SE style beauty rings on Ford beadlock wheels

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Jag

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Josh/Rappy Graphics also has overlays that work on the rings if you want to change things up a bit.
I coated my original 4 in a color very close to Ruby Red and used his black/reflective overlays on them. I also did 4 in gloss black with an older RR/reflective material he had in the SVT. He has since source better material that matches the RR much better.
 
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Josh/Rappy Graphics also has overlays that work on the rings if you want to change things up a bit.
I coated my original 4 in a color very close to Ruby Red and used his black/reflective overlays on them. I also did 4 in gloss black with an older RR/reflective material he had in the SVT. He has since source better material that matches the RR much better.


Post a pic of the rr rings? I did the black with mine.
0011770712452dd389c3eca05513a944.jpg
 

Rock-eater

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Just to be clear, then I will be done hijacking this thread.
The ring that comes with these is a beauty only ring, if you want a bead retaining ring you need to buy that ring from ford. Is this correct?
Does the ring that comes with these rims "beauty ring" need to be removed prior to taking a tire on or off the rim?
Thanks for the info I'm a raptor noob.
 

Rock-eater

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And just to be part of the thread conversation my rings are powder coated white but now seeing this thread I want the SVT letters black. The two tone looks good.
 

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Deleted member 12951

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Just to be clear, then I will be done hijacking this thread.
The ring that comes with these is a beauty only ring, if you want a bead retaining ring you need to buy that ring from ford. Is this correct?
Does the ring that comes with these rims "beauty ring" need to be removed prior to taking a tire on or off the rim?
Thanks for the info I'm a raptor noob.


The beauty ring does not need to come off when taking a tire off. But if you don't want a tire shop to scratch your rings, it might be best to remove them yourself. You can drive without the ring.

Some alignment shops will scratch the rings too when they grab the lip of the ring to mount to. Seek out places that use the Hunter system as those are safer on wheels.

You need a T45 to take them off. The bolts have a little locktite on them and torque to 47.9lbs.

Here is what they look like when off:
db6282ce300044e443f0905fcc55bfe0.jpg

And here is what a tire looks like when you have too much fun.
c1d01a36f6cfebb3e2232a40ee197af6.jpg
5bb4e3da27ee577c0fc3a8657d8ef451.jpg
 
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MrClarity

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you can powdercoat over the painted finish...

GMAN

Im the powder coater this thread is referring to.

The factory finish is an epoxy paint. I will not ever powder coat over an existing finish, and certainly not this finish. There are several reasons. Firstly, simply being, powder coat is designed to go on top of a metal substrate. A substrate that has been prepped (in this case stripped and sand blasted, the sand blasting provides a profiled surface to anchor the powder).


Secondly, these powders are cured at 400F, a temp that would structurally weaken the epoxy paint. Powder is TOUGH...but it it is sitting on a substrate that has been fried, its no better than paint and probably much weaker than the factory finish.

Third reason is the surface profile of the finished product. The epoxy paint serves as an insulator to the metal ring. Powder coat is applied with electrostatic energy. The powder being charged and the part being grounded. Shooting over an existing finish creates charge build up in the powder particles, which does not dissipate. Just as your hair stands on end when you get a static charge, the powder particles "stand". While this isn't a big deal to many powder coaters, I am constantly chasing orange peel free or minimal orange peel finishes. Powder is inherently "peeled", which is really its big and only disadvantage against paint on metal parts.


Fourth. In order to inlay the red lettering, I need deep and clean-edged recesses to lay powder in. The factory finish is very thick and sort of "fills in" the lettering. After a base coat, there would be little depth left to inlay the accent color.



Can you coat over existing finishes with powder? Sure. Will I? Never.

:Rock on:
 

smarsha11

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Im the powder coater this thread is referring to.

The factory finish is an epoxy paint. I will not ever powder coat over an existing finish, and certainly not this finish. There are several reasons. Firstly, simply being, powder coat is designed to go on top of a metal substrate. A substrate that has been prepped (in this case stripped and sand blasted, the sand blasting provides a profiled surface to anchor the powder).


Secondly, these powders are cured at 400F, a temp that would structurally weaken the epoxy paint. Powder is TOUGH...but it it is sitting on a substrate that has been fried, its no better than paint and probably much weaker than the factory finish.

Third reason is the surface profile of the finished product. The epoxy paint serves as an insulator to the metal ring. Powder coat is applied with electrostatic energy. The powder being charged and the part being grounded. Shooting over an existing finish creates charge build up in the powder particles, which does not dissipate. Just as your hair stands on end when you get a static charge, the powder particles "stand". While this isn't a big deal to many powder coaters, I am constantly chasing orange peel free or minimal orange peel finishes. Powder is inherently "peeled", which is really its big and only disadvantage against paint on metal parts.


Fourth. In order to inlay the red lettering, I need deep and clean-edged recesses to lay powder in. The factory finish is very thick and sort of "fills in" the lettering. After a base coat, there would be little depth left to inlay the accent color.



Can you coat over existing finishes with powder? Sure. Will I? Never.

:Rock on:

This is what happens when your powder coater applies over an existing pc job.

13110-bad-pcjob.jpg


Looking for a new powder coater now.
 
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