xxMaxPowerxx
Member
Thanks for the write up. it was a big help. I installed a new steering wheel for a used 2012 SCREW I bought a couple weeks ago. Perfect interior (and almost perfect exterior) condition except the red leather notch and general wheel wear. Given the amount of $$ this vehicle cost me I didn't think it makes sense to look at a crappy wheel. I now think any used car I ever buy will get a new wheel it's made such a huge difference!
With your instructions it only took me 15 min (not including battery disconnect wait time) to swap.
For others looking for instructions: for a straight wheel swap there's no need to take off the cowling around the steering column (top or bottom) and you don't need the T20 to remove the metal plate sitting behind the airbag, you can leave that on. I'm not actually sure why it was removed in the example, but it may give you access to something I didn't need. Last tip, Ford uses thread-locker glue on the main T50 bolt. So it is a good idea to replace the bolt or clean the original off and apply some fresh thread-lock.
With your instructions it only took me 15 min (not including battery disconnect wait time) to swap.
For others looking for instructions: for a straight wheel swap there's no need to take off the cowling around the steering column (top or bottom) and you don't need the T20 to remove the metal plate sitting behind the airbag, you can leave that on. I'm not actually sure why it was removed in the example, but it may give you access to something I didn't need. Last tip, Ford uses thread-locker glue on the main T50 bolt. So it is a good idea to replace the bolt or clean the original off and apply some fresh thread-lock.
