Perch mod - with the shocks on the truck

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KaiserM715

KaiserM715

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I'm glad you guys are getting it done, but damn, it's only an hour job to do both sides taking the shocks completely off the truck??
I don't see how the average Joe who is doing this for the first time in their driveway would be able to do it any faster by taking the shock off of the truck. Actually, I think it would take more time. Air tools would be mandatory. Sockets and wrenches that are not in most standard sets would be required. Plus, that lower shock fastener has to be torqued to 400 ft-lbs. Just hammering away at it with an impact to tighten it up is not something I want to do. Doing it the right way would require a 30mm deep well 3/4" drive socket and either a torque multiplier or a 3/4" drive torque wrench. How many guys who are not professional mechanics have those laying around? I don't. Actually, I am guessing that 3/4" drive tools are somewhat a rarity in an auto mechanics tool box to begin with (I could be wrong).

---------- Post added at 07:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:35 AM ----------

Kaiser, the 2 prong type compressors (same 2 prong hooks on each end of the threaded bar) are the regular type spring compressors. You can see on hiding on the left side of this photo.

That is definitely lower profile than the one I used. I could see how that would make it easier to position.
 

Prybar

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I don't see how the average Joe who is doing this for the first time in their driveway would be able to do it any faster by taking the shock off of the truck. Actually, I think it would take more time. Air tools would be mandatory. Sockets and wrenches that are not in most standard sets would be required. Plus, that lower shock fastener has to be torqued to 400 ft-lbs. Just hammering away at it with an impact to tighten it up is not something I want to do. Doing it the right way would require a 30mm deep well 3/4" drive socket and either a torque multiplier or a 3/4" drive torque wrench. How many guys who are not professional mechanics have those laying around? I don't. Actually, I am guessing that 3/4" drive tools are somewhat a rarity in an auto mechanics tool box to begin with (I could be wrong).

---------- Post added at 07:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:35 AM ----------



That is definitely lower profile than the one I used. I could see how that would make it easier to position.

I guess you could be right. I am a former pro mech. It seemed like a simple job when we did Yodas rig. Now that I have done 1 I'm sure I can do another quite a bit faster. It just seems sketchy with all those compressors jammed in there together. I like having everything out in the open where I can get to it easy. To each their own. Like I said, I'm glad you guys are getting it done no matter how you are doing it.:waytogo:
 

SwampKing

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Me and a buddy will be trying this method sometimes this week! ......ESPECIALLY after driving up to another owner in traffic with his adjusted to the middle! Sucker looked nice, he had a heavy foot too and his Molten Orange to my Race Red truck rocked back and fourth like a beast! (I hope your hearing this as it be nice to find a local buddy)





12' Race Red Raptor SCAB (Loaded to the max!)
SCABS are faster!!
08' SeaDoo RXP-X Clockin' 80+ GPS
 

J0shM1lls

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Forgive my ignorance but... How does this affect the shocks offroad performance? I know it reduces the downward travel of the shock to 3", so does that in turn mean that if you hit a jump and the front squats more than those 3" your suspension bottoms out and you potentially damage your suspension? Sorry for the questions, I just don't want to increase the risk of something breaking down there.

Thanks
Josh
 
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KaiserM715

KaiserM715

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Forgive my ignorance but... How does this affect the shocks offroad performance? I know it reduces the downward travel of the shock to 3", so does that in turn mean that if you hit a jump and the front squats more than those 3" your suspension bottoms out and you potentially damage your suspension?
This does not change the total suspension travel of the truck, only where it normally sits in that travel. Before, the truck had about 4.25" of down travel (droop) and 6.75" of up travel, for a total of 11". After this, the truck has about 3" of droop travel and 8" of up travel, keeping the 11" of total travel. If all tires are in the air, you still have 11" of total travel in the front to absorb the hit.
 
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