Stock tune very safe in the Heat

[Rednose]

I believe the UAE rates their fuel octane using the same method as Europe and Japan; it’s simply based on Research Octane Number (RON). In North America, octane is calculated using as an anti-knock index, which is obtained by averaging RON and Motor Octane Number (MON).

So, your 95 octane is approximately equivalent to 89/90 octane in the US/CAN. Further, MON is calculated using a higher engine speed, Preheated combustion chamber, and variable spark timing...all conditions that would affect your vehicle performance in the conditions you describe, but are not figured into the octane (RON).

Do you have 98 RON available? That might make quite a difference.

Thanks for the info I thought they were calculated the same way.

And very true it will affect in performance and might reduce the engine heating but it will not eliminate it. I tried every trick in the book other than raising my heads with a metal gasket but nothing worked.

The best combo that worked for me so far was the Full race radiator with Wail IC and the SPD T state.

My over heating problem comes when I am full on the throttle for good 5 mins but as soon as I am off the throttle is drops and goes back to normal.
I mean no one here could figure it out including the dealer and this why I changed my driving style a bit just to keep those temps normal.


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[FordTechOne]

Thanks for the info I thought they were calculated the same way.

And very true it will affect in performance and might reduce the engine heating but it will not eliminate it. I tried every trick in the book other than raising my heads with a metal gasket but nothing worked.

The best combo that worked for me so far was the Full race radiator with Wail IC and the SPD T state.

My over heating problem comes when I am full on the throttle for good 5 mins but as soon as I am off the throttle is drops and goes back to normal.
I mean no one here could figure it out including the dealer and this why I changed my driving style a bit just to keep those temps normal.


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I'm willing to bet the higher octane will make a very big difference. When the PCM detects knock and retards timing, cylinder temperatures increase dramatically. During normal driving, this would be noticeable as a loss of power, but not an overheat condition. When you're running wide open throttle in high temperature conditions, I don't think any cooling system upgrade would be capable of eliminating the excessive heat generated by the retarded ignition timing.

Do you have access to 98 RON and/or an octane booster additive?

 

[Oldfart]

Thanks for the info I thought they were calculated the same way.

And very true it will affect in performance and might reduce the engine heating but it will not eliminate it. I tried every trick in the book other than raising my heads with a metal gasket but nothing worked.

The best combo that worked for me so far was the Full race radiator with Wail IC and the SPD T state.

My over heating problem comes when I am full on the throttle for good 5 mins but as soon as I am off the throttle is drops and goes back to normal.
I mean no one here could figure it out including the dealer and this why I changed my driving style a bit just to keep those temps normal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How about a pic of what you are driving on when you are wide open for 5 minutes? A dry lake bed maybe?

 

[Rednose]

How about a pic of what you are driving on when you are wide open for 5 minutes? A dry lake bed maybe?

It basically like sand highway in Glamis with a softer sand. I wish videos were easier to load.
But here is a pic that might give you an idea.




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[Rednose]

I'm willing to bet the higher octane will make a very big difference. When the PCM detects knock and retards timing, cylinder temperatures increase dramatically. During normal driving, this would be noticeable as a loss of power, but not an overheat condition. When you're running wide open throttle in high temperature conditions, I don't think any cooling system upgrade would be capable of eliminating the excessive heat generated by the retarded ignition timing.

Do you have access to 98 RON and/or an octane booster additive?

The Highest I could get would be 98 I’ll try running it but now it really to hot to even to try to go to the dunes and push the truck it’s 113 F already.

But I do understand your point on better fuel.
Here is question since I was thinking of it
Would **** help in the reduction of the heat soak or will at least give more play time ?


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[Deleted member 17706]

And I still have the overheating issue on full throttle with the above mods,so I just learned how to drive the truck in these conditions.

I was going to message you back on our private message conversation (thanks for the info by the way), but I will just ask on here. What exactly is overheating: radiator, transmission, or both?

 

[nikhsub1]

For sure it would help - you could look into water injection as well.

http://www.aquamist-direct.com/aquamist-all/

 

[Oldfart]

It basically like sand highway in Glamis with a softer sand. I wish videos were easier to load.
But here is a pic that might give you an idea.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks like a GREAT time!

 

[FordTechOne]

The Highest I could get would be 98 I’ll try running it but now it really to hot to even to try to go to the dunes and push the truck it’s 113 F already.

But I do understand your point on better fuel.
Here is question since I was thinking of it
Would **** help in the reduction of the heat soak or will at least give more play time ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm probably not the best guy to ask about ****/water injection; I understand the principles of those systems but I'm not very familiar with specific applications.

Once the ambient temps cool off, I would try the higher octane fuel first and see how it responds. Do you have ForScan available to reset KAM? The PCM is quick to learn lower octane, but not nearly as quick to learn when higher octane is added. KAM reset will start the PCM off from a clean slate, so you won't get skewed results due to the PCM pulling timing based on the expected results of the previous fuel used.

 

[TurboTJ]

The best combo that worked for me so far was the Full race radiator with Wail IC and the SPD T state.

My over heating problem comes when I am full on the throttle for good 5 mins but as soon as I am off the throttle is drops and goes back to normal.

Do you have the AC on during this time?

This is why my plans are to put a stock sized intercooler in the grill that’s maybe half as tall as the FullRace/Cobb versions. This will provide uninterrupted flow to the tranny cooler and half the radiator/AC condenser while still providing better performance than the stock IC (and a spot to mount a winch). I’m also hoping that the size being similar will mean that the stock tune will be a good fit. Many OEM cars are built this way. Should also be more warranty friendly than the Cobb.

I also noticed that Shelby was testing a front mount IC like the Cobb version but ultimately left the IC in its stock location for the production version. They specifically mention driving in sand in the middle East with the AC on. I think this is a very stressing case - high throttle at low speed with high drag.