cayenne
Full Access Member
Good lord man, looks good!
SitDown's Build
- Thread starter Sitdown
- Start date
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How did you sucker some idiot into buying your old wheels. What a jamook!
OP
OP
Updated a few things since…
Bumpers are still a work in process, but had enough done to slap them on the night before Havoc in the Hills, where they fared great…since survived a trip to the dunes too. Still a bit to do on them, the skid was just temporary, will be trimmed down to fit under the top bar and a 2nd bend to attach to lower skid. I learned I need a good brace to avoid the sagging lip look, and the rear bumper is getting a couple more tubes as well. Real anxious to finish it up and get it to lineX
Added Light canons up on the hood, and Amber spot D2s to the bumper... 3rd from left
With more lighting, needed more switches. I really liked Big Blue's clean upfitters in his bezel nook, sought to do the same to my right side hole. Really should have just added generic switches in the center console, as this project spiraled into some serious hackage. The dash support frame also came into play, so safe to say I would not recommend using the right side w/ the bulky factory switch panel.
The dash support was a tough angle to hit even with a dremel (actually nicked the corner as seen, but luckily that is covered by the other trim). In true hackmanship I made a cut and beat it back. Love swinging a 5lb hammer inches from an exposed nav screen.
Conveniently, since I was in there I was finally able to fix my front camera wiring, now accessible from the top dash opening. One upfitter now locks the front camera on.
Having changed my lighting around several times, I probably have 100yards of old unused wire in shared loom covers. Anticipating future changes, made an easy access panel for the new bank of switches, which should simplify change next time. It bolts in right above the glovebox, tucking in behind the airbag and bolts to the factory 7mm dash screws.
Being in wiring mode, I swapped in the ****** live hardwire kit for my max, and in the process added a ricer detector kill switch
Bumpers are still a work in process, but had enough done to slap them on the night before Havoc in the Hills, where they fared great…since survived a trip to the dunes too. Still a bit to do on them, the skid was just temporary, will be trimmed down to fit under the top bar and a 2nd bend to attach to lower skid. I learned I need a good brace to avoid the sagging lip look, and the rear bumper is getting a couple more tubes as well. Real anxious to finish it up and get it to lineX
Added Light canons up on the hood, and Amber spot D2s to the bumper... 3rd from left
With more lighting, needed more switches. I really liked Big Blue's clean upfitters in his bezel nook, sought to do the same to my right side hole. Really should have just added generic switches in the center console, as this project spiraled into some serious hackage. The dash support frame also came into play, so safe to say I would not recommend using the right side w/ the bulky factory switch panel.
The dash support was a tough angle to hit even with a dremel (actually nicked the corner as seen, but luckily that is covered by the other trim). In true hackmanship I made a cut and beat it back. Love swinging a 5lb hammer inches from an exposed nav screen.
Conveniently, since I was in there I was finally able to fix my front camera wiring, now accessible from the top dash opening. One upfitter now locks the front camera on.
Having changed my lighting around several times, I probably have 100yards of old unused wire in shared loom covers. Anticipating future changes, made an easy access panel for the new bank of switches, which should simplify change next time. It bolts in right above the glovebox, tucking in behind the airbag and bolts to the factory 7mm dash screws.
Being in wiring mode, I swapped in the ****** live hardwire kit for my max, and in the process added a ricer detector kill switch
Yukon Joe
FRF Addict
OP
OP
Well I can't take credit for the panel location, like most everything raptor this dates back the the Old Testament of wiz 
I thought it was going to be a longer reach, but really isn't bad, even with trex arms
I thought it was going to be a longer reach, but really isn't bad, even with trex arms
Mach1mike
Full Access Member
Stop hacking up the interior and let's dove tail the rear fenders.
OP
OP
Tony is going to add the 2 extra tubes out back, and then it's half dovetail time.
I will be soliciting your assistance so I don't pull a garth down the whole bed...
Waynes world - YouTube
I will be soliciting your assistance so I don't pull a garth down the whole bed...
Waynes world - YouTube
OP
OP
My stock exhaust seem to sag more after each run, low hanging tailpipes becoming an eye sore out back. It seemed every run i've been on aftermarket exhaust was getting ripped off, so tucking it up was the primary goal. Wanted to improve clearance, and obviously flow & sound were factors, but keeping it fairly quiet when not romping away. Have had a lot of experience with the welded ultrflo on other cars, so was a perfect winner in my eyes.
Size alone, I was gaining clearance. We re-used the stock flange for a good solid connection, and angled pipe upward eventually kicking it higher to tuck up and around cross members.
Wanted to eliminate the tailpipe but dump it as far back and high as possible. This worked best for me, and can still utilized the underbed spare for longer runs. Also re-used as much of the stock hanger equip as possible.
Really can’t see the exhaust unless you climb under but coated it in the VHT hi-temp ceramic header paint.
View from the side… no exhaust
Turned out great and best of all I was only in ~$200 for everything. Still fairly quiet at startup and idle, slightly louder than stock with more pronounced lope. Better sound across the board while cruising and not too obnoxious @ 80+ on highway... but most important, still barks nice at WOT.
Size alone, I was gaining clearance. We re-used the stock flange for a good solid connection, and angled pipe upward eventually kicking it higher to tuck up and around cross members.
Wanted to eliminate the tailpipe but dump it as far back and high as possible. This worked best for me, and can still utilized the underbed spare for longer runs. Also re-used as much of the stock hanger equip as possible.
Really can’t see the exhaust unless you climb under but coated it in the VHT hi-temp ceramic header paint.
View from the side… no exhaust
Turned out great and best of all I was only in ~$200 for everything. Still fairly quiet at startup and idle, slightly louder than stock with more pronounced lope. Better sound across the board while cruising and not too obnoxious @ 80+ on highway... but most important, still barks nice at WOT.
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