Rigid 50" Roof Mount - need help!

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Trevor*

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Lol I would be scared to drill into my roof.

I was too, but I don't think the holes would be too hard to cover if the light were removed. The hole could be filled with silicon and a strip of automotive vinyl wrap placed over the hole to cover. Certain colors would be easy to match with vinyl. Probably would not be noticed from the ground.



When I installed mine, I per-drilled through the first 2 layers and used large self-tapping screws so I did not have to drill all the way through and use a nut. They have stayed tight with no issues.
 
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iSurvive

iSurvive

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Thanks for the tips!

So I purchased the Rigid 50" and Rigid brackets today. Should be here by end of week. I have several extra Rigid wiring harnesses, so I can start figuring out the wiring.

justvettn - Where can I hook up the wiring behind the glovebox? All of my upfitter switches are taken, so I'm installing another set of switches.

I wasn't crazy about the N-fab brackets just because I didn't want N-fab laser cut on the brackets. I'm hoping the Rigid brackets are really nice - because they cost twice as much. I can't even find a picture of them, but I trust they look fine. I was told by Alternative Offroad that the Rigid brackets have a lower profile.

ADD sells the clamp mount style roof mount, but even it requires drilling holes. they hide under the weather strip, so can be hidden easily if removed.

Trevor - What size holes did you pre-drill, and what size self-tapping screws?
 

justvettn

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iServive the connection behind the dash that I was refering to is the wires that lead to your upfitter switches, you can go directly to those wires behind the glove box instead of going through the firewall.
You indicated that all your upfitters are taken so a couple things you could do, hook the light up to an upfitter that has a high amp fuse this way one switch will control two lights. you will need 5 Amps for every 10 inches of light bar so your 50" will need 25Amps and your 20" will need 10 amps so you would be fine on a switch that has a 40 Amp fuse.
You could also have the 50" by itself on one switch and double up two other lights to come on together. The other thing you could do is use the wiring and switch that come with the light and run your power directly off the battery.
 
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iSurvive

iSurvive

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Thanks for all the info. I have already doubled up two switches because I ran out of switches a while ago. I had a problem with my 40" and 20" running together; the 40" would light up 3 of the 4 panels of LEDs, but not the 4th. I had to run the 40" by itself.

Right now I have a Baja 20" and two VisionX hood mounts together, and all four of my Rigid fogs running together. My other Rigid 20" sits by itself, as does my Rigid 40".

I may have to run the 50" to the battery. Any thoughts on the easiest way to get there?
 

justvettn

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Run it through a hole in the roof down the windshield frame and out the firewall along the inner fender strait to the battery.
 
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iSurvive

iSurvive

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How much stuff do I have to remove to accomplish that? Step by step would be really nice! I'm handy, but interior work makes me nervous. Roof liners and dashboards don't like me.
 

justvettn

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We just removed the plastic side trims and weather striping and lowerd the headliner but did not remove it.The one we did together was a Supercab Netix can chime in and let us know how different the Supercrew was that he did as well.
 
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iSurvive

iSurvive

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My backup plan is to have a local vendor install the roof mounts and wiring. If I chicken out I'll have them do the work. I've done every mod to my truck myself, and I really like knowing exactly how and where things were modified/installed. When out in the middle of nowhere, it's best you know where to look for issues if something goes wrong!
 

Netix

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Sorry ok ill read up latest posts and chime back, been super busy havent had much time to go on the forums, finals, ******* up my sunroof ect ect gimme a few min
 
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