Right Front suspension noise

[stewwalker]

I may be a little late to the discussion but, I HAVE THE ANSWER.

My truck had the clunking noise in the right front area. Double checked EVERYTHING non suspension related. Noise was still present. Took the tires off made sure everything was tight, still the noise. Checked every ball joint on the truck, nothing.

Decided to take my shocks off and send them to We Rebuild Shocks in California for a rebuild and revalve. I called the shop when I knew the shocks made it and asked the guy if the lower shock bushings were worn out (they seemed fine to me when I took the shocks off). Guy says hold on, walks over to the shocks, gives them a wiggle and says yep, both left and right shocks have bad bushings. They replaced them. Just went for a drive and THE CLUNK IS GONE.

If you are having a clunk, or rattle while driving at low speeds over small bumps, replace the lower shock bushings. Fox is the only place you can find them, and they are not cheap, but it is the correct way to fix your shocks.

If you have bad bushings you will be able to wiggle them with your hands.
If you have good bushings they will be tight. Like a tiger.

 

[LXCoupe]

Is this the "clunk" y'all are describing? It only happens during sharp fast bumps not long swooping bumps.

Sorry for the sideways video, couldn't get my GoPro upright with the fixture I currently have.

You can hear the clunk best at 0:02 and 0:15

 

[Raven13]

When I changed spring on front shocks to Geisers I had a clunk noise at low speed until I was able to borrow a big ass torque wrench a week later to get proper torque. When Fords says bottom shock bolt needs to be torqued to 406lbs they mean it!! No noise since I got proper torque on it.

 

[prowakeskater]

Bumping this old thread out of desperation

I took my 2013 screw to forged off-road for a shock rebuild and attempt to solve my right front clunk

Got their flutter stack and spherical bushings as well as their shanked bolts

Didn’t work. Clunk is still very prominent. At all speeds.

They recommended I replace the hub but the wheel spins without any grinding and the 12/6 test is absolutely solid. I’m not sold on it.

I just replaced the lower ball joint in my driveway. Replaced the UCA. no difference.

Steering is very tight and no feedback can be felt through it at all. Only the gas pedal.

What’s next? Complete lower control arm? Different shocks? It’s driving me crazy and it’s all I can think about

 

[Eyespyautomotive]

See my clunk thread, I solved mine with UCA's , spring hats and torquing the lower bolt with the shock pried up. Still my opinion that the shock eye hits the LCA because it's too close.
My truck feels great today.

 

[prowakeskater]

See my clunk thread, I solved mine with UCA's , spring hats and torquing the lower bolt with the shock pried up. Still my opinion that the shock eye hits the LCA because it's too close.
My truck feels great today.

I read your thread as well as every other one in existence, lol. did everything you did except pry up the shock and use a big enough torque wrench.. ill rule that out next.

Thought it was the shock itself but Forged Offroad swapped a different one in with the same result. They hit the bottom bolt with a 700ftlb impact but perhaps mine needs extra love.

Also tried a new wheel bearing. No luck. Only thing left after that is the LCA bushings. I can see evidence of them sliding around along the bolt, with the rubber side making contact

 

[98infinity]

can you change the LCA bushings or do you need all new arms?