Retorque lca shock bolt

[mattyz99]

So I developed that “clunk” sound only happens at low speeds while turning to park or coming out of driveway. It’s coming from the front of the truck, from searching on the forum it sounds like I need to check the torque on my lca shock bolt. I do have Eibach springs but I have had them on for over a year and half close to 10k miles with zero issues. I ordered the torque wrench from summit that goes up to 600 ftlbs, I’m just trying to figure out what is the best way to retorque this nut, and while I’m at it check the rest of the nuts in the front suspension.

It’s going to be done in my driveway, I don’t have a lift or access to one, so anyone that’s done this at home, what did you do, jack up one side secure with jack stands remove tire torque down carefully? Then repeat on other side?

 

[EricM]

Always do final torque on LCAs with the truck on the ground.

 

[mattyz99]

Good to know, so would you use an extension on the torque wrench to reach that bottom shock bolt with the truck on the ground ? That one gets torqued to 406 ftlbs I believe

 

[EricM]

I don't like using long extensions on torque wrenches, especially at high torque values.

I'd probably pull the front skid plate and crawl under there, but I doubt I could get 400+ ft-lb, even on a long tq wrench. Just depends on how much you weigh and how long that torque wrench is. A torque multiplier would make it easy. You could use a standard torque wrench if you had a multiplier. I plan to buy one when I rebuild the front end on mine.

 

[GCATX]

Did you check the sway bar bushings?

 

[mattyz99]

Did you check the sway bar bushings?

they feel don’t feel loose, not making noise by hand but I’ll recheck them with the torque specs sheet too

 

[EricM]

Good to know, so would you use an extension on the torque wrench to reach that bottom shock bolt with the truck on the ground ? That one gets torqued to 406 ftlbs I believe

Was thinking about this when I was in the garage and got to looking- you could also pull the wheel, then use a jack under the spindle/LCA to get it loaded to ride height. That will give you access to the nut from the side of the truck through the wheelwell. You can get all your weight on the wrench that way. Well, on one side. Going to have to pull up on the other side. Just eyeballing it, it looks like it will be a tight squeeze with the back edge of the bumper, but it looks like it'd clear with a shallow socket on there. Even if the bumper is in the way, you still you have the arc below the bumper to the ground to work with.

 

[downforce137]

Was thinking about this when I was in the garage and got to looking- you could also pull the wheel, then use a jack under the spindle/LCA to get it loaded to ride height. That will give you access to the nut from the side of the truck through the wheelwell. You can get all your weight on the wrench that way. Well, on one side. Going to have to pull up on the other side. Just eyeballing it, it looks like it will be a tight squeeze with the back edge of the bumper, but it looks like it'd clear with a shallow socket on there. Even if the bumper is in the way, you still you have the arc below the bumper to the ground to work with.

you actually need to torque the nut on the backside and hold the bolt on the front stationary..

Ive always jacked the suspension up slightly from underneath the LCA with the nut loose to put some weight on the bolt, and then torque the nut with the wheel off. never had any clunking issues..

 

[mAtTyG04]

I've been chasing this all last week. I have Eibach coils installed since July (tossed the stock coils so forget about going to dealer). I've tightened everything I can get my hands on. I removed the sway-bar. I had the dealer torque most all front end components last week when they did my oil change. It's cold here (-15 C) and seems to be more noticeable and it's driving me crazy..so crazy I tried out a Gladiator last w/e at the dealer.

I just ordered the forged lower shock bolts. When I install them I'll be torquing with the suspension fully drooped like recommended on here on another thread (due to LCA/Lower shock clearance). I don't see any Moog UCA options for a 2019 Raptor. All I can see for a replacement UCA's is high-end stuff (Icon, Camburg, etc.) which I will not purchase for a shot in the dark so it seems the only option is replacing them with OEM UCA's?

If this doesn't get resolved (I'm not spending 5k on shot in the dark fixes) this truck will be gone by spring. As much as I love the truck I'm OCD when it comes to noises and it's driving me crazy.

My gut is telling me it's the shock itself but I can't afford to loose my truck for a rebuild or spend $4k replacing them.

It's my dd and only has 25,000 kms (15,000 miles)

 

[mattyz99]

I injured my arm at work so haven’t been able to attempted the lca bolts yet, but looking on other posts looks like it could also be the sway bar endlinks so I ordered a set of those and am waiting on delivery. I hope these solve the clunk, I would say even more of a pop sound now coming from the front. It’s only at low speeds most noticeable when turning in and out of a parking spot or coming in or out of driveway.