Roush Raptor Spun a Rod

[John813]

Yea, more profit for him to rebuild it. Not saying he's trying to screw you or anything.

I have a buddy with over 110k miles on a 14 Roush Raptor.
It's custom tuned, headers, etc making well over 700 at the crank. It's pushed hard offroad.
Still running strong.


I had a roush scab that gave me no issues when I had it. Even in the summer heat of florida spinning tires in soft sand.

 

[Jross993]

Yeah that’s what I was thinking, more profit for him. Local Ford dealer says $8500 for long block installed. That doesn’t include any extra labor for supercharger kit, headers or oil pump work. Headers are what, $2k?

 

[zombiekiller]

just gonna say this.

I'm not sure that I buy the reasoning for the spun bearing. Usually, that is going to come from an oiling issue or washing the cylinder down. hard to directly correlate that to the tune.

That being said, the oem short blocks are easy to get. a long block is a different story ( to my knowledge they are currently back-ordered nationally).

I wouldn't choose livernois.

If the guy has a good motor program, let him do the build. Have the truck tuned by a professional. skip the canned tunes.

I have some friends that have gotten well over 100K out of their motor. I have other friends that blow one up every year.

The folks that have properly built and tuned motors? you never really hear them say much about their motor because it just does its business.

 

[Jross993]

Ford dealer said 2-3 weeks to do the job but I’m not sure if I buy that, didn’t sound like they’ve done many of these swaps and they weren’t really familiar with the Roush setup. I called livernois directly and the guy I spoke to said a month and a half if I ship my motor to them.

My local guy sounds pretty confident in his work, has a good plan in place and has an in house dyno for custom tuning. Right now that is the direction I’m leaning.

 

[MTF]

No wheel hop or anything, I’ve been really conscious of that cuz I knew that was an issue. I’m planning on deaver springs plus shocks rebuilt with the flutter stack mod or whatever it is to eliminate wheel hop.

I’m definitely gonna use the Kooks high flow cats.

Pretty unanimous so far from you guys to just do the ford reman, it’s just not necessary at 700hp to have a built motor? This builder is definitely leaning towards rebuilding my block for longevity. He has an in-house dyno, tunes high hp mustangs and race cars and has built a bunch of raptors.

Traction bars my friend is the only route to fully eliminate wheel hop and do WOT launches!!!
I went through all that, but doing the rear spring upgrade is a must do, just to have it ride better.

You need the "Green" Cats from Kooks not the high flow.
But you can do what ever you want, I'm just giving you recommendations.
There are quite a few that scraped the BS high full cats and went back to stock OEM.
Quality wise the OEM stock cats are the best, second is Kooks Green Cats.
You can easily get away with high flow and turn off rear O2s a NA Raptor but SC'ed not so much.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Ford dealer said 2-3 weeks to do the job but I’m not sure if I buy that, didn’t sound like they’ve done many of these swaps and they weren’t really familiar with the Roush setup. I called livernois directly and the guy I spoke to said a month and a half if I ship my motor to them.

My local guy sounds pretty confident in his work, has a good plan in place and has an in house dyno for custom tuning. Right now that is the direction I’m leaning.

Whichever way you go, as long as you are happy with the end result is what matters. Keep us posted, we like pics of motor tear downs and build ups too, just sayin'.

 

[Jross993]

Traction bars my friend is the only route to fully eliminate wheel hop and do WOT launches!!!
I went through all that, but doing the rear spring upgrade is a must do, just to have it ride better.

You need the "Green" Cats from Kooks not the high flow.
But you can do what ever you want, I'm just giving you recommendations.
There are quite a few that scraped the BS high full cats and went back to stock OEM.
Quality wise the OEM stock cats are the best, second is Kooks Green Cats.
You can easily get away with high flow and turn off rear O2s a NA Raptor but SC'ed not so much.

Sorry thats what I meant, the green cats, not the standard ones.

Are there traction bars for these trucks that don't require drilling into the frame? That's something I want to avoid.

 

[Jross993]

Whichever way you go, as long as you are happy with the end result is what matters. Keep us posted, we like pics of motor tear downs and build ups too, just sayin'.

Thanks I appreciate all your guys input. It's a hard decision to make, its making my head spin! A buddy of mine is telling me to put a Jasper motor in....

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Well, the good thing is, you're not trying to rebuild it in your kitchen, sounds like you're in good hands and have the funds to build a bad ass supercharged Raptor.

 

[MTF]

Sorry thats what I meant, the green cats, not the standard ones.

Are there traction bars for these trucks that don't require drilling into the frame? That's something I want to avoid.

I have the Rogue Racing traction bars, they are bolt on, no drilling.
ROGUE RACING - FORD F150\RAPTOR 2009+ TRACTION BAR SYSTEM — Rogue Racing

Supposedly RPG makes the same bar design, just not sure if they make them for the Gen 1

The SVC traction bars are much cheaper than the two above but require welding.
And the design is completely different.