SnoBall Preparations?

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SuperRaptor

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Me and my Dad both have the 52K 30' bubba rope. He also bought 2 of the gator jaw soft shackles, but, we have not used them yet.

My bubba rope has been used quite a few times now.

Since I've forgotten. Lights on Dad's truck. We came up with the bracket designs, I ended up doing most of the welding.

The bracket ties in to the top of the radiator support where the horn would normally attach, too.

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The 2x2 cubes around the license plate.
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Two 11" and a 30" around the FORD letters to cut down on light lost to the grill.
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That looks really nice. I wish someone made brackets so you could mount a 30" single row that shot through this gap.
 

BramageDained

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You don't need a bracket. You just drill two holes in the metal brace.

I think the bouncing would bother me. The hood bounces and moves enough as it is, and a 30" seems fairly heavy to add to it. The grille flexes pretty easy on those two brackets relative to the rest of the hood, too.

We debated doing that on Dad's truck then decided against it and instead ended up making that bracket instead.

I wish I would have taken a picture of it after I painted it and cleaned up all the edges with a grinder. It turned out really nice.
 
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Deleted member 12951

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I've got a 30 mounted to the grill supports. It doesn't budge or bounce one bit.

Yep, not a single problem on mine either. I don't think a bracket is a bad idea at all, I just like that I just had to drill two holes and it goes all the way across and looks visually pleasing to me overall.
 

Hole Shot

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Shook down my new suspension had to remove the sway bar. Blew out the fender liner again.
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the LCA's are not meant to have a sway bar mounted there but I had to try.
The new fox 3.ohs really are a game changer !!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

BramageDained

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Well, I changed from blue to yellow. It looks good, but, didn't go according to plan.

The reason I changed in the first place, is that now that I'm a MN resident I have to follow MN's rules and blue lights of any kind are illegal, even if not in use if someone wanted to be a **** about it.

Anyway, the Tamiya transparent yellow is perfect. to give yellow light.

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I tested the citrus paint stripper on another piece of the acrylic I made the covers out of, and actually let it soak in the stuff for several hours when it nearly instantly would let me remove the blue paint.

No issue.

The paint itself also caused no issue on the plastic-including the sample that had sat in the stripper for hours.

However, some combination of the intense light or heat while the paint was not dry yet shocked the acrylic. Now I have to make new ones.

I'm just going to go buy a sheet of Lexan(regular polycarbonate) instead of the OptiX(acrylic) sheet that I used/have.

The acrylic is harder and like 2% better at light transmission, but, kind of brittle. It would probably hold up better in the long run.

Lexan is just much easier to work with. a 12"x24"x.093" sheet is only $15 at home depot.
 
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