Opinions wanted, i need help deciding.

[jondle]

I disagree with @melvimbe. There are unlimited mods, they just keep getting more and more expensive.

We just went through a first mods post a couple days ago. It is some good info: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/top-ten-mods.71668/#post-1405338

Those wheels look great, but if you break one off-road I would go back to a 17", or 18" if you want bigger rotors. Just depends on how you use your truck.

Good call on mounting the light bar lower. I had mine on the roof for a while and hated it. It lit up the windshield dash, and hood too much. My truck is actually at SVC now having tabs welded to the bumper to move it down.

 

[TO 8217]

Just a general thought, but if you're modding just for the joy of modding (and I'm not knocking that), maybe slow down a little bit? Save some for later? Although there are tons of mods that can be done, it is finite and you'll eventually run out.

Yes i agree with what you are saying here 100%. The things i have done are things i budgeted for and had mostly had planned out. I will not get crazy on this truck like i did my car. The wife already said you are not going to go crazy on this truck like you did on the car so I promised her I wouldn’t do that as there is such diminishing returns on after market tings event though you may purchase the high quality stuff. Typical return is .40 cents on the dollar if you are lucky. I’m only buying things on for this truck that are easily removable and i can sell on the side.








I ordered this car and put an additional 60k in it on top of the cost of the car. I only ended up putting about 1000 miles on it and just sold it. I try to only buy things that hold there value well for resale but i got really out of hand with the car. It was fast though 0-60 2.74 on a v-box and all the suspension and brake upgrades made it perform just like a GT3 RS.

 

[Remoat]

I wish they wouldve put A pillar spotlights in our trucks.

 

[Drswiger]

So the Rigid 360 series with backlight, Im assuming the lights get wired to two separate up fitter switches? A common ground and the red wire to one switch for light and white wire to separate up fitter for backlighting?
Im still not sure about the look but kinda growing on me. Maybe the 4 inch though. Also, what about wind noise?

 

[TO 8217]

So the Rigid 360 series with backlight, Im assuming the lights get wired to two separate up fitter switches? A common ground and the red wire to one switch for light and white wire to separate up fitter for backlighting?
Im still not sure about the look but kinda growing on me. Maybe the 4 inch though. Also, what about wind noise?

I did follow up with some people regarding wind noise and was told absolutely Zero. I debated 4 vs. 6 and originally was doing the D series pro’s which is 3x3. The guy at Rigid told me the out put is so much better with the 6” and actually fits perfect.

Wiring : back lighting wire to up fitter switch 6 lowest amp 5.
Power (red) to up fitter switch 2 and then ground

For me: #1 RDS SR 40” light bar : up fitter switch 1 with power off of battery due to out put amps needed.
2. 360 pros up fitter switch 2 and 6 for back light.
3. D series pro SAE fog up fitter 3
4. D series pro driving and Spot up fitter 4

Up fitter 5 is blank at the moment.

 

[smurfslayer]

Pictures.
or it never happened.

 

[TO 8217]

Pictures.
or it never happened.

Hahaha i hope to have that for you guys by next weekend. All the parts and lights are sitting on the counter, i am just waiting on the light bar mounting bracket.



I also order these D series and going to so some fabricating with the Lowe grille opening and this will finish things out nicely IMO. Over kill? probably.


I am also have this discussion going on over in the lighting forum with some guys.

 

[TO 8217]

 

[smurfslayer]

Pictures.
So it might happen.

;-)

It’s good to have a plan.