Part numbers for pinion bearings, races, crush sleeve, oil seal... or as a kit

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ratty

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Well, my 2010 Raptor's pinion bearings are nothing more than a memory after putting my 70,000 miles on it (now on 230,000 miles)... the whine that I tHEorIZeD was possibly that a year ago, may have finally presented itself as such. My pinion has so much play in it it's jumping up and down shaking the truck like a cement shaker, its days are severely limited (it moves up and down about a 1/4 inch though luckily has no front to back movement at all at least). No money to have anyone do it for me so I'm gonna hope for a nice dry couple of days in a row (one of the good things about global warming, you can work on your vehicles outside more often), though doing this lying on my old back is not gonna be fun (how many times have I said I wish I had a lift?).

So I'm on RockAuto trying to figure out the correct part no's, as the 9.75 is used in various trucks not just the Raptor's... hoping I get this right the first time. I'm just going to replace both pinion bearings and races, crush sleeve, and oil seal, and going to ignore the ring gear as well as the pinion, which I wouldn't be surprised is probably a bit chewed up from the play, but short on funds at the moment, and I just want to get her rolling again for the winter at least, then revisit her when it's warm out again and do a full pinion and ring gear replacement.

Man I wish this was a 9" like on my race car, I'd just yank that center out, bring it in my basement shop and do it the easy way... but noooo, thanks Ford, ya just gotta make this old guy suffer.

So has anyone gone through this replacement before, and still have the Ford factory part no's handy (or any part numbers), so I can cross reference them to whatever Rock Auto has? Thanks!
 

Gumby

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ratty

ratty

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Thanks guys, I'll keep them in mind but I'm more interested in just part no.'s atm, so that I can verify whatever I find online is the correct ones so I can compare prices and make a decision that way... I don't want to waste their time if I end up not buying from them.

More interested if any of you have recently done this yourselves and still have the part no.'s you used still handy...
 
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Cody Templeton

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Thanks guys, I'll keep them in mind but I'm more interested in just part no.'s atm, so that I can verify whatever I find online is the correct ones so I can compare prices and make a decision that way... I don't want to waste their time if I end up not buying from them.

More interested if any of you have recently done this yourselves and still have the part no.'s you used still handy...

I would just call Quick Performance and get the kit from them instead of trying to save 20 bucks shopping around for hours. I just rebuilt and upgraded my Super 8.8" in my 22 F-150. They were priced well with quality parts and very helpful customer service.
 

Gumby

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Thanks guys, I'll keep them in mind but I'm more interested in just part no.'s atm, so that I can verify whatever I find online is the correct ones so I can compare prices and make a decision that way... I don't want to waste their time if I end up not buying from them.

More interested if any of you have recently done this yourselves and still have the part no.'s you used still handy...
I just did mine recently. I don't have the part #. like @Cody Templeton says... Just call one guy.. get what you need and be Done. Sounds like he had good luck with his people.and Ron's is excellent.
 

downforce137

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Cody Templeton

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I just did mine recently. I don't have the part #. like @Cody Templeton says... Just call one guy.. get what you need and be Done. Sounds like he had good luck with his people.and Ron's is excellent.

Absolutely. I'm sure there's other places like you mentioned that can get you the right hookup too. Quick Performance just happens to be like 30 minutes from me, and they are highly talked about from a lot of the YouTube guys for rear end stuff, plus their banners up at a lot of 1/4 mile drag tracks and such. Was an easy decision for me to just get ahold of them.
 
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ratty

ratty

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Ok guys, what's the deal with this E-Locker... trying to pull my diff, and at first I was like, what locker, I don't see a damn thing, this just looks like an open diff. But alas, ah, the mystery wires.... I guess this tiny locker must be hidden in it on the left side. So I'm trying to figure out how to disconnect those wires so I can pull the damn thing out, but I don't see any obvious connectors. The only connector is the external one on the housing, which I disconnected, and figured maybe if I remove the connector itself, that it's one of those things where you turn it sideways and you can fit it through the opening in the housing, and then one can remove the diff with it all intact.

Not sure if that's the way to do it, I had to take a beer break (working out in the snow, fun times) because even though I got the one bolt out that holds that connector on the housing, the connector wouldn't budge... and I know better not to get to crazy on plastic when it's below freezing outside.

Does anyone know how to disconnect these E-locker wires from the connector?? I just don't see anything obvious in the diff itself. And I don't see any connectors on the back side of the external connector.

Like I've always said, 'There's always somethin'!'.... I should've had this thing apart 40 mins ago, only have an hour or so left before it starts getting dark and temps drop even more, the next three days will be single digits and below negative at night, and I sure as hell ain't gonna work on it outside then.
 

Gumby

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tempImagepoJ70p.png1737318572486.jpeg
I can't really remember how it plugs in. This is a pic of the new one (no bearing yet) and the old one (with bearing) what the connector looks like. best I can help with.
 
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