GEN 1 Shock rebuild

[TomDirt]

I get my shock rebuild stuff from here... https://www.schmidtyracing.com/Ford...Bypass-Shock-Seal-Kit-p/o-sk-fox-ford-rap.htm. I order kits that have Schrader valves. Then just tap the shock body. pretty easy. My truck now has Schrader valves for the set on the truck and the set I have on the bench. I really don't know how you can fill them with the stock plugs. and not loose a little.

I ordered the kit awhile ago, changed a set of Gen 1 shocks, did my front replacement Gen 2 shocks..... then I somehow lost the frikin' kit. Now, I'm waiting for a new 7mm drill bit & the 0.303 tap & die set.

 

[Gumby]

I ordered the kit awhile ago, changed a set of Gen 1 shocks, did my front replacement Gen 2 shocks..... then I somehow lost the frikin' kit. Now, I'm waiting for a new 7mm drill bit & the 0.303 tap & die set.

7mm? drill bit? 0.303 tap? The kit I use is a 21/64 drill bit and a 1/8-27 NPT tap. Now I don't know if this works for gen 2 if that is what you are rebuilding. If the hole is smaller than 21/64 I don't see why you couldn't use the Schrader from Smitty they sell them individually.

 

[Gumby]

Have you looked at shock seals for the seal kits? Thats where i get my seals and i use Kartek for the valves, but i use the RPG valves so i don't have to drill and tap the shock. If you don't use the schrader valves you need a needle and then you fill it like a basketball. Problem with that is there's no way to know exactly how much pressure you put in. I have to crank my regulator up to almost 300psi to get 200 in the shock and i always check it with a gauge when i'm done. Also, as the nitro tank gets empty, do you need to increase the regulator pressure? IDK schrader valves are the ONLY way to do it in my opinion.

If anyone knows how they do it on the Gen 2 shocks, i'd love to see that operation. Gen 2 only have a screw and an O-Ring so there's no way to put a needle in there and fill. I'd love to see the contraption that fills the shock and plugs the hole without losing any pressure.

I have looked at shock seals. The kits are close in price to Smitty. (like 1 buck different) I looked in the beginning for the valves you didn't have to drill and tap. I never found them. but drill and tap is actually easy. I was intimidated at first. but a few min and they'er done. A little Teflon tape you are good to go.

 

[TomDirt]

7mm? drill bit? 0.303 tap? The kit I use is a 21/64 drill bit and a 1/8-27 NPT tap.

Math. I missed that class.
But as long as the new tap matches the new valve thread, (which is what I found for Schrader valves) then it should work. I still can't find the old kit anywhere, so right now I'm at the mercy of ups.

 

[Gumby]

The math is 21/64= 8.33 MM 1/8 tap is 1.25 mm but the thread count is 27 NPT.... MM will have the same count? I don't know. what it would be?..... Like (a guess) 1.5 or 1.25 count. If someone knows, I will take the education.

 

[TomDirt]

I used this source. That isn't a "normal" tap & die size, (so I didn't already have it) and no local tool supplier had it in their sets. And when I searched "Schrader valve install kit" that's the specs they advertised.

I'll know for sure by Saturday.

 

[Gumby]

I used this source. That isn't a "normal" tap & die size, (so I didn't already have it) and no local tool supplier had it in their sets. And when I searched "Schrader valve install kit" that's the specs they advertised.

I'll know for sure by Saturday.

That I believe is the thread for the Cap that would go on the valve if that makes sense.

 

[TomDirt]

According to that vendor, you're correct. I don't know what kind of nerd would put the tap & die size of the fill hose fitting on their page.

 

[Goose1942]

I don't know what the IFP bottoming sounds like but that could be the culprit. If you bottomed the IFP out when you installed the main shaft, that could be the cause. After i cycle the IFP a few times to bleed the air, i pull it up a few inches, then install the shaft and top cap. If you filled it with at least 28oz you shouldn't bottom the IFP. If you can replicate it in the driveway i would have someone bounce in your bed as you lay under the truck and see if you can hear where its coming from. Replacing the rear bushings is a nightmare unless you can make a tapered sleeve tool to press the bushing in. otherwise you'll be hating life, ask me how i know. Is it happening on the front as well or just rear? i had a clunk in the front that was caused by a loose shaft nut.

I got under there with a mechanic stethoscope and it is for sure more prominent from the mounting locations than anywhere else (shock tube, shackles, leafs etc) and on one I can hear a little bit of squeak sound like you're stretching a thick piece of latex or something. Would the IFP make noise on up and down travel though? I could be wrong, but to me it should only (potentially) make contact when the shaft is nearing full extension, not under compression as well. When I step in/on the truck slowly it makes a kind of groaning sound the whole way. Similarly, if I then lift up on the truck from the rear hitch for example it makes the sound during the trip up. It's not a single clunk on either end of the movement. The sound is also coming from both shocks, although, yes, I rebuilt both the same way. But I didn't touch the bushings.