Really want 37" tires, but....

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IronRaptor

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Really want 37" tires, but.. NO BUT, I GOT THEM!!!

I only want to use the stock rims and do a mid perch adjustment. I have searched for a couple of days now and everyone changes the rims out. I have read all the way through E63's build, however he has modified the suspension a lot. I would like to hear/see a real world poster using this set up.

One other thing I tow a 9000LB trailer a lot. I already have an air bag set up in the back to deal with the added tongue weight. My 2010 SCAB W/6.2 tows this like a dream so hopefully the new tires do not mess that up. The only off road it sees is my dirt driveway (the wife has a bum neck so we can't use it as intended). Any input would be greatly appreciated...
 
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Rookie

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A few members have said before that it is possible for 37s with mid perch and no other suspension adjustments but you can basically write it off as a street queen or else you will cause some major damage. You seem to be fine with that so do what you wanna do.
 

bstoner59

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37's with mod perch will be ok if you don't offroad. The reason everyone uses different rims is the weight. By going to 37's on lighter rims you are not increasing the rotational mass by as much as you will with 37's on stock rims.
 

G & P Racing

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Hey IronRaptor, I was real close to you sunday, one of my best buds lives in Scappoose, cruised past you on the other side of the river headed north to Anacortes. I agree, you should do mods however you want. A couple of things to consider, not all 37" tires are the same size, some brands are larger than others and would be a factor. While you can just go to mid perch ( you will like it ) IMO you are also going to have to cut and/or hammer down the pinch seam on the firewall. As far as it feeling exactly the same towing 9K, IMO you would end up changing gears to keep that feel, 4.56 or 4.88. Try it with the stock ones first and see what you think. The good news is you a 2010 so diff gears are not an issue, although this is suppose to be solved now for 2011-up, but I have not installed any yet. Good luck with your mods and post a pic when you get your new setup.
 

pat'sRAPTOR

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One thing with the stock runs and 37's is the width as G&P said each tire is different, with the offset on the stick rims you might run into issues with the tire rubbing on the UCA at full turn. Just a heads up if you decide to get the toyos. Mine rubbed a little but I have methods with a 0 offset and the RPG UCA's
 
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IronRaptor

IronRaptor

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G&P Racing, I was visiting that entire area as it is really pretty up there. I turned over 10K towing with that trailer and set up. thanks a lot for the information. I am familiar with the gearing as I was heavy into Jeeps before this. I know I have to bend the pinch weld and I have zero issues with doing that. I am looking at getting the Nitto Trail Grappler M/T as they have the right look for me. Is the top perch really that harsh of a ride? I know I have the 2010 and there son't seem to be any issues. I do a lot of full lock turning trying to maneuver that 31' trailer around in the parks so rubbing has to be eliminated. Thanks for everyone that has posted, very informative....
 

pat'sRAPTOR

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Depending on the actual width of the nittos at the tread depends on how much it'll rub I know the toyos are really wide with the side tread sticking out and that's what was rubbing on mine. It didn't rub a lot just enough over the year and a half I had them to rub the paint off the UCA's but like I said I have the RPG Racine UCA's with the 1.5inch bearing so it sticks out a little more than stock you might not have any rubbing with the stock UCA's but I'd double check the width on the tire first and make sure it's the actual width where te tread is not what it's advertised at. The toyos says its a 13.5 inch width but it was really like 14.2 I believe. I took a pic of mine where it rubbed a tiny bit it didn't hurt the UCA's or the tire one but just rubbed off some paint.

As for top perch yea it's a little rougher cause the spring is pre loaded more but I have had zero issues being on top perch over the last 3 years its possible on the 2010's and 2011's since we don't have the front torsion diff. But I will say that having an aftermarket bumper that's heavier than stock helps keep the front end down a tiny bit so you're not putting so much stress on the cv axles and components. And since you said you dot off road much it shouldn't be an issue really. Hope this info helps!
 

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G & P Racing

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Yes, its nice up here in the summer. Sounds like you have your mod well planned out. As far as the top perch goes...I ran thousands of miles on it, lots offroad. I liked mid perch better but for me the issues with top perch were twofold, the stance was a little nose high with my +2 deavers and the rebound dampening was too light running offroad. Ended up going with aftermarket shocks and it was a huge improvement with the ht about halfway between mid and top perch on the setup I run. If you are looking to never ever rub? I would think you are going to have to cut the firewall back. Saw this done on an Outlaw rig, RSV2, and it came out really slick. Its on my bucket list. Of course it all depends on what kind of bouncing around you do, the lower A-arms are on large rubber bushings and flex back and forth a fare distance. Most likely you are going to be fine and happy with what you have planned, most of my issues have come from hard offroad use.
 
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IronRaptor

IronRaptor

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Awesome G&P! Thanks so much for the real world advice. The tires are 12.50 so don't think there will be a problem there. Did not want to go top perch and don't think I will. I can always do it later as I am an aircraft/auto mechanic and worked with spring compressors before. I will look into the firewall also. Cutting and grinding don't bother me... One more thing, I read E63's post all the way through and it looks like no 37" spare? Is that correct?
 

pat'sRAPTOR

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Yea the 37" won't fit under the truck way too big! And is that 12.5 inches at the rim or at the outer diameter?

---------- Post added at 12:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:36 PM ----------

Found the actual dimensions on nittos website here they are
This shows the actual width of the tire at its widest point which is the outer diameter where the tread meets the road.

37x12.50R17LT D 124Q
Stock Number: 205-880
Tread Depth: 21.0
Rim Widths: 8.5-(10.0)-11.0
Overall Width: 13.43
Overall Diameter: 36.85
Max Load Pressure: 3525
Revs Per Mile:
 
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