Scab vs Screw

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PlainJane

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With a SCAB, it's best to back into a parking spot, if you plan on slipping anything into the back seat area. That way the doors open away from you and access is better than most cars or trucks. Only a van with sliding side door has better access if it's also backed into the parking spot.

I remove my rear seat completely. If you just need a little more room, you can remove the large seat bottom behind the driver for a 3 seat version.
 

BroncoAZ

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Lol same paragraph not wanting to mod vehicles beyond their capabilities while contemplating bumping power by what, 100-200 ponies on an antique vehicle you intend to drive to & from off-roading on public roads? Lol- I get that it’s a bit different than modding a raptor slightly to accommodate a higher tow limit, but then again- no Bronco was ever made to handle that power, & there are directly related F150s w/ higher tow ratings- only difference? The Raptor has a more powerful/torquier engine, better gearing, & a stronger more reinforced frame (all things that should equate to higher tow rating) vs the regular F150 w/ a higher tow rating- main reason for the lower rating on The Raptor as I understood it had to do w/ a combo of the soft suspension & the adjusted GVWR.

I would think adding stouter leaf springs, bump stops, stiffer front springs & a weight distribution hitch to a raptor would allow you to tow the car hauler fine. I dunno if there’s any way to get some kind of DOT approval for a higher tow rating (I imagine there could be) - but while I understand your concern I also see TONS of trucks - raptors included- that are modified in terms of lifts, wider wheel offsets, much bigger wheel/tire combos than factory & then towing what may be under the max tow rating for their trucks in STOCK form - however once you modify a truck like that it’ll obviously have an impact on all of its performance/work ratings too right?

But from sounds of it you seem to be in the position where it makes sense to trim down the toy list a bit simply due to time constraints/practicality. If you’re OK w/ giving up the mpg from the VW as a DD & I also agree an LS engine swap (w/ good cooling) would make for a reliable bronco- however you may find yourself wishing it was the Raptor you were taking the 325 mile trek out for off-roading not the Bronco.

Could you flat - tow the Bronco behind the raptor? I know you can flat tow an f150 behind something else but not sure bout vice versa, but w/ non-enclosed AL trailer should be able to haul Bronco no prob.

You got me on the modding the Bronco beyond design specs. It’s been a toy since 2002 and is heavily modified with a full cage, 9” rear axle, long travel (16” travel front and rear) suspension, ARB lockers, etc. The 302 is probably 185hp, so I’d be adding at least 100hp to it with the LS. It’s a manual T-18 trans, so it isn’t any faster than I can shift it. I’m only considering LS for simplicity, Coyote won’t fit between my coilover towers. In defense of my statement about not exceeding specs, overloading a truck with too much trailer seems like a great way to get sued when it causes an accident. I’m not aware of anyone being ticketed or sued because their vehicle had more power than stock, but I get your point.

I wouldn’t be interested in modifying the Raptor to do something it wasn’t built for. My current car hauler is 3200#, my Bronco is 5500#. Flat towing could be an option, but the Bronco weighs about the same as a Raptor so it wouldn’t be ideal without a braking device in the Bronco. Even with a 1600# aluminum open trailer I’m at 7100#. The wife’s VW Touareg TDI is rated for 7732# or towing, but with a tongue weight restriction of about 630#. I might be better off with a Screw, but it’s certainly not what I want. The resale discussion is also a factor if the Scab is significantly lower. I’ll have to look for that thread. If I kept the Raptor for the 8 years/125K I could warranty it for the resale probably wouldn’t matter much.

Giving up the 41 mpg of the Passat TDI daily driver will be a rude awakening, but her Touareg still gets 28 mpg highway. Prior to the Passat I daily drove my Dodge 2500 for 8 years, probably 16-17 mpg. I’d be saving $100 monthly on insurance by getting down to one vehicle instead of two. I need to look at the spreadsheet again, but I think the overall fuel cost difference at ~16 mpg won’t be too terrible. The Raptor is pure want for me, I don’t need to drive a truck daily, but I’m cramped in my sedan. I could go with a standard F-150, but for not that much more than a Lariat I can have a badass truck. I’m still torn on which Raptor trim to get. I need 801a to get power pedals for my short wife, so for another $5-6K I should probably just get the 802a. For just my wants the 800a would be fine.
 

isis

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On the used SCAB market, I saw around 3k lower than SCREW, if you could even find apples to apples. So basically the same difference as new. But it is hard to find more than a couple to compare if you’re looking past a base model.
 

Richard Hinsley

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I've owned both, and the one extremely annoying feature that no one has mentioned with the SCAB is, that you have to open the front door before anyone can get out from the rear or putting objects in the back. I will never go back to a SCAB.
That doesnt seem.like it should be a deal breaker. You have to open the door to get out or in so just open the rear door and get stuff out. Shorter wheelbase and less weight, more responsive seems more beneficial.
 

pbtjrlmrt

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Off road handling difference is extremely minuscule. 1 degree break over angle difference is all. The SCREW is more reinforced via the additional pillar. The additional rear seat room is nice even for just two people where you can carry a cooler for easy access amongst other things for long trips. Not really much practical reason to get a SCAB over a SCREW in fact practicality suggests that the SCREW outweighs the SCAB by quite a margin. The only real thing that is subjective is the looks and that's totally in the eyes of the beholder.
 

Gen2Vmax

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Fuel capacity for sure could mean something to you at 23 vs 36 gallons. Towing is low for both 6-8K is still less than most regular F150s. Resale will be lower bc MSRP is $3K less, but certainly not "pissing away."

Having driven both, scab handing is better as the truck is a foot shorter (especially off road). Some like the scab look better very subjective thing.

The SCAB Raptor has a 26 gallon gas tank. I just checked Fords website specs, to be sure. Regular F150's come with a 23 gallon tank, with an optional upgrade to the 36 gallon tank. I know it's only 3 more gallons but still every bit counts.
 
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fl1by

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Gen 1 SCAB here. The looks are superior, wheel base and turning radius are better.... On some fire roads it is definitely more fun. If you get to a dead end and have to do a 7 point turn to get out it is doable, but a SCREW is a PITA!

But the suicide doors on my 2014 do not seal as well as the SCREW's 4 full doors.

I've got 132,000 miles on mine and would buy it again, without question.
 

SS308

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That doesnt seem.like it should be a deal breaker. You have to open the door to get out or in so just open the rear door and get stuff out. Shorter wheelbase and less weight, more responsive seems more beneficial.

Yea, you're right, having the following benefits really suck:

1. Larger gas tank
2. More towing capacity
3. Smoother ride with longer wheelbase
4. More space for passengers/cargo
5. More storage under seats

No deal breaker here... SAID NO ONE!
 
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