Aftermarket parts really don’t add much value, and it also makes no sense to pay more just because it has new tires. The seller can’t ask a premium just because his truck has all the parts it’s supposed to have on it
Should I stay away from a 2010 with 170k miles?
- Thread starter Metal578
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Johnny Cee
Member
I would agree, the 13-14s have a lot of the upgrades that the earlier versions don't have.
When I was doing my research they said 12'S were the worst years to get due to rear glass breaking and a few other issues.
When I was doing my research they said 12'S were the worst years to get due to rear glass breaking and a few other issues.
Badgertits
FRF Addict
Haha
B E N
FRF Addict
Can you list out these "lot of the upgrades"?
BlueOvalF22
Full Access Member
What something is worth to people is subjective.
I like the 2010.5 with the 6.2 because it has less "upgrades". No automatic seat a^s wiper comfort control module to replace..
It also depends on aftermarket parts when you get to the older trucks.
Why? Because shocks, springs, control arm bushings, headlights and bumpers will all be worn. You won't get what you put into most vehicles on aftermarket parts. It will however be worth more and more useful than an older truck with blown-out shocks, flat springs, busted sunroof tracks, melted fuse 27 etc.
Even frame chop bumpers vs stock replacement for rusted is better than rusted or bent stock bumpers.
I buff out the paint on my 2010 and with the Morimoto LED lights LED replacements all over, 2017 wheels... People who aren't truck people think it is a 2019 even raptor people think its the youngest 1st gen not the 1st year. With the upgrades, offroad I can all out wail on it, it takes it and my insurance at my age is $40 a month.
If someone is a real legit mechanic I really think you can buy a good 1 gen with 160k on it, build it a bit and beat a 2nd gen raptor everywhere but 0-60 all without car payments.
A friend test drove the cheapest used 1g around here in so-cal and then a lower-priced 2G. He only got to hit some speed bumps but he said neither rode like my 1g. I just showed him the pile of parts I replaced from one end to the other, both bumpers. all shocks, all springs, all lights, reskinned the seat... etc..
OP congrats on the reup with the Army. I did that a few times too... If you have skills and auto craft shop access, get a good 1st gen, year isn't important, clean carfax, service history, actual condition. One with just even properly installed Deavers is better than without. What are you really getting and what shape it is in is more important than MY'.
If you don't have the facility to work on it, I'd hold off until your last ETS.
I like the 2010.5 with the 6.2 because it has less "upgrades". No automatic seat a^s wiper comfort control module to replace..
It also depends on aftermarket parts when you get to the older trucks.
Why? Because shocks, springs, control arm bushings, headlights and bumpers will all be worn. You won't get what you put into most vehicles on aftermarket parts. It will however be worth more and more useful than an older truck with blown-out shocks, flat springs, busted sunroof tracks, melted fuse 27 etc.
Even frame chop bumpers vs stock replacement for rusted is better than rusted or bent stock bumpers.
I buff out the paint on my 2010 and with the Morimoto LED lights LED replacements all over, 2017 wheels... People who aren't truck people think it is a 2019 even raptor people think its the youngest 1st gen not the 1st year. With the upgrades, offroad I can all out wail on it, it takes it and my insurance at my age is $40 a month.
If someone is a real legit mechanic I really think you can buy a good 1 gen with 160k on it, build it a bit and beat a 2nd gen raptor everywhere but 0-60 all without car payments.
A friend test drove the cheapest used 1g around here in so-cal and then a lower-priced 2G. He only got to hit some speed bumps but he said neither rode like my 1g. I just showed him the pile of parts I replaced from one end to the other, both bumpers. all shocks, all springs, all lights, reskinned the seat... etc..
OP congrats on the reup with the Army. I did that a few times too... If you have skills and auto craft shop access, get a good 1st gen, year isn't important, clean carfax, service history, actual condition. One with just even properly installed Deavers is better than without. What are you really getting and what shape it is in is more important than MY'.
If you don't have the facility to work on it, I'd hold off until your last ETS.
Johnny Cee
Member
Here is one of the links that I could find that says 12's were the worst year.
How Long Do Ford Raptors Last? (Explained) | Motor & Wheels
The Ford Raptor is a pickup truck built for performance and ruggedness. While this Ford model has exceptional off-road credentials, it is also perfect for the
motorandwheels.com
B E N
FRF Addict
As I was being facetious here is a more comprehensive list: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/raptor-changes-year-by-year.15443/
Truth is it doesn't make a whole lot of difference. Unless you want a specific color that was limited all the trucks are plenty good. The 12 is not "the worst year", there really isn't a worst year, maybe a 2010 with a 5.4l, but they are still good.
11 did away with the 5.4l.
The 12 and later trucks had the LSD in the front and some frame reinforcement around the bump stops, but that frame reinforcement is taken care of by every bump stop kit made by a reputable company for these trucks, and if your pushing that hard you need upgraded bump stops.
13+ had HID as an option, also started the 801A package, but this is identical to the previous model years luxury package except the HID lights and navigation system.
14 had the SE package.
Sync 2 is nice because you can upgrade to sync 3, but if you have sync 1 its much easier to do a whole hog stereo upgrade. And sync 3 is already stale, sync 1 is arguably the best because it is easy to get rid of.
Pick your Raptor based on color, condition and availability, the rest can be solved by the aftermarket, as required.
There is nothing that makes a 13/14 in good condition with low miles worth considerably more than a 10/11/12 in similar condition, they are all past warranty date, all good trucks, all climbing in value.
Truth is it doesn't make a whole lot of difference. Unless you want a specific color that was limited all the trucks are plenty good. The 12 is not "the worst year", there really isn't a worst year, maybe a 2010 with a 5.4l, but they are still good.
11 did away with the 5.4l.
The 12 and later trucks had the LSD in the front and some frame reinforcement around the bump stops, but that frame reinforcement is taken care of by every bump stop kit made by a reputable company for these trucks, and if your pushing that hard you need upgraded bump stops.
13+ had HID as an option, also started the 801A package, but this is identical to the previous model years luxury package except the HID lights and navigation system.
14 had the SE package.
Sync 2 is nice because you can upgrade to sync 3, but if you have sync 1 its much easier to do a whole hog stereo upgrade. And sync 3 is already stale, sync 1 is arguably the best because it is easy to get rid of.
Pick your Raptor based on color, condition and availability, the rest can be solved by the aftermarket, as required.
There is nothing that makes a 13/14 in good condition with low miles worth considerably more than a 10/11/12 in similar condition, they are all past warranty date, all good trucks, all climbing in value.
Last edited:
UsernameTaken
Member
This. I paid 27k for a 2014 SE prior to this Covid craziness, sold it for $35k, and picked up a 2010 for $17k last December.
I'd sit out this market until there's equilibrium. I think we'll see the ceiling and floor of used car prices by this Fall. JMHO, and I don't have any data to back it up, so YMMV.
Hey all, I'm the owner of the 2010 Scab. Metal, feel free to call me anytime (847)293-1447. I would have listed on the forum but I haven't met the 50 post minimum. When I bought mine on 2015, it had 90k highway miles and never missed a service at Ford every 5k. I turn my own wrench but also have a mechanic that comes to me. I'm ashamed to admit here (flame suit on) that I've never off-roaded the truck. No pets, no smoking, and yes I have changed the transmission fluid 3 times with a pan drop/filter change at 130k, along with front (pain in the a**) and rear diff and transfer case. And remember the hand burns each time checking the tranny fluid level. I have receipts for the Motorcraft fluid. I'm **** about maintenance. Fairly confident the new owner will make it to 300k easy with regular servicing. I moved last Aug. to a house with a measly 2 car garage that the Raptor doesn't fit in, and have a single car driveway with 2 other vehicles (daughter just got her license, refuses to learn to drive the Raptor). I'm planning on listing on Bring a Trailer in about 2 weeks. Happy to answer any questions you have and open to offers. - Marty
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