it, they never have.

On the GEN1 leaf springs, it also says to torque them to the same. But the torque specs are 258lb-ft for the front bolt and 136lb-ft for the shackle bolts. The only torque values that I use from ICON is the torque on their own hardware but never on the OEM stuff. I am pretty sure the torque on this is the same as the GEN1 but trying to confirm because I want to know too.

Wow. Thats good to know! I hope this is my issue. I'll hit it with the torque wrench again today and report back.
 
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Rick@FreedomMotorsports

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Wow. Thats good to know! I hope this is my issue. I'll hit it with the torque wrench again today and report back.

The ICON instructions are WRONG. The front bolt is 258 and the shackle bolts are 173.
Here is the Ford tech manual on the leafs. Ford recommends the shackle bolts/nuts replaced too.
Use ICON torque specs on the u-bolts only, those are different u-bolts than OEM.
Glad to help
 

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  • 2018 F-150 leaf spring.pdf
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Rick@FreedomMotorsports

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Ok so it’s not the typical bump stop clank then.

looking at the icon page the leaf seems to have the same gap in the leaf strap, this seems bizarre to me

View attachment 155795

The leaf straps are meant to keep the leafs in line and not to move sideways or slip out of the straight orientation. The gaps means nothing and its meant for the leafs to give some up and down when its flexing.
 
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7six2

7six2

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Ok fingers crossed but I think we solved it. I torqued everything to the higher specs and did a quick test drive. I hit some speed bumps and then hit a row of those parking space stoppers and I'm NOT hearing the noise anymore. I'll be more sure come Monday since the roads I travel are bad and have several railroad crossings. Big thanks to you guys taking the time to read my posts and offering advice!!!
 
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Deleted member 12951

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Ok fingers crossed but I think we solved it. I torqued everything to the higher specs and did a quick test drive. I hit some speed bumps and then hit a row of those parking space stoppers and I'm NOT hearing the noise anymore. I'll be more sure come Monday since the roads I travel are bad and have several railroad crossings. Big thanks to you guys taking the time to read my posts and offering advice!!!
After 100 miles, you want to re-torque everything. I prefer to use loctite too
 

GCATX

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The leaf straps are meant to keep the leafs in line and not to move sideways or slip out of the straight orientation. The gaps means nothing and its meant for the leafs to give some up and down when its flexing.
Truth. I would say if the strap is dragging on the exhaust, I would be comfortable grinding some of the strap off.

Beyond that, did you have the full weight of the truck on the springs when you torqued the bushings down?
 
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7six2

7six2

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Truth. I would say if the strap is dragging on the exhaust, I would be comfortable grinding some of the strap off.

Beyond that, did you have the full weight of the truck on the springs when you torqued the bushings down?

Yes final torque applied with the truck on its own weight
 
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