Outlaw hood mounts and HIDX lights from Alternative Off Road

[iSurvive]

OK shooterAMG, it sounds like you need my extended tips and tricks. I have the VisionX HIDs and they presented the issues you mention.

First of all the holes in the hood mounts are too small for my HID bolts, so I had to use a drill to expand the holes. The bolts are also very long, so I had to drill holes in the cowl directly below the holes in the mount (using a long drill bit and drilling thru the mount hole and into the cowl below). Then comes the washer and nut...

There is only room for the nut and washer period. I used Scotch tape to tape the washer and nut together (just a small piece). Then I use a long thin wrench to push the nut in place and hold it there. It is VERY helpful to have another person hold that wrench in place while you install the light.

Since the area is so tight, with no room to move the wrench, you must rotate the light to screw it down into the washer and nut. This is very difficult because the lock washer is hard to thread. It takes 20-30 full turns of the light to get the nut all the way on. Keep turning the light until the nut is very tight - you may have to slightly move the wrench to get the lights straight while keeping the nut tight.

Honestly I had no idea how people were doing this install. The nut, bolt, washer issue seemed impossible. I did it by myself on the first install, and it took me almost 20 minutes to screw in one light. Then I got my son to help by holding the wrench and keeping the nut in place. I was able to use two hands to screw in the light and keep it straight while turning. Ten times easier!!

You can also add extra washers between the truck frame and the brackets - this raises the brackets higher and gives you more room for the nut. It also raises the lights higher, which some people like since it can reduce the glare on your hood.

Good luck! It may require enough beer to keep you calm, but not enough to impair your skills.



In case I read your post wrong - maybe you are asking about the back bolt on the bracket. I did cut the cowl a little more so I could reach the back bolt with a long extension on my ratchet set. I see no other way to tighten the rear bolt. But I did cut the minimum amount of cowl possible to keep it looking clean and professional.

 

[puddle hunter]

EDIT:
After reading isurvive's post, I may have misunderstood your post. If you're referring to the back hood bolt, then continue reading. However, if you're referring to the bolt for mounting the light to the outlaw mounts, then please read isurvive's post. That pretty much sums up how I did it!

Unfortunately, I didn't use the threaded rods to do this install. I actually removed and reused the hood bolts. I do remember removing more plastic than I had planned, but to be clear, I did not remove any plastic outside the little "cup" where the outlaw mounts come up. You can get to the back bolt this way, with the hood closed. But again, my install was a little different. I don't know if this'll help you get the hardware in place for your install.

My advice, since the hood already shifted on you, is to pop off the hood struts. This'll take tension off the bolts, and allow you to shimmy the hood around for alignment. If I remember correctly, the struts are held on with tension clips, just don't drop them into the engine bay! Hope this helps!

 

[shooterAMG]

EDIT:
After reading isurvive's post, I may have misunderstood your post. If you're referring to the back hood bolt, then continue reading. However, if you're referring to the bolt for mounting the light to the outlaw mounts, then please read isurvive's post. That pretty much sums up how I did it!

Unfortunately, I didn't use the threaded rods to do this install. I actually removed and reused the hood bolts. I do remember removing more plastic than I had planned, but to be clear, I did not remove any plastic outside the little "cup" where the outlaw mounts come up. You can get to the back bolt this way, with the hood closed. But again, my install was a little different. I don't know if this'll help you get the hardware in place for your install.

My advice, since the hood already shifted on you, is to pop off the hood struts. This'll take tension off the bolts, and allow you to shimmy the hood around for alignment. If I remember correctly, the struts are held on with tension clips, just don't drop them into the engine bay! Hope this helps!

Yeah PH, I was talking about the bolts for the lights, but your advice is greatly appreciated. I can close the hood, but it's alignment is off. I'll have to do exactly what you said, provided I can find a neighbor to help. These are a big pain in the ass, but I'm looking forward to the light the HIDX's send. I will say I feel like my Rigid Dullay Spot throws light farther, but as of now I only have 1 light on, and there is a ton of ambient light in my neighborhood, so I can't be fair at this point. James at Alternative did say they should throw a longer beam, so I'll reserve judgement until I have the other light on. I will say I used painters tape to protect all the edges and some of the body panels from swinging ratchets.

---------- Post added at 07:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 AM ----------

OK shooterAMG, it sounds like you need my extended tips and tricks. I have the VisionX HIDs and they presented the issues you mention.

First of all the holes in the hood mounts are too small for my HID bolts, so I had to use a drill to expand the holes. The bolts are also very long, so I had to drill holes in the cowl directly below the holes in the mount (using a long drill bit and drilling thru the mount hole and into the cowl below). Then comes the washer and nut...

There is only room for the nut and washer period. I used Scotch tape to tape the washer and nut together (just a small piece). Then I use a long thin wrench to push the nut in place and hold it there. It is VERY helpful to have another person hold that wrench in place while you install the light.

Since the area is so tight, with no room to move the wrench, you must rotate the light to screw it down into the washer and nut. This is very difficult because the lock washer is hard to thread. It takes 20-30 full turns of the light to get the nut all the way on. Keep turning the light until the nut is very tight - you may have to slightly move the wrench to get the lights straight while keeping the nut tight.

Honestly I had no idea how people were doing this install. The nut, bolt, washer issue seemed impossible. I did it by myself on the first install, and it took me almost 20 minutes to screw in one light. Then I got my son to help by holding the wrench and keeping the nut in place. I was able to use two hands to screw in the light and keep it straight while turning. Ten times easier!!

You can also add extra washers between the truck frame and the brackets - this raises the brackets higher and gives you more room for the nut. It also raises the lights higher, which some people like since it can reduce the glare on your hood.

Good luck! It may require enough beer to keep you calm, but not enough to impair your skills.



In case I read your post wrong - maybe you are asking about the back bolt on the bracket. I did cut the cowl a little more so I could reach the back bolt with a long extension on my ratchet set. I see no other way to tighten the rear bolt. But I did cut the minimum amount of cowl possible to keep it looking clean and professional.

iSurvive, you're post made me feel so much better this morning! Yes, this sucks. I drilled out the mounts, and I drilled a single hole in the cowl for the light post. I tried forever to get the washer, lock washer and nut lined up, but it was a comedy of errors. I finally tried putting the two washers between the light base and the mount and just used the nut underneath. I figure, the lock washer will still provide tension and will hopefully keep the nut from spinning. I might have to get a 11/16 wrench and keep it in the truck if they loosen. And I did the same thing, spin the stupid light around until mostly tight and then snugged up with the wrench, but man, if you want to try a different angle, it's a real PITA.

I'm going wheelin' this weekend, and I was so excited to get these on, I should have been a grown-up and waited until I had help, but that's just not my MO! I'll get the other light on today, and when I have help I'll align the hood. I don't think it's going to hurt anything. I'll clean up the wires when I have time. I need to pack and split wood and get tools and stuff in the bed for our little trip. We're heading to Badlands Offroad Park in Indiana.



Thanks to you and PH for your support. You've really put my mind at ease with my butcher job!

 

[shooterAMG]

Okay, so I totally don't want to steal this thread from the OP, especially since he's been so accommodating, but I have these frickin' lights in. Once I adjusted my expectations for how they should go in, it was much easier. Take a look.









Some advice I would offer to anyone doing this.

-It's okay if the hood shifts. Just remove the struts with a friend and re-align.
-Cut the plastic and be prepared for the light bolt to hit the shroud. Either drill it or force it down like I did in the pic above.
-Take you time and be patient.
-Read this forum, post and ask questions. We're all here for each other.


As you can see from the pics, it's still a little daylight out, so I'll try some night shots. I hope they look as good as PH and I PRAY I don't have to loosen and adjust them!


Thanks again for letting me jump on this thread. And thanks again to Puddle Hunter and iSurvive, James at Alternative Offroad and Outlaw Raptor.

 

[iSurvive]

Nice job on the install. They look great!! When you're ready for the 20" Rigid in the bumper, I can walk you through that as well (or even the 40" upper grill install).

And I totally agree with PH's comment "I did not remove any plastic outside the little "cup" where the outlaw mounts come up". I made a little bit of extra room right next to the Outlaw hood mount, very close the hood mount, then used a ratchet 6" extension rod to tighten the rear bolt.

I used a Dremel for all of my cowl cutting. I used a cutting drill bit for the rough cut, then a sanding bit for the fine tuning. I highly recommend your idea to use painters tape to protect the truck. I touched my hood with the Dremel (just on the bottom edge of the hood where it can't be seen), and only removed some of the outer paint, but I used touch up paint to keep that 1mm area safe from the elements. It was overkill, but I wasn't taking any chances!

 

[jrubin80]

Just adding this in for anyone else doing this exact setup. I did my Outlaw Mounts last nights with the HIDx's. I removed the plastic cowling completely to do the cuts and the install the mounts. It comes off with just a few clips per side, just make sure and reconnect the washer hoses. Made the cuts easier, and no need to worry about the paint. Afterward it slides around the mounts and clips right back in.

 

[iSurvive]

That's a great idea. I came very close to doing the same thing. I wasn't patient enough to figure out exactly how the cowling would come off. I pulled here and there, but figured I might screw up something.

Actually, the plastic cutting was the easiest part of this install. My Dremel was easy to handle and very precise. The cutting was a little uneven, but the sanding tool smoothed the edges out perfectly.

 

[SwampKing]

Has anyone tried upgrading your hood mounted Hid lights from 35 watts to 50 watt bulbs and 55watt ballasts?

 

[iSurvive]

Has anyone tried upgrading your hood mounted Hid lights from 35 watts to 50 watt bulbs and 55watt ballasts?

I was hoping for 50 watt, but they were only available in 35 watt. I think someone told me the 50's would get really hot. Maybe because of the size of the housing??

 

[SwampKing]

Yea, the size housing seems fairly big considering projection housing are smaller taking the heat. I bet we can independently get some 50watt bulbs/ballasts for a simple retro.... Be twice as bright.. Seems like it might be a well worth shot.....