Overheating issues in mountain areas....

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zombiekiller

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Ive had 2 caps go bad. DO NOT replace it with a gates cap. Use an oem ford cap.

Also, check the overflow hoses. I went through 3 of those too.

Disclaimer: I beat the snot out of my truck and have driven it in ambient temps up to 128 F. I look at things like caps and hoses as wear-parts that need to be replaced every so often.


Once you get a good cap & hoses, you're going to need to burp the air out of the system too. ( it takes a while. you'll know that you still have an air bubble if/when you see the ECT temp spike, then suddenly go down.)
 

Booth9999

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OK I've been noticing before when I go up to the mountains that I would see it running hotter and even sometimes the over heat light popped on and once I let off the gas it would lower on its own pretty quick and I'd smell coolant so upon checking it each time it looks like it sprays coolant from the coolant tank cap on top from pressure or idk. But today I was going and its 32 degrees through the pass it was dry so I just went wot passing some cars then shortly after damn light comes on! And this time ***** hot 260f I pulled over popped the hood and was steaming like a chimney from coolant all over the damn motor. I waited a bit started again it starts to climb again on idle to 230 so I let it sit some more reflashed my tune, added some cold water that I had to make it to the gas station which wasn't far away thankfully, got a gallon of coolant and it nearly took it all, shocked how much it sprayed out, the cap seems to be loose though not sure if they all feel like that and again it seems likes it's spraying from the cap since it's wet from there and down. I see people do radiator changes and thermostat changes but still seem to run into overheating time to time. When not in elevation it usually doesn't go past 230 on the hardest driving. Any one else experience this? After putting the coolant and reflashed the tune I just drove it normally at speed limit and it didn't heat up any more the rest of the trip.
I have had it climb to 246 pushing it up the mountain, I think it is the FMIC restricting the airflow over the radiator. I’m going to install the new radiator soon as I find the time but it was definitely considering this summer. I was able to do it on command when it is hot out by just holding it to the floor until it starts to spike. I hope it solves my issues.
 

FordTechOne

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@FordTechOne what kind of fuckery is this? lol

Newer system. The 3.5 uses a degas bottle, which is pressurized by the cooling system when the engine is running. There is no cap on the radiator; it is located on the degas bottle. This is why the degas bottle cap is rated for 21PSI. The advantage to the degas bottle design is that it is higher than the radiator, which helps purge air from the system. The 6.2 uses a radiator cap with a coolant expansion (overflow) tank, which is not pressurized.
 

CoronaRaptor

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Newer system. The 3.5 uses a degas bottle, which is pressurized by the cooling system when the engine is running. There is no cap on the radiator; it is located on the degas bottle. This is why the degas bottle cap is rated for 21PSI. The advantage to the degas bottle design is that it is higher than the radiator, which helps purge air from the system. The 6.2 uses a radiator cap with a coolant expansion (overflow) tank, which is not pressurized.
Thanks for the education, appreciate the explanation.
 

Badgertits

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I have had it climb to 246 pushing it up the mountain, I think it is the FMIC restricting the airflow over the radiator. I’m going to install the new radiator soon as I find the time but it was definitely considering this summer. I was able to do it on command when it is hot out by just holding it to the floor until it starts to spike. I hope it solves my issues.

curious if that solves the issue it is something that stuck out to me when looking into those & seemed like not worth the risk w/ warranty etc
 

Booth9999

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curious if that solves the issue it is something that stuck out to me when looking into those & seemed like not worth the risk w/ warranty etc
Yeah i think it definitely should be done with the upgraded radiator. Runs great except in the hottest climate, she never lost power Even that hot. I even had it start to get hot at low speeds following a slow truck up the mountain so it is definitely a airflow issue or a radiator fluid capacity issue. It’s too cold here for months to see the extreme temps but I’ll have the new trans cooler and the freekaboost radiator in by then. Also going to fab up a custom air diverted to push the air through the rad and not let it go around the sides and bottom. My rubber piece that sat between the rad and the bumper got shredded when I was going too fast after the FMIC install so it is gone now. I think that has to do with my cooling issues.
 
D

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Yeah i think it definitely should be done with the upgraded radiator. Runs great except in the hottest climate, she never lost power Even that hot. I even had it start to get hot at low speeds following a slow truck up the mountain so it is definitely a airflow issue or a radiator fluid capacity issue. It’s too cold here for months to see the extreme temps but I’ll have the new trans cooler and the freekaboost radiator in by then. Also going to fab up a custom air diverted to push the air through the rad and not let it go around the sides and bottom. My rubber piece that sat between the rad and the bumper got shredded when I was going too fast after the FMIC install so it is gone now. I think that has to do with my cooling issues.

Did you install a 170 tstat? I will be installing a FMIC behind the grille. I live in Florida, so I am going to try the tstat first and see if I still need the FR radiator.

The flap you are talking about is just to keep debris and so on from kicking up into the radiator area. It shouldn’t affect aerodynamics. @FordTechOne correct me if I am wrong :)
 

ColoradoBoss

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My truck would overheat under WOT with a BCB tune. I would detune your truck and see if it still does it.
 
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