Rust proofing

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Macdaddy

Macdaddy

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You guys are funny, I’m not laying on my back in 10 degrees. Applicator would freeze anyway. That’s why I’m paying a shop to do it. But I appreciate all the advice. I really should of thought of it sooner (during summer) but I procrastinated and now have to pay “a guy” to do it. Figured I can’t work anyway for 6 weeks (knee surgery) so why not just get it done. I’ve noticed so many of you guys on this forum are great DIY guys, I wish I were able too like you, but I’m not so much, so I pay someone to do it for me. I wish I had a shop to work on my own stuff. Love this forum though, look forward to seeing it everyday.
 

JohnyPython

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No problem @Macdaddy sometimes let someone else do the work and you can relax with a bourbon.

Sometimes I ask myself why the F am I doing this should have farmed it out.
 

John M BUNMAN

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Isn't most of the frame and all of the body aluminum?
Aluminum Rusts badly, Depending on which CV (China Virus) it’s been exposed to since 2020. The Gen3 is more susceptible since “they” have found bat droppings on a few of the frames…
Follow me on InstaTwit for more rustproofing advice. ;)
 

RamseyF

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I believe the frame is still all steel, unless something changed recently that we are all unaware of. but body is mostly aluminum except the hood and front fenders, they are a composite of fiberglass and plastic. I am not sure about the bed. Aluminum does not rust, but it can and does corrode. just a technicality when people say aluminum doesn't rust. any corrosion is bad
 

EccentricRaptor

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The dealer I bought my Raptor off of offered a ValuGard Undercoat. A local business did it for their customers. It's a black, waxy substance that coats the underbody to protect it from stuff like salt and rocks flinging up. I live in an area that uses salt/brine like crazy and I hated it when my previous vehicle started to rust, so I went for it. First time having a Raptor. First time having an undercoat on a vehicle.

Only have had the vehicle for about 6 months though so I can't tell you whether it works or not for rust. All I can say is that the cost was reasonable enough that I was willing to take the chance. If it doesn't work, oh well. If it does, I'll do my first cartwheel (not really - I'm a danger prone clutz and that'd just be all bad).
 

CoronaRaptor

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You guys are funny, I’m not laying on my back in 10 degrees. Applicator would freeze anyway. That’s why I’m paying a shop to do it. But I appreciate all the advice. I really should of thought of it sooner (during summer) but I procrastinated and now have to pay “a guy” to do it. Figured I can’t work anyway for 6 weeks (knee surgery) so why not just get it done. I’ve noticed so many of you guys on this forum are great DIY guys, I wish I were able too like you, but I’m not so much, so I pay someone to do it for me. I wish I had a shop to work on my own stuff. Love this forum though, look forward to seeing it everyday.
Just make sure it's not a permanent hard application, get a written guarantee that it wont crack and rust the frame, etc. Make sure also that they don't spray anything that is permanent on you shocks, control arms, hoses, wiring ad brake lines. I've seen it all, bad and good on this forum and in real life. The stuff we are all using on the forum, can be pressure washed off if need be and we usually apply every year, fyi. I know what knee problems are like, hope it gets better and post some before and after pics for us. Good luck.
 

Dr Racecraft

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Amsoil HDMP refuses to be pressure washed off or soaped off for that matter. Carb cleaner takes it off easily though.

I sprayed everything including control arms and shocks bc I don’t want any of that rusting. The only thing I didn’t do was brakes and exhaust or anything in the engine bay
 
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